Awesome! Following along to see what you cook up!

Next Step: Install a GFCI Outlet where the aquarium will be placed.

If I remember correctly, you can install the GFCI upstream on a circuit and have the outlets downstream protected. Might make it easier to reset if it trips or goes bad. I feel like a contortionist trying to plug something in behind my take, I couldnt imagine having to swap out the outlet.

 

Yeah, and since my left arm has reduced usage, I may even make a small porthole in the lower half of the cabinet so I can reset without too much issue. Thanks for the tip @Goodwood

Thanks, I am looking forward to getting things in gear, the next few months until the tank and stand arrive will give me time to accomplish tasks and pickup materials/equipment so that I can start fairly early.

Though I am waiting for the stand to be assembled to decide about Sump. Interior dimensions will be dictating what I do. I know someone that builds acrylic sumps, they are not the prettiest but I am looking for functionality so I may go down that route. Customize where needed.

Gary

 

Yeah, and since my left arm has reduced usage, I may even make a small porthole in the lower half of the cabinet so I can reset without too much issue. Thanks for the tip @Goodwood

Thanks, I am looking forward to getting things in gear, the next few months until the tank and stand arrive will give me time to accomplish tasks and pickup materials/equipment so that I can start fairly early.

Though I am waiting for the stand to be assembled to decide about Sump. Interior dimensions will be dictating what I do. I know someone that builds acrylic sumps, they are not the prettiest but I am looking for functionality so I may go down that route. Customize where needed.

Gary

Freshwater sumps should just be an open tank with no dividers. A lot of dedicated sumps will have LOTs of dividers because they are built for saltwater people that need specific things like water in one chamber to ALWAYS be a specific height so their protein skimmer will work. Or they need a chamber dedicated as a refugium growing macro algae, or they need a chamber for their filter stocks, or they need a spot for a roller mat, etc etc.

Freshwater is easier. We don't need the water to be at a specific height, we just need some foam walls as debris collection and open space for things like heaters, bags of carbon (if you want any) etc. Somewhere in there a spot for the pump. This is perfect for an aqueon aquarium purchased on sale.

 

I have to seriously research which will be the best approach for what I want.

Though I agree that the sheer simplicity and still providing functionality with a "baffleless system" will go a long way in the end. Ease of maintenance is a huge factor for me while maintaining proper water depth for the heaters/return pump would factor in.

Poret Sponges do make excellent baffles and providing filtration/cleaning ability at the same time.

Gary

 

I have to seriously research which will be the best approach for what I want.

Though I agree that the sheer simplicity and still providing functionality with a "baffleless system" will go a long way in the end. Ease of maintenance is a huge factor for me while maintaining proper water depth for the heaters/return pump would factor in.

Poret Sponges do make excellent baffles and providing filtration/cleaning ability at the same time.

Gary

It's actually pretty hard to run a sump dry with how we run our tanks. In a saltwater system that might go months or years between water changes, it's pretty easy to forget to refill the auto top-off and have your sump run dry. If you are doing water changes once a week or even once a month, it's essentially impossible to run a sump dry if it's a reasonable amount of water in there to begin with. The big advantage though to not having baffles is that such a sump is silent whereas any sump with baffles is going to be noisy 100% of the time.

 

Noise will play a huge factor since this will be in my living room. Good suggestions and points. I would be monitoring the sump/aquarium at all the times anyway (the wonderful world of OCD).

Once I have the interior dimensions of the cabinet, then I will go and find an appropriate aquarium to serve as a sump. Hoping that I can squeeze in a 40GAL Breeder.

These are amazing tanks on their own, I have also seen many used as sumps as well (which I should have enough room with just a bit of play, since 20 X 20 is essentially 7/8" X 7/8") and a 40GAL breeder is 18" wide.

Gary

 

My thoughts at least 2 baffles just before the return pump to eliminate surface scum build up in the sump. I have seen pictures and while "out of sight out of mind", it only seems to fair to combat this in the area as well.

