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Where to Drill

1859 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  proaudio55
I have a 48G Glass Tank. Bottom is Tempered, but nothing else. I have always liked doing bulkheads instead of having tubing go over the sides. Since I have never done a Sump yet I will probably just stick with hooking it up to a canister like I always have. My question is where should I place the intake and output. The output could be either LocLine fittings or a spraybar. What would you do?
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Here's how I did it:



After doing it this way, I would probably not do the returns through the side due to the potential of siphoning. My advice: Do the drains through the side, and returns up and over.

Tank journal here, for more info.
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Ii prefer my outlet towards the bottom and I attach a pvc pipe and elbow to it. That way I can adjust water level by either cutting a shorter/longer pipe or by tilting it to one side to get the level. I would still do input over the top but if that's not an option I would drill the input at the top.
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Here's mine:
Top left is an overflow to the sewer
Bottom left is canister filter intake
Middle right is canister filter outlet


This configuration works great!! You can do a 75% water change and still keep your canister filter running fine. And with an overflow in place, you're all set to add an automatic water change system.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting.php?do=show&type=f&id=11620&title=drillingc.jpg

Overall look. Overflow isn't visible because of Nymphoides Aquatica leaves :)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting.php?do=show&type=f&id=10352&title=april_2012_-1b.jpg

Over flow in top left corner

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting.php?do=show&type=f&id=10557&title=overflow_detailc.jpg
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Oh, and what NOT to do was what I did to my 46 gallon bow front....

I drilled both the inlet and outlet very near the top edge. Only once it was done did i realize the problem: Every time I did a water change, as soon as I removed about 5 gallons of water, the canister filter would just chop air. The filter couldn't be returned to service until the water change was done. ++sigh++ Not the end of the world, but really annoying.



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So, the optimum is bulkhead holes lower down, and plumbing inside the tank to make the inlets and outlets at the elevation and angle that you want.

I think I would leave these inside the tank parts loose (not glued, not tightened) for adjusting. I have done plumbing inside the tank, and the lack of glue is not a problem in internal fittings.
My tank has both holes bottom drilled. Using the back right for overflow box to sump and other for return. Not happy with where the return line comes in but dont feel like patching and redrilling. This is how mine is going to work. Still need to box in overflow and paint pipe, but finishing up on polishing the acrylic first.

Attachments

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So, the optimum is bulkhead holes lower down, and plumbing inside the tank to make the inlets and outlets at the elevation and angle that you want.

I think I would leave these inside the tank parts loose (not glued, not tightened) for adjusting. I have done plumbing inside the tank, and the lack of glue is not a problem in internal fittings.
Yep, I agree 100%... I'm more of an NPT guy myself (as opposed to slip), but I end up tweaking my system every few months and it's really easy to do. All my fittings are threaded together. I only screw them in finger tight; with a little teflon tape on there, it's 100% sealed (Not that it really matters).

IMHO I don't really see any need to glue the inside fittings; if it leaks a tiny bit, what's the difference?
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