The Planted Tank Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Earlier I asked for people’s experiences with sumps vs canister filters (https://www.plantedtank.net/#/topics/1313561). Based on the responses, I went with a sump as my main filter. Now I am deciding on the type of mechanical filtration to use in the sump.

I know that roller filters are all the rage in reef tanks. However, given all the detritus produced in a planted tank, I wonder if they are appropriate for planted tank use. Has anyone used a filter roller? What are your thoughts?

Alternatively I can use filter floss in filter sock cups. Any experiences with this?

Third option is to use a combination of sponges at the drain pipes. What would be a good design for this?

Thanks in advance for your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
I'd just do filter socks. Replace them when they get almost clogged (usually 2-3 weeks). After this, you can toss them in the washer with sodium percarbonate (plain Oxi-Clean) to clean them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,420 Posts
Along with a canister filter HW 304B, I have a 40g sump on my 110g stock tank. I took a McD's drink cup and put holes in the bottom with a soldering iron and use Original Poly-Fil polyester fiber... Get's replaced about weekly.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,412 Posts
Floss is terribly cheap and simple but I find it also has some problems which I don't like, so I no longer use it in most cases. One thing I do not like is the way it sogs down into a solid mass so that it blocks flow so much.
One way to get the best filter flow and still get the small debris collected is to use a form of floss which is built of much the same materials but made to be more firm and not shift into the solid block.
A two part bonded media is what I now use for most things as the firmer build keeps it from sticking down in a clot.
Something like this, works very well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/10-FEET-Bonded-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B0195KOLYG

In real life, I have found that industrial air handlers use a material which is very much the same and much cheaper, so I bought a huge roll of it to cut to fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replies. I was leaning towards setting up a floss system. However, I found a good Black Friday deal on a Clarisea 5000 roller filter and took the plunge. Since there seems to be very little posted on roller filter use with planted tanks, I figured I can be a guinea pig - I like experimenting:smile2:. I’ll post again in a few weeks when I set up the tank to report my experiences.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,420 Posts
Thanks for all the replies. I was leaning towards setting up a floss system. However, I found a good Black Friday deal on a Clarisea 5000 roller filter and took the plunge. Since there seems to be very little posted on roller filter use with planted tanks, I figured I can be a guinea pig - I like experimenting:smile2:. I’ll post again in a few weeks when I set up the tank to report my experiences.

The Clarisea roller filter looks cool, but a bit pricey and quite the puzzle to put together! ... and the hydrophobic filter rolls are about $20? Should work well for you and looking forward to hearing how it goes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
218 Posts
I'm trying out 2 x 4"x10" 400micron socks as a prefilter (really course just to catch big stuff and not plug constantly), followed by 2"x10"x12" sheets of Poret Foam from 10ppi,20ppi,30ppi all the way to 45ppi (the 445ppi may be get removed), followed by a mesh bag full of BioMAX ceramic media (just becuase i had two old boxes of new old stock laying around).

Just running the filter in this week..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6 Posts
Big Reef sumps used this for years - very efffective and cheap

Bump:
Floss is terribly cheap and simple but I find it also has some problems which I don't like, so I no longer use it in most cases. One thing I do not like is the way it sogs down into a solid mass so that it blocks flow so much.
One way to get the best filter flow and still get the small debris collected is to use a form of floss which is built of much the same materials but made to be more firm and not shift into the solid block.
A two part bonded media is what I now use for most things as the firmer build keeps it from sticking down in a clot.
Something like this, works very well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/10-FEET-Bonded-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B0195KOLYG

In real life, I have found that industrial air handlers use a material which is very much the same and much cheaper, so I bought a huge roll of it to cut to fit.
Big Reef sumps used this for years - very efffective and cheap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
I use a 10 micron filter sock and clean it once a week. My sump stays clean and the bag has so much surface area that it doesnt clog. I clean it once a week with my water change.

If you are using 100 or 200 micron filter bags there is still detritus getting through the bag and settling in your sump. I did that too, but then tried the 10 micron and it works. Heres a DIY way to do it:

Just install this set up on your drain pipe to sump:




That red lid is a standard 7" Pyrex lid with a hole cut and it fits a 7" filter sock with the plastic frame perfectly. The bag shown above is 100 micron cut shorter before I tried this 10 micron one I found on Amazon, which is 16" long. I like the polyester material versus the felt; it seems more durable. I just fold it into the sump.

Brand: Duda Energy
4.0 out of 5 stars 47Reviews
Duda Energy PESP1PW-10um 10 Micron Welded Polyester Felt Filter Bag 7" x 16" Industrial Size #1, Polyester

Excuse the lack of a link.

An added benefit of the tight fitting lid is that it helps limit off gassing of CO2; I dont know how much but it makes sense that it would.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Those who use floss, do you throw it away when it gets clogged? or rinse in tank water and reuse to keep the beneficial bacteria?

I converted my Red Sea Reefer tank