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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Dude, that was one of the most helpful posts on pruning I've ever seen.

And I've never overly thought about it but it seems like it's make sense. I take it as well that using side shoots as opposed to replanting tops would also serve to make trimming easier, as if the plant isn't becoming multiple competing plants it probably does not grow upwards as much or shade everything ever right?
Thanks man, yeah that's what I think happens. Even downoi exhibits this in an interesting manner. However, depending on how the plant growth shoots form, not all are suitable for pruning into dense bush form. Rotala rotundifolia/wallichi, Hemianthus glomeratus, Ludwigia arcuata/brevipes, Limnophila aromatic/vietnam are some examples of plants suitable for dense background bushes. Ludwigia repens is one of the worst; it grows wide and open with large flattish leaves. Some others like Rotala macrandra/Ludwigia pantanal prefer to be unshaded, and doesn't form alot of side shoots (and look nicer with a single large shoot).
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
The first video of the trimming/pruning series is done; for you guys reading these posts there is nothing new... I think. I just transferred the info here into video format; the actual trimming vid will be done probably within these 2 weeks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSngM7OVpPc
 

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The first video of the trimming/pruning series is done; for you guys reading these posts there is nothing new... I think. I just transferred the info here into video format; the actual trimming vid will be done probably within these 2 weeks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSngM7OVpPc

I absolutely love how you articulated the process in this video with explanation and diagrams. This video is worth it's weight in gold in the planted aquarium hobby. Can't wait for the next video.
 

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Very very Nice! Do you still dose 20ppm NO3 and 1PPM Po4 every 2 weeks into your tank? If not, can you share your current modified EI regime with regards to how much dry powder (NO3/PO4/CSM+B) into your tank per how many days?
And do you use any other additives like DTPA Fe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
hi thanks for visiting !

I tweak the dosing slightly as the pruning cycle changes, as the ludwigia arcuata bush makes up quite a bit of plant mass in the tank. I ease off the phosphates for a bit everything I deep prune the large bushes.

So the cycle goes like this:
Water change 25% every 5 days - due to usage of limestone (seiryu rock) in the tank, the KH rises everyday, so I choose a more frequent WC schedule but change less amount. After WC, the KH will usually be around 5-6 and rises to 8-9 on day 5. This also corresponds to a TDS flux between 130 - 200. The dosage is pretty lean for a heavily planted tank...

- I dose a larger dose after the water change and use smaller doses towards day 5 to keep the TDS more stable. Fe/Traces by CSM + B dosed daily as EDTA doesn't last long in high KH tanks

After WC
Day 1:
I dose 7ppm magnesium by MgSO4
6ppm nitrates by KNO3
5ppm potassium by K2SO4 (on top of what is given by KNO3)
0.3ppm phosphates by KH2PO4
0.05ppm Fe/traces by CSM + B

Day 2:
0.05ppm Fe/traces by CSM + B

Day 3:
3ppm K
3ppm N
0.1ppm PO4
0.05 Fe/Traces

Day 4 same as day 2 and day 5 same as day 3...

This puts potassium/Nitrates in the range of 15-30



Some tweaks depending on what I see:
Colored stems not as richly colored as they are; increase dose of phosphates/ Fe + Traces

Leaf issues - check potassium (rare except at the start when dosing was even more lean)

Sometimes I do some the odd algae; some dust/cladophora - tend to go away with better CO2 control but I find cutting down phosphates seem to help also, especially in high light tanks.
 

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Hello Xiaozhuang I recently saw your video on Youtube which led me to this forum. This is my first post on here and I think you've done a very thorough job explaining the pruning process. I used to live in Seoul, South Korea and would watch the aquascapers while pruning but didn't understand their process.

Recently I've setup my scape and feel I'm having flow issues, do you think you can help me out here?

Here is a picture of my scape:
http://www.njagc.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5990&d=1419555654
 

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Gorgeous tanks and your trimming videos are best I have seen. Top stuff there, great job :)

So you don't dose any excel or run co2 in your low tech right? How are you avoiding algae outbreaks?

What lighting is on the low tech? Maybe I missed it but I couldn't find the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Gorgeous tanks and your trimming videos are best I have seen. Top stuff there, great job :)

So you don't dose any excel or run co2 in your low tech right? How are you avoiding algae outbreaks?

What lighting is on the low tech? Maybe I missed it but I couldn't find the info.
Thanks! I think a certain amount of CO2 comes from the soil decomposition, and the low tech tanks have very low bio-loads; the mechanics are similar to high-tech - having more competitive plants means less algae issues. And low tech tanks benefits from being very very stable compared to tanks with Co2. I use a 24w cfl desklamp for all the smaller tanks; they give great adjust ability (higher for lower light), and allows for altering light direction to shine around the hardscape.

Bump:
Dude! Updates please!!!!!
Oh nuoo ppl chasing now...

Have been busy with work, and have a new 3ft tank to scape; some preliminary rock work to tease



 
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