Gary

 

I have (as my oldest daughter calls it) "Vulcan hearing" so for me, quiet as quiet can be will be a major factor.

Noise levels are a personal thing. Though I am going to be designing smart, using flexible hosing when I can to help eliminate vibrations and when I cannot, padding to muffle or distribute any vibration noise that I may or may not (sometimes I swear I am imagining the noise) hear.

As for the sump, definitely just the two baffles before the return pump. Gets rid of surface scum, but the rest will be open giving me room for the heaters and any other features I wish to add at a later date.

Going to place an order for two of those giant suction cups (good call @minorhero) and 5 bulkheads today.

Gary

 

Eventually I figured out that its a combination of 1) some people's fish rooms are noisy places and they can't tell what is causing all the racket, and 2) some people have different tolerances for noise and are willing to overlook something if its quiet and then describe it as 'silent' to others.

I am very aware of different preceptions to noise and how background noise can alter that perception. I too am a stickler for noise and I cannot hear the water falling over the baffles even with my head inside the stand. I have matala material and the water level between the two sections is within an inch at normal water levels. The only thing I can hear is the very faint hum of my DC return pump.

Now there are the spiffy stainless steel canister filters with dc pumps and those things are silent. If I didn't own the fluval I would buy one in an instant, but I can't justify several hundred dollars to replace something already working.

This stainless canisters are pretty slick, if I ever do an open stand, I will highly consider one of those.

The next nosiest piece of equipment I have are the 2 usb fans cooling my newt tanks. I've gone through about a dozen different fans at this point trying to find a silent fan, or at least a very very quiet fan. So far... I have not succeeded. I have a couple which are the best I've found... but certainly nothing that met my standards. And after that.... there is no after that, because everything else I own is silent and I constantly shake my fist at the 3 things that are not

Its amazing how loud fans can be. Old men yelling at clouds

 

What a cool project! I'm looking forward to your updates! Perhaps most of all for the sump. That probably sounds odd, but I love sumps! I use them on any tank where it is feasible to do so. Marine, freshwater, paludarium, whatever. Sumps are the best! I even have a buddy who is a retired engineer and we design sump layouts for various tanks as entertainment. It's that bad.

It sounds like you are maybe doing a DIY sump. I really like those! It allows you to tailor your sump to your needs for a specific display. I mean, the customizable nature of sumps is one of their big advantages! What are your aims with this sump? For instance, in a tank with things like African cichlids, nutrient export can be a big deal (assuming no AWC system), and so a moss or hornwort refugium can be really useful. I assume you are going to do a planted tank (given the forum) and so a fuge would be antithetical to your goals. Things like dosing, injecting, various water changes and auto top offs can all be hidden in the sump. Water polishing too - don't discount the power of filter socks! And of course bioreaction or chemical media can all be placed in a well designed sump. All depends on your goals for it.

It seems like sound is one big concern of yours, so I am glad to see you'll be drilled for a BA drain system. Most overflows can't handle the three drain pines needed, so that already puts you on the right path!

I'm glad to see you are using a couple baffles too. Never go bafflleless! As I am sure you know, the biggest drawback of an under-tank sump (as opposed to an AIO which is really just a sump at level with the display) is the potential for flooding. It means you want to calculate the volume of the sump to accomidate the water as it drains from the display. Most people do that. The folks who think avoiding solid baffles is is a good plan forget that wiers can get clogged (especially with plants!) and then they can flood the display tank when the volume that can be pumped up is too great. In the end, you want to have your return section be sized so it can deal with the drain water from the display when the regturn pump(s) is off, and so that if the weir gets clogged you can't accidently flood the display.

Sorry. This was probably too much. I just enjoy sump design and get a little excited. I'll stop. Again, I look forward to your updates!

