That's is freakin awesome bud
Well done
From hobby to addiction
Well done
From hobby to addiction
Wood
Hello guys, first of all a warm greeting from Italy.
I apologize if my English is not perfect.
I state that I stumbled on your forum so almost by accident, as I saw that managed to build some really beautiful co2 regulators and certainly not very expensive, whereas here the stuff that you used or is not imported or costs a lot.
I therefore present my work in a small tub where I used LEDs.
First of all it seems fair to state that I do not have the technical expertise, to talk about LEDs, par, lux, let alone of wavelengths.
In all honesty I do not know what difference there is exactly par and lux. However, for a while 'time I climb on my ceiling tanks led and this time, I developed on the field a bit' of experiences (both negative and positive).
Having said that there specific mention of LEDs is difficult because of a ceiling light and the other can change everything and even more so when we talk about LEDs belonging to a built car ceiling. Often I hear "the LEDs do not work" or "are not like the T5", rather it should be said "the ceiling light LED does not work", which is something quite different. Personally I have a somewhat 'empirical and definitely questionable to affirm whether it worked a ceiling light, mount it on the aquarium and try at least for one year only way I can really understand if it works without the least interested of all those technical data , I repeat, I have not even idea of what they are, Oh God this is not to say that knowing this information is useless (for which are well-testing in this sense) but personally I consider it crucial. What I write and I will continue to write my impressions and experiences will be just in time on the use of LED ceiling lights and consider them as such. Last premise: all my thoughts and observations are made for the management of tanks usually enough and planted with plants often demanding in terms of light and water chemistry. I say that to advance a spa with LED lighting is slightly more complicated than doing it with T5 or HQI lighting with LEDs because the tank may be subject to faster changes and you have to have a certain eye to read. Consequently I say to newcomers to start with T5 lighting or HQI because they are easier to manage, but it is not: the neophytes the only advice I can give is to start with simple and undemanding plants made of light, matured a bit 'of experience and, consequently, a bit' of an eye you can start with the most demanding plants. The message is this in practice "learning to read the bath and change management accordingly." Since they are able to understand in these years a tub does not work well because there are mounted above the LED or T5, but good results are data from a whole series of factors such as an indispensable other light, filtering, always correct values and sound management (fertilization). The lack of just one of these elements completely affect the final result. This is to say that if a ceiling mounted LED and then not treated all the other parameters do not say that it is the fault of the LEDs.
After this long preamble, and hoping not to have to already bored here is a version that uses a small light source with LEDs (Dennerle Nano Power LED 5.0).
I state that the composition I made mainly revolves around epiphytic plants and a large piece of wood, which was the main point we say aureus (or focal) aquarium.
The tank has been set up in two different steps in the first place I started with dry moss (Fissidens Fontanus), I left for about 2-3 weeks with only a short period of light (about 3 hours).
Then I added the Anubis barteri var. nana 'Petite' and Bolbitis Heteraclita 'difformis' I want to say that the last one is one of my favorites - small, dark green that grows very slowly until it is completely submerged.
Later I added the rest of the plants - sp Micranthemum Montecarlo 3, a Helanthium Tenellum carpet for the background and a few pieces on the wood, combined with Glossostigma elatinoides.
I then gradually raised the photoperiod to 10 hours a day.
Later I used Crypthanthus bivittatus, for the tip of the wood that I purposely left emerged.
For lighting I used a Dennerle Nano Power LED 5.0, which I placed in ca. 20 cm above the water surface.
Before I enter the water further I increased the photoperiod of 10 to 12 hours a day and I noticed that the moss very slowly began to take the shape you want from me on the wood.
I fertilized with BioCO2 (JBL Bio 80) avvelendomi of a UP CO2 atomizer Aqua.
The light as I said is a very common Dennerle Nano 5.0 LED (about 2000 lux at 30 cm depth).
Subsequently they were added to the composition 3 Bromelias two are on the wood (Crypthanthus bivittatus and Guzmania monostachia and one in the rear (Vrisea splendens) Kokedama.
Substrate: Tropica Aquarium Soil
Filter: Eheim Mini
Fertilization:
The fertilization in the column is entrusted to a PMDD composed of Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate and chelated micronutrients:
B 0.50
Cu 0.50
Fe 4.00
3.00 mg
Mn 4.00
Mo 0.20
Zn 1.00
PMDD was later integrated with weekly interventions Ferropol JBL to increase the component of iron chelate, which now stood at 0.8 mg / liter.
I have never, nor in this tank it in previous accomplishments never used resins, salts or algaecides whatsoever.
CO2: 20ppm only photoperiod
Run: twice weekly change of 'approximately 30% with only water RO + salts.
Values :
KH 3
GH 8
pH 6.8
CO2 20ppm
NO3- 15-20ppm
PO4 1-2ppm
Fe-0.2 ppm
NO2- 0ppm
NH4 0.5-1ppm
Lighting 12h / day.
Now I leave the photos ..
Bump: Other photos
I apologize if my English is not perfect.
I state that I stumbled on your forum so almost by accident, as I saw that managed to build some really beautiful co2 regulators and certainly not very expensive, whereas here the stuff that you used or is not imported or costs a lot.
I therefore present my work in a small tub where I used LEDs.
