wow great article about testing for leaks

 

Please add a section for single stage regulators too.

 

Step 1: get a dual stage

lol jk

 

Step 1.
A. Regulator handle completely loose(counter clockwise).
B. Connect the regulator to the co2 tank, make sure the connection is secured.
C. Turn on the CO2 tank release handle slowly, CO2 inject into regulator, the HP gauge reading should be at 800 psi.
D. Shut the CO2 tank release handle, now the reading on the HP gauge should be 800 psi also.
E. Wait 6 hours, if the reading is the same, first stage is good, go to second step.

I performanced step 1 test and it is normal (800 psi). However, when I got back from a vaction (4 days) it dropped to 0 psi. The Co2 tank was in the off position. Is this normal?

 

If the tank is off, the gauge will very slowly drop to zero after a few days.

 

make sure the connection is tight, I have the same PSI reading for 3 days after CO2 tank close.

 

What if, my low repressure gauge is drop down to 0 psi also. I'm using the burket solenoid and it is unplugged. I try the soapy water method and appears no leak.

Anybody test out to see if:

-Co2 tank is off for 3+ days shown 800+psi high pressure gauge ad 20 psi low gauge before it is turned off.
- unplugged solenoid

 

I use clippard Mouse solenoid, it is Buna-N internal seal, not the o-ring

 

I just re-tighten everything and leave it off for 3 days to see if it will drop back to 0 psi. So far the reading is 900 psi and other gauge is 24 psi. So far, so good (already been an hour).

 

updated

 

Leak Check

How do you check if a used regulator is good or bad without any fittings attach to it yet? (No solenoid, no metering valve, no brass/ stainless steel fittings, Nothing!).

This is particularly when someone buys a used regulator on e-b-a-y that has not been tested to be working or not. So, it can be returned within time period specified by the seller.

 

How do you check if a used regulator is good or bad without any fittings attach to it yet? (No solenoid, no metering valve, no brass/ stainless steel fittings, Nothing!).

This is particularly when someone buys a used regulator in e-b-a-y that has not been tested to be working or not. So, it can be returned within time period specified by the seller.

You at least need CO2 coming into the regulator to test it. Attach the regulator to the CO2 tank. Makes sure the working pressure is reading 0 psi. The tank pressure should read 800 psi. Then, close the CO2 tank valve. The tank pressure should still be reading 800 psi. If after couple of days and the pressure is still reading 800 psi, you have no leaks from the regulator to the CO2 tank.

 

You would still need to test the seats and diaphragms.

After you close the tank valve, just turn the knob real quickly and close it again to see if it regulates the pressure.

Then set it at about 30psi, and hold your thumb strongly against the output and see if the LP chamber is leaking.

Then, if it is a dual stage, set the psi to about 5, and let all the air empty out of the regulator. This will act as a mini end-of-tank-dump. If the working pressure stays at exactly 5psi until it empties, both seats and diaphragms are indeed working.

A cheap needle valve or even a welding on-off valve would greatly help this experiment. And usually, a reg will come with the on-off valve.

 

CO2 is toxic in higher concentrations: 1% (10,000 ppm) will make some people feel drowsy.[7] Concentrations of 7% to 10% cause dizziness, headache, visual and hearing dysfunction, and unconsciousness within a few minutes to an hour

---make sure your house ventilation is good, or your system is completely bullet proof.


This leak check is also a function check for Double stage Regulator.
(spray soap water test only for the reachable connection ports, if leaking is inside the regulator, soap water test is useless.
also, someone suggest dipping the whole system in water to test leak, don't even think about it, it is suicide if solenoid is 120V, or you will ruin the solenoid.)

Step 1.
A. Regulator handle completely loose(counter clockwise).
B. Connect the regulator to the co2 tank, make sure the connection is secured.
C. Turn on the CO2 tank release handle slowly, CO2 inject into regulator, the HP gauge reading should be at 800 psi.
D. Shut the CO2 tank release handle, now the reading on the HP gauge should be 800 psi also.
E. Wait 6 hours, if the reading is the same, first stage is good, go to second step.

If the psi lower but the tank--regulator(soap water test), CGA 320 nipple--regulator(soap water test) and HP gauge--regulator(soap water test) connection ports are 100% no leak, your regulator is toasted--the leaking is inside(leaking HP gauge, punched diaphragm, diaphragm seal broken, or the poppet valve between the first stage and second stage chambers is not completely sealed.)

Step 2.
continue from step one if success, now you have 800 psi of co2 isolated in the first stage chamber.
A. needle valve open.
B. Solenoid valve power off(shut).
C. Turn the regulator handle clockwise to charge the second stage chamber, fill to the regulator default outlet maximum.
D. Turn the regulator handle counter clockwise(completely loose).
E. Release the CO2 in the first stage chamber by turning loose the regulator-Tank connection screw(make sure the co2 tank is closed before you do this).
Now you have CO2 isolated in the second stage chamber.
F. Wait for 5-10 minutes(to ease the second stage diaphragm elastic issue, psi may drop right after the regulator handle turn loose, then it will stay), record the LP gauge psi reading.
G. Wait for 6 hours, if the new psi reading is within 1/8+ difference of original reading, go to step 3

