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How do you replace substrate that has expired in your shrimp tanks?

11K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  xenxes  
#1 ·
I'm thinking that once my substrate "expires" as in doesn't lower pH to the levels I need it to be at as efficiently+effectively. How do I do to replace it with new substrate?

(I use Netlea soil which is going to expire in ~1 year according to http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/substrate.html)

Because I'm thinking... I'll have shrimp in the tank and if I just scoop up the old substrate that gunky stuff will blow everywhere and maybe cause an ammonia spike. And putting in the new substrate is going to cause a mess in the water (making it murky), and I might accidentally bury shrimplets.

What do you guys do when your substrate doesn't work its magic anymore and you need to change it? What is your most safe and most efficient+effective method?

here is my possible solution in which I've been thinking of:

I'm was thinking about getting a breeder box in the future JUST to selectively breed but then I thought...

if I fill the breeder box with new pH lowering substrate would it suffice in making my tank maintain a low pH?

Although my tank is 30gals I'm thinking that if I make the water I use for my WCs at a low pH... my ideal low pH of the tank will remain the same and that the small size of the breeder box will be able to lower the pH just fine (I'll be using RO water too so I don't think I would need an insane amount of substrate to do the job)

Anyways, thanks for reading and feedback is appreciated :)
 
#6 ·
I do have my old 10 gallon still... So I guess I'll use that as a temporary home when I do replace the old substrate in the future with the new.

I guess there is no way to do it the lazy way lol. I just hope I net 95% of the shrimp out and don't miss any. And I don't have an UGF so I guess it isn't all too bad.

Thanks for the replies :)
 
#9 ·
Those work best if you starve your shrimp for a while, then bait with something really tasty like bloodworm or something they go nuts for.

Also, don't try that with tiger shrimp, they're smart and don't fall for it. Confirmed by many. lol. My tigers, got together in a little huddle, picked out the smallest, strongest shrimp and sent it in to get food and bring it out. Other bottle traps had trapped most of the shrimp, but the tigers were all sitting outside the bottle eating all the food I put in.

In reality though, it's not going to get 100%, or the babies usually, so it's still net time. No easy way to do it. Start taking out decorations, moss, etc, shaking well and putting into a container with tank water for stow-a-way babies, then sit there and watch and wait and net and watch and wait and net. I'm in the process of moving my PFR's over and I've done about 70 in the past 2 days and there is still lots to go. Tried the bottle trap, they weren't biting tonight and got about 30 snails though. lol. There is still probably another 50+ to go, and then who knows how many babies. I just have loose moss in that tank too, so the moss is probably full of them. One of the perils of the job, lol. Lots of time netting to move a population.
 
#8 · (Edited)
First, you just started your tank and don't have any shrimp yet, don't worry about going down that route till you actually have shrimp in there for a start and it will be AT LEAST a year with Netlea. My oldest Netlea is 18 months and still going strong. I moved some from one tank, so it's been rinsed and I topped it with new soil just a little while ago, added in UGF, and still going good, not breaking down or anything.

APB, Netlea leeches ammonia for a good 1-2 months, so you can't just add the shrimp back the same day. When you get to the stage, 1-2 years+ down the road, you can get some new soil, put it in panty hose (easier to move around) and just put it in the 10gal, throw a sponge filter in and let it leech till ammonia is 0 (I just cycled my last bag this way). Then you can either cap off your existing substrate (not a great idea), or net the shrimp out, remove the old soil, add the new soil, refill (can keep some of your water even since it's a 40gal, that's a lot of RO plus the shrimp will be used to it) and then put the shrimp back in as APB said, you just need to cycle and let the ammonia leech first in another tank, bucket, whatever. You can take out small amounts of your old soil (with a gravel vac cause it's going to be full of crap and add new amounts back in, bit by bit, lots of ways to do it with the shrimp in, but really, a good breakdown every year or two is good in the long run just to get some of the mulm out, rinse off driftwood and other stuff a bit, etc. It's part of the hobby. lol.

First though, get some shrimp and then worry about the soil road when you get there. In 2 years, which I think netlea should last 1.5-2yr + (ignore the site that says 1 year), you may either have 9 more shrimp tanks setup or be at the point to get out of the hobby anyways and not bother.

Not trying to sound mean about it and sorry if it came off that way, just start with your shrimp and get them happy and worry about other stuff later. lol.
 
#10 ·
Don't worry you didn't come off as mean at all lol. Your advice is always awesome for me :)

and I was just thinking far down the line from now because I tried to ask the petstore from SQ1 for CRS/CBS for 2 months now but they haven't gotten them on their order sheet... so I just started planning for the future lol

I'm going to call Big Al's tomorrow and ask when they are going to restock on CRS and try ask them to reserve 10 or 13 of them for me. Because last time I checked they only had like 2 CRS in the tank without any white on them (literally clear). So that was why I aimmed towards the petstore in SQ1 for CRS.

I shall make getting CRS my main priority now then! thanks for keeping me on track lol
 
#20 ·
Well... another reason to use dirt. ;)

And as for additives, I don't mean water dosing, I mean something that lasts many months, like running spaghnum moss in your filter box, effectively gets it down to the 6 range.

Or for buffering up, use calcium sand or crushed corals.

I think Liam means gradual pH range outside of the shrimps' tolerance, eventually leads to shrimp deaths.
 
#22 ·
Using peat or coral is way more work keeping pH at 6.5 using an aquasoil. Coral disintigrates after a while making it very difficult to rely on the amoubt you have to adjust, then what? Do you add some peat AND coral? It's a huge hassle. Also, coral adds hardness to the water as well, raising gh and kh. Peat floods the tank with tannic acid, and when the tannins are removed, some of the pH buffering is also removed.

It's way more work than its worth to try to use these things over just replacing your substrate every year or two.

And when I mentioned your shrimp start dying, its from a change in pH, hardness and a release of stored toxins and nutrients that the high CEC substrates release when spent.
 
#25 ·
Really? I got these long fiber spaghnum mosses and they buffer down to 6.4 (tap at 7). Been running some in a quarantine tank for a couple weeks, but just like the substrate they have an expiration. I just can't imagine breaking down a tank every year and redo the substrate, guess I can't stray too far from pH 7 shrimp.