 

LOL, thanks. Will admit, I am looking forward to this type of setup. Something tells me, from here on in, I will never go back to HOB or Canister filters, also that I plan to keep only one aquarium (my time is very limited sometimes).

Yes, there is much to digest, but I will glean over your response in more depth later.

Gary

 

A response and an Initial Plumbing Plan...

@onlygenuscaps :

• Yes it will be a DIY Sump. I prefer to have things tailored to my needs rather than trying to retrofit something already built. Often it is easier to build from scratch.
• Of course planted tank. Is there any other type? (Mind you, I do miss my Lake Tang themed aquarium I had many many years ago and the Cyps that I had, those were super cool fish)
• I do plan some automation in regards to dosing. Water changes I will still do manually as during maintenance it gives one time to truly study the tank. I am a bit old school in certain areas
• At least 2 Baffles. While I will agree with @minorhero in regards to really not necessary, surface film and possible overflow is still a big concern of mine. Especially since I have spent the last three years renovating my home. The Baffles most likely will be at least 1/4 of the sump where the return Pump and CO2 Reactor will reside.
• Keeping the weir clear and free will be a major item on my list to ensure that flow is not being obstructed.
• Thanks for chiming and following, updates may be sparse until the tank arrives, then the fun begins...

Plumbing Plan

I am looking at purchasing the following;

2 X Bulkhead 1/2" Thread/Slip (black)
3 X Bulkhead 1/2" Slip/Slip (black)
1 X Spears Gate Valve - 1/2 inch Slip x Slip
3 X Insert Barb Fitting - 1/2" Slip x 1/2" Insert (white or grey)
2 X Loc-Line 1/2 inch Ball Socket x NPT Connector
2 X Loc-Line 1/2 inch Ball Socket Y

..and my reasoning;

2 X Bulkhead 1/2" Thread./Slip (Black) - Both are for the return holes. This way, I can thread in the Loc-Line Ball Socket
3 X Bulkhead 1/2" Slip/Slip - For the Bean Animal plumbing
1 X Spears Gate Valve - 1/2 inch Slip X Slip - This for obviously fine tuning the primary drain on the Bean Animal
3 X Insert Barb Fitting - 1/2" Slip X 1/2" Insert - Since my Overflow is the full height of the tank, most of the plumbing will be in the overflow, the barbs will be placed directly at the bottom of two of the bulkheads (and bottom of the Gate Valve for the Primary Drain). I plan to use hosing to help eliminate noise and vibration. Also, making maintenance easier, simply disconnect the hosing and clear a blockage if necessary.
2 X Loc-Line 1/2 inch Ball Socket X NPT Connector - So I can thread in the Loc-Line Socket connector directly into the tank. Once again, ease of maintenance in mind
2 X Loc-Line 1/2 inch Ball Socket Y - The returns on each side will have two nozzles a piece, adjustable in any direction to ensure that I maximize and customize flow relatively easy.

I have not pulled the trigger on purchasing yet, was hoping for comments or pointers I am walking down the right path.

Thanks,
Gary

 

I do miss my Lake Tang themed aquarium I had many many years ago and the Cyps that I had, those were super cool fish

Yes, I loved my Cyps too! I may get some again some day. I tried to do them with Julies in the same tank, but the Julues kept eating the Cyp babies.

Water changes I will still do manually as during maintenance it gives one time to truly study the tank. I am a bit old school in certain areas

Fair enough! I AWC at all times in all places. I'm lazy! And I find I spend more time watching the tank when it doesn't feel like a water-lugging burden hanging over my head constantly. Plus lazy! 🤪

surface film and possible overflow is still a big concern of mine.

You can help the surface film a ton with filter socks. They tend to grab oils really well! Plus they polish the water better than anything short of a DE filter.

The overflow potential can be serious. I've seen some really bad damage from people using permeable baffles. When things go bad with that, they go really bad! It's lower likelihood than a sump flood, but usually involves much more water!

