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I've got two on my 75 gallon tank over 10 hours total I have brightness and color go up to 65% and red and amber light values up to 70% at the peak hours. My Ludwigia is slowly turning red, but I've also got a bit of stringy green algae appearing here and there now. doing one 50% and one 30% water change a week and adding blackwater extract, Thrive S, and CO2. Was just curious to see what others have set their Kessils to.
 

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Looking back in my notes, seems I set the max intensity (30%) based on getting a PAR of 150 at the substrate (using Seneye Reef PAR meter). My tank is quite shallow at only 10" water depth, and the light is at 11" above the tank, hence the low intensity.

I initially had the light set at 50-65% max intensity before I measured with PAR meter. I did have some problems with algae, nothing major, but all better since reducing intensity down to 30% max. All plants growing well (salvinia minima floating, Christmas moss and java fern at mid-depths, eleceocharis pusilla grass on the bottom. Tank has pressurised Co2 and I follow the Seachem daily dosing schedule with everything except Excel and Advance, and with NPK each at double recommended "beginner" dose. Tank seems in balance, minimal algae (rarely need to clean glass), plants green and growing well enough. Sure I could push it further with more CO2 and brighter light for more demanding plants, but I have the lush green tank I wanted with not too much plant trimming required. 20% water changes every 1 or 2 weeks.

Colour set at 50% based purely on how I liked the look of the plants in the tank. Figure that plants and fish don't actually acre about the colour of the light, so this is purely tweaking based on personal preference.

Red light only late evening is best I could do as a moonlight for after dark viewing (red is awful and you can't see much, but there are no blue LEDs in the Tuna Sun version, so it's that or nothing). 4% red intensity seemed to be the dimmest setting at which my light would work.

Does this help at all @Spiritus-Ichthus ? If nothing else, it will serve me as a record in case the light somehow looses it's stored program down the line! :surprise:
 

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I've had mine for about 10 months now and have been struggling with GDA but I was running my intensity ramping up to 80%, 100% peaks throughout the day. I've backed off to 70% and am still getting some GDA on the glass. Just recently I changed the settings to go no higher than 40% intensity to see if that help avoid GDA.

During this time I've tried different levels of dry ferts (NPK), and dry micros with the same GDA no matter what I did.
Weely 50% water changes do not help.
No ferts after huge water change seems to slow the GDA down but then the plants suffer too. :(

What I cannot figure out is how it is possible to grow plants that need high light if it just grows algae. I now wondering if I should have just kept my 5, 40 watt T12's instead.

55 gallon Clarity Plus (acrylic tank with euro style acrylic top - cutouts for light).
Tank is 48" wide and 24" high, about 3 inches of black sand blasting sand.
My 2 Kessil A360X units are mounted to lamp shades making them about 8" above tank top).
20 gallon sump in basement with CO2 reactor.
Added two tunze powerheads to beef up water flow about 4 months ago and doesn't seem to help with GDA.

I'm starting to realize from reading what other have done that we should go no higher than 40% intensity with these lights.
 
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