If the psi lower a lot after 6 hours, redo step 2, soap water test on every reachable connection port(LP gauge--regulator, regulator--fittings, fittings--solenoid)
if leaking found, fix it

redo step 2.
no leak, go to step 3

if still leak.
Take out the solenoid, seal the outlet port of the regulator(make sure the sealed port has no leak)
redo step 2 without the solenoid.
if no leak, solenoid valve has issue.
if leaking still, regulator toasted.(similar problems as mentioned in step one)


Step 3.
A. connect the regulator back to the co2 tank, charge both stage charmbers(turn on the co2 tank release handle then the regulator handle, outlet psi set to your desire psi).
B. Turn on the solenoid valve.
C. Turn off the needle valve, soap water test, between the ports of solenoid and the needle valve.
D. Turn on the needle valve, soap water test for rest of the hose/NPT/hose barb connections.
E. if leaking found, fix it.

leak test and regulator functional check complete.

Nice little write up. I cant imagine how many people have been frustrated/enraged when after running allover creation to swap/refill their co2 cylinder and hooking it up to find it completely empty a couple of days or hours later. I have done this more times then I like to admit and I really cannot think of any (in the whole scheme of things) not too serious issue that is more irritating.

Step 1: get a dual stage

lol jk

I have said this so many times its not funny. I wish everyone would just get a nice used DSR to start. The equipment forum would be much less posted in because members would very likely have quite a bit less trouble with a good used DSR than with even a brand new SSR.

If there is no leaks, it shouldn't.

100% correct.

 

On a side note/question. Is there any maintenance that needs to be preformed like lubricating/cleaning our DSR's at any point in time or any certain interval?

I have never heard of anything that needed to be done so I doubt there is but just to put it out there.

 

take out the relief valves, and seal the port with a 1/4" male npt plug, and test it again.


the relief valve, I am not sure what is the problem, may be the pressure setting is low.

 

My Victor VTS450 passed with flying colors, but the next day after I had started using it for over 24 hours, the pressure relief valve started popping off all the time. I just plugged it for now with a 1/4" plug and all is well.

 

So, its the relief valve. Do you have the same area where the pressure is coming out (from photos)?

I was surprised because both of them has the same issue.
Thanks for the input.

 

I just found a similar issue on this thread.


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/83635-co2-regulator-pressure-relief-valve.html

 

Yeah it was coming out of your fig #2. Unless the house catches fire, I don't think I have to worry about my 20# CO2 tank exceeding 3000 psi regulator limit and then it might be helpful if it did explode.

 

Steve, the relief valve doesn't protect your inlet pressure from exceeding 3000, it keeps the pressure after the first seat from going above the middle pressure, in your case, 300psi.

Hern, If the actual cap on the relief valve were leaking, that would mean the 1st stage seat is broken, not lowering the pressure. That is how you quickly tell if your regulator's first stage is broken, (and it would work just like a single stage regulator, but possibly break the components on the second stage).

However, if your valve is leaking at the threads it is simply not sealed. There may be nothing wrong with any of it. Just take out those relief valves, clean off the threads, and use some good old pipe thread sealant on them, and then screw them back in tightly. It doesn't look like there is anything sealing those connections where the relief valves are. Whoever previously owned them was ignorant/uninformed. You need some kind of pipe thread sealant to seal all pipe thread connections. That should solve your problem. Hope that helps, Hern.

 

I have plenty of Oatey pipe sealant. I would try that and thanks for your input.

-Herns

 

This has been very, very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to go through it step by step. Very much appreciated!

 

On the topic of leaks, how do you prevent leaks where the tubing connects to the check valve? I think I need a check valve with barbs for a better seal.

 

I had not seen this topic but it brings up some questions that I had not thought about. I'm new to CO so the answer may be obvious to others.
Looking at the pictures, the leak at three does just look like the threads are not sealed well but I question the pressure relief valve. This just looks like a fitting with a plug in the end. Is it in fact a relief valve that works in some way I don't see?
Any info?

 

Hi,

I'm at the step 2 currently. In the morning I had low pressure set to approximattely 98-99 psi. 10 hours later it dropped to around 92 psi.

Is this OK or bad?

 

A 6-7 drop in psi usually just means you have a leak in the low pressure side somewhere. Check the gauges and any ports that could leak.

 

I am a little confused with the end of step 2. Instructions state
"G. Wait for 6 hours, if the new psi reading is within 1/8+ difference of original reading, go to step 3 If the psi lower a lot after 6 hours..."

I completed step 2 and after 12 hours my low pressure gauge dropped 3/4 to 1 psi (is this considered a lot)? Also the temperature got colder by 20° and ambient air temperature has been near 40° during test . Is this acceptable or is there a leak? Thanks

 

Original:
G. Wait for 6 hours, if the new psi reading is within 1/8+ difference of original reading, go to step 3


Correction:
G. Wait for 6 hours, if the change of new psi reading is within 1/8+ difference of original reading, go to step 3

 

Sorry i did not give enough detail. What i meant to say was my low pressure gauge dropped from 15 psi to 14.25 psi in 12 hours. Is this acceptable?

 

That is fine.

You only lost 14.25/15 = 0.95%, so a negligible amount.

 

Thanks for another helpful thread.

Any way to do step 1 with a paintball canister (since there is no shut off valve)?

 

Without an ASA shutoff valve, it will be impossible.