Oh and I forgot to mention, the baffles don't need to be noisy. You just angle them in toward the upstream flow! Silent. 🥷

return Pump and CO2 Reactor will reside

That's exactly the best spot to put the CO2! Chambers for everything!

updates may be sparse until the tank arrives

All my projects are slow burns. I get it!

That's a solid plumbing list! I love Loc-Line for returns too! One thought, and I'm not sure what you are going for in terms of looks, so I could be way off. But, if you are looking for good surface agitation to enhance shimmer, I have found the random flow generator nozzles to be really nice. That might not be the thing you are looking for, but I thought I'd point it out.

This is going to be cool to watch come together!

 

Yes, I loved my Cyps too! I may get some again some day. I tried to do them with Julies in the same tank, but the Julues kept eating the Cyp babies.

I had an over abundance of Cyps, Julies and Shellies so if a few of either were predated on, I would honestly have no idea. I did have though, 4 Carpet Surfing Cyps unfortunately (even with a strong solid lid and the gap at the back blocked with eggcrate).

Out of them all, the Cyps were my favorite. I had a large (and I mean large) colony of C.leptosoma Utinta. These were stunning fish, I did promise myself, the next time I wanted to do something similar it would be these again and Shellies, that's it. Julies, while prolific breeders as well, were real jerks to everyone else.

Fair enough! I AWC at all times in all places. I'm lazy! And I find I spend more time watching the tank when it doesn't feel like a water-lugging burden hanging over my head constantly. Plus lazy! 🤪

I do not mind. I actually look forward to it, for me, its peaceful and somewhat therapeutic. Though the dosing will be automatic. For such a large tank, mixing powdered ferts would make more sense though I will have a supply of liquid on hand (I have a 1 Gallon Bottle of Thrive+ still here, not even opened).

You can help the surface film a ton with filter socks. They tend to grab oils really well! Plus they polish the water better than anything short of a DE filter

Not a fan of filter socks. But good to know.

Oh and I forgot to mention, the baffles don't need to be noisy. You just angle them in toward the upstream flow! Silent.

Done proper I think regular baffles (straight vertical) should not be either. But that is an interesting idea to place them on an incline towards the upstream flow. Do you have any pictures/videos of this in action? Would be interesting to see.

That's exactly the best spot to put the CO2! Chambers for everything!

There is going to be one large main area and the baffles before the return pump/CO2 Reactor area. Baffles are going to serve three purposes;

• Skim the surface
• Keep the Pump/Reactor area clear of waste/junk
• define a good level for the return pump to operate

That's a solid plumbing list! I love Loc-Line for returns too! One thought, and I'm not sure what you are going for in terms of looks, so I could be way off. But, if you are looking for good surface agitation to enhance shimmer, I have found the random flow generator nozzles to be really nice. That might not be the thing you are looking for, but I thought I'd point it out.

Thanks, I am posting the list though to see if there is anything that could be changed but from your response, that is one vote for good.

Planted Tanks and a lot of surface agitation are not good bedfellows. While I do plan on having surface agitation, it will not be as intense as if it was just fish. I plan on having one nozzle pointing towards the surface at all times and the other angled to bounce of the nearest wall.

This of course, is subject to change and adjustment. Having the two adjustable nozzles (thinking of the 2" Flare) will help with help with customizing and optimizing the flow in the entire tank.

As for shimmer, in my living room, I think the novelty will wear off. The lights I am toying with purchasing will not produce shimmer.

Thanks,
Gary

 

A more items to my plumbing plan...

1 X PVC Tee Schedule 40 - 1/2" (black) (Slip) (AquariumDepot)
1 X 1/2″ PVC End Cap (Slip) (black) (AquariumDepot)
2 X 47" PVC Pipe Schedule 40 - 1/2" (black) (AquariumDepot)

1 X 1/2" x 46" Red Schedule 40 Pipe (Bulk Reef Supply) (for Emergency Drain)

This is for assembling the Bean Animal, though I still need more parts (piece of airline and a flow adjuster for the Secondary standpipe). I plan to keep the emergency drain PVC pipe (and vinyl tubing if I can find it) red for the whole intent of visibility.

