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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
High guy's

I have a second hand (Craigs List) acrylic 100 gallon tank and I was wondering how to tell who manufactured the tank? The reason I am wanting to know is after it has been emptied of water and dried I am seeing white spots in the reams like it is starting to separate. I have one spot that is getting more than half way through the seem. Also I see some crazing and if it is under warranty, I would like to get it replaced, if not, .. I will use some weld-on #4 I have floating around.

There is no identification marks on it.

The measurements are 60"L x 18" D x 20"H

It has a black acrylic back, 2 large openings and 2 large slots and 2 1.75 holes on top. The two holes drilled in the back, look like an after thought as they are not cleanly cut.

I have added a picture in hopes that someone can recognize the tank.

BTW ... the previous owner also got it second hand and has no clue of the age or manufacture of the tank.

Thanks
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Correct, I was looking at the different warranties and it seems that since I am not the original purchaser, I'm S.O.L. if I can't fix it myself.

I have done a bit of work with acrylic and I am very familiar with using all the different solvent adhesives from Weld-On. I am just unsure if fixing a tank of this size is what I want to do. Any slip ups and I will have a pond in my bedroom! :icon_eek:

I tried to wick in some Weld-On #4 into the seam and I was able to get in there about half way. I think I will call Seaclear and ask them if I should drill a .032" diameter hole to the bottom of the white spots in the seam wick some #4 in the bottom of the hole and then fill it with Weld-On #16.

Just one more question, ... what thickness of padding is recommended under a100 gallon acrylic tank?
 

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weld-on 16 on the edges would work well for filling the gaps better then #4 would.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
weld-on 16 on the edges would work well for filling the gaps better then #4 would.
As far as Weld-On goes, ... #4 is water thin, #16 is about the same viscosity as pancake syrup. What I have is white spots like air bubbles starting to form from the outside of the seem going in. The #4 will get in tight places via capillary action. #16 is way to thick to go anywhere into a seam. If I drill a .032 (1/32") 3/4 of the way, I can wick in #4 and when it evaporates, I can use a syringe to get the #16 down in the hole to fill it sealing up the hole created to get the #4 down in there.

Hmmm, maybe I should do a tank repair thread, if it works, it's a how to, ... if not, ... it's a how not to do it!

Bill
 
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