First of all it seems fair to state that I do not have the technical expertise, to talk about LEDs, par, lux, let alone of wavelengths.
In all honesty I do not know what difference there is exactly par and lux. However, for a while 'time I climb on my ceiling tanks led and this time, I developed on the field a bit' of experiences (both negative and positive).
Having said that there specific mention of LEDs is difficult because of a ceiling light and the other can change everything and even more so when we talk about LEDs belonging to a built car ceiling. Often I hear "the LEDs do not work" or "are not like the T5", rather it should be said "the ceiling light LED does not work", which is something quite different. Personally I have a somewhat 'empirical and definitely questionable to affirm whether it worked a ceiling light, mount it on the aquarium and try at least for one year only way I can really understand if it works without the least interested of all those technical data , I repeat, I have not even idea of what they are, Oh God this is not to say that knowing this information is useless (for which are well-testing in this sense) but personally I consider it crucial. What I write and I will continue to write my impressions and experiences will be just in time on the use of LED ceiling lights and consider them as such. Last premise: all my thoughts and observations are made for the management of tanks usually enough and planted with plants often demanding in terms of light and water chemistry. I say that to advance a spa with LED lighting is slightly more complicated than doing it with T5 or HQI lighting with LEDs because the tank may be subject to faster changes and you have to have a certain eye to read. Consequently I say to newcomers to start with T5 lighting or HQI because they are easier to manage, but it is not: the neophytes the only advice I can give is to start with simple and undemanding plants made of light, matured a bit 'of experience and, consequently, a bit' of an eye you can start with the most demanding plants. The message is this in practice "learning to read the bath and change management accordingly." Since they are able to understand in these years a tub does not work well because there are mounted above the LED or T5, but good results are data from a whole series of factors such as an indispensable other light, filtering, always correct values and sound management (fertilization). The lack of just one of these elements completely affect the final result. This is to say that if a ceiling mounted LED and then not treated all the other parameters do not say that it is the fault of the LEDs.
After this long preamble, and hoping not to have to already bored here is a version that uses a small light source with LEDs (Dennerle Nano Power LED 5.0).
I state that the composition I made mainly revolves around epiphytic plants and a large piece of wood, which was the main point we say aureus (or focal) aquarium.
The tank has been set up in two different steps in the first place I started with dry moss (Fissidens Fontanus), I left for about 2-3 weeks with only a short period of light (about 3 hours).
Then I added the Anubis barteri var. nana 'Petite' and Bolbitis Heteraclita 'difformis' I want to say that the last one is one of my favorites - small, dark green that grows very slowly until it is completely submerged.
Later I added the rest of the plants - sp Micranthemum Montecarlo 3, a Helanthium Tenellum carpet for the background and a few pieces on the wood, combined with Glossostigma elatinoides.
I then gradually raised the photoperiod to 10 hours a day.
Later I used Crypthanthus bivittatus, for the tip of the wood that I purposely left emerged.
For lighting I used a Dennerle Nano Power LED 5.0, which I placed in ca. 20 cm above the water surface.
Before I enter the water further I increased the photoperiod of 10 to 12 hours a day and I noticed that the moss very slowly began to take the shape you want from me on the wood.
I fertilized with BioCO2 (JBL Bio 80) avvelendomi of a UP CO2 atomizer Aqua.
The light as I said is a very common Dennerle Nano 5.0 LED (about 2000 lux at 30 cm depth).
Subsequently they were added to the composition 3 Bromelias two are on the wood (Crypthanthus bivittatus and Guzmania monostachia and one in the rear (Vrisea splendens) Kokedama.
Substrate: Tropica Aquarium Soil
Filter: Eheim Mini
Fertilization:
The fertilization in the column is entrusted to a PMDD composed of Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate and chelated micronutrients:
B 0.50
Cu 0.50
Fe 4.00
3.00 mg
Mn 4.00
Mo 0.20
Zn 1.00
PMDD was later integrated with weekly interventions Ferropol JBL to increase the component of iron chelate, which now stood at 0.8 mg / liter.
I have never, nor in this tank it in previous accomplishments never used resins, salts or algaecides whatsoever.
CO2: 20ppm only photoperiod
Run: twice weekly change of 'approximately 30% with only water RO + salts.
Values :
KH 3
GH 8
pH 6.8
CO2 20ppm
NO3- 15-20ppm
PO4 1-2ppm
Fe-0.2 ppm
NO2- 0ppm
NH4 0.5-1ppm
Lighting 12h / day.
Now I leave the photos ..
Bump: Other photos
Attachments
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Sorry just saw that you have RCS in the tank......and that's exactly what I was going to suggest
From hobby to addiction
I'm happy :smile2::smile2:...
I unfortunately do not speak English very well so I hope you will excuse me if I make a lot of grammatical mistakes, but I hope to make myself understood.
I scored on this site quite by accident, because I saw you there in america can you build regulators for co2 with DIY, unfortunately, here we have that stuff (regulators) is very expensive or is not for nothing .
Now I am in contact with a user here in the forum to see if I can buy co2 regulator, only the shipping costs are many and would not that then make me problems at customs.
Bump: I have many aquariums to manage and wanted to make a co2 cylinders station with a single regulator that would serve me the various tanks, this is the other hot planted.
Attachments
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