Gary

 

You actually don't need the airline tubing. I know the original bean animal has it but no one really makes it like that anymore. Having the full siphon and the durso combined is plenty good enough.

 

Do people still at least drill a small hole into the top of the Durso Standpipe?

Gary

 

Do people still at least drill a small hole into the top of the Durso Standpipe?

Gary

Yes, that's what makes it a durso vs a full siphon.

 

Exactly. Good to know, this will save me some hassle looking for a tiny bit of air line and a valve. A small hole in the cap and the world is a better place. Thanks!

Gary

 

The last few days I was introduced to a Stockman Standpipe. I prefer this design over the Durso so I am switching the secondary drain from a Durso Standpipe to a Stockman Standpipe.

For those that do not know what a Stockman Standpipe is..

Easier to make as well, with less parts involved.

Gary

 

Nothing new to report. I have not ordered the plumbing for the overflow and tank returns yet due to finalizing this is what I want to do. Nothing is worse than ordering something only to have something change.

Updates when available.

Gary

 

Ordered Today

• 4 X Loc-Line 1/2" Ball Socket Nozzle (may eventually upgrade these to the VCA Random Flow Nozzles) (Black)
• 4 X Loc-Line 1/2" Ball Socket Flexible Tube (6" Long) (Black)
• 2 X Loc-Line 1/2" Ball Socket (Black)
• 2 X Loc-Line 1/2" Ball Socket (MPT Connector) (Black)
• 2 X Bulkhead 1/2" FPT/Slip (Black)

With shipping and taxes the total came to $104.87 CAD, Bringing the project total so far up to $3,378.30 CAD.

Obviously going to need some Teflon tape but this is a start. The reason I chose the Round Nozzle was a matter of simple physics... the flares would reduce the flow, while the rounds would act as jets maximizing my flow.

Eventually I may replace these with the VCA Random Flow Nozzles (this is the great thing about Loc-Line, the ease of modifying) after doing more research on these. If anyone is using these I would love to hear how well (or bad) they work for you.

Gary

 

Love the random flow nozzles. Mine are not made by VCA but rather from some random folks that are 3d printing them and selling them on Etsy. Even VCA uses 3d printers near as I can tell so there is no getting around that aspect. I would honestly not bother with any other kind of loc-line nozzle.

 

Well, parts are already ordered, but that is the beauty of Loc-Line, snap out, snap in.

Yeah, more and more I am thinking that these would be a big benefit and yes, the random flow ones seem to make the most sense and benefit. Etsy you say. I will take a look.

Gary

 

1 X Teflon Tape @ $3.10 CAD, bringing the project total to $3,381.40 CAD.

I am hunting for 1/2" PVC End Caps that come in Black.

Seems if I want White or Gray I have a choice, but I find it weird that Black is not offered as well. Once again, trying to stick with Canadian Retailers, so if anyone knows where I can order from here in Canada I would appreciate the tip.

Gary

 

Thanks Goodwood, and yes, my outlets will be submerged. Very interesting concept and it seems more and more these are the way to go.

Gary

 

The output plumbing components arrived on Wednesday from Reefsuppies.ca. I inspected all the parts, placed them back in the bag and will rinse them off and clean them before final assembly.

While I am on the topic of plumbing parts...

I have found free STL files (for 3D Printing) for 1/2" RFG (Random Flow Generator) Nozzles with 1/2" Loc-Line Socket and a 1/2" End Cap (Sched.40). I am going to apply the methodology, "if I cannot find it, I will print it". Looking for a 1/2" Slip Strainer (Sched.40) model now.

• RFG's (Random Flow Generators) will be in black and I intend to print 8. Having an extra set of 4 for a backup
• End Caps will be in gray and I intend to print 4. Having 3 for a backup
• Strainer (if I can find it) will also be in gray and I intend to print 2. This way, I can remove one for cleaning and replace it with a clean one

Seems that for this project 3D printing will become a large part of the project and I am already considering just purchasing a 3D Printer and produce what I need myself. We live in a day and age where this is no longer out reach. Also, being a Tech Junkie, this would scratch an itch I have had for quite some time.

Also considering whether to keep the return plumbing (from the Pump back to the Aquarium) in the largest PVC Pipe Size possible (that fits the pump output) and reduce to 1/2" just before exiting into the Aquarium. It would make sense that the large PVC Pipe diameter would dramatically help with flow.

Gary

 

Not much more for progression. I am going to order the plumbing parts for the overflow and bean animal setup with the Stockman Standpipe variant.

As luck would have it, a friend of my oldest Daughter does Custom 3D Printing. Not only did I get the nozzles printed and the end caps but a few other things I have been meaning to get printed for a while (Freddy Krueger statue (for my oldest Daughter) and a Mad Dog/Vulture from the MechWarrior game series).

The price was also pretty darn cheap as well, so I may just push all my 3D Printing jobs his way.

Once I get the RFG's and End Caps in my possession I will post some pictures of the end product.

Gary

 

On the way...

1 X Lifegard Aquatics Overflow Screen Strainer (1/2" Slip, Black) for Primary Drain
1 X 47" PVC Pipe Schedule 40 - 1/2", Red (Emergency Drain)
3 X 47" PVC Pipe Schedule 40 - 1/2", Black (the supplier of the high gloss grey no longer carries it). For Primary Drain and Stockman Standpipe
1 X 2 Pack 8" Glass Suction Cups (with Handles) to Lift Large Glass - Heavy Duty
2 X LA-CO Plasto-Joint Stik Plastic Thread Sealant Stick, 1 1/4 oz

Throwing in Shipping and Taxes and the 3D Printing Job, the project total is now up to $3,879.04 CAD

The Stockman Standpipe build will be my own version. Still need the initial 1/2" PVC Pipe, but rather than an extensive list of components (somewhat unnecessary in my opinion) I am going to get the following;

• 1 X 1/2" O-Ring (will purchase at least 20)
• 1 X 1" PVC Schedule 40 Black Coupling
• 1 X 1/2" Slip Black PVC End Cap (Schedule 40), which is bring 3D Printed

The O-ring to allow modifications and fine adjustment tuning for height of the 1" PVC Schedule 40 Coupling. End cap will still be drilled with a 1/8" Hole.

Gary

 

All the items arrived yesterday. It was a parade of Delivery Vans/People.

Now that I have the PVC piping in my hand, I have a horrible gut feeling that this 1/2" PVC Piping is just way too small. 1" Bulkheads = 1/2" PVC. Even though I am going with a Bean Animal, holding the actual product in my hands, feels like I should have went a bit larger on the hole sizes and piping of the tank.

If all else fails, I will have to get the holes redrilled to larger sizes. What a mess that will be.

Gary

 

All the items arrived yesterday. It was a parade of Delivery Vans/People.

Now that I have the PVC piping in my hand, I have a horrible gut feeling that this 1/2" PVC Piping is just way too small. 1" Bulkheads = 1/2" PVC. Even though I am going with a Bean Animal, holding the actual product in my hands, feels like I should have went a bit larger on the hole sizes and piping of the tank.

If all else fails, I will have to get the holes redrilled to larger sizes. What a mess that will be.

Gary

If this were a saltwater tank you would 100% be right. I am using 5/8 tubing on my 75 gallon and only one intake and 1 return. You will have double that in 1/2" tubing. So you have more throughput then me. You 'should' be fine. Just don't get any crazy ideas about turning it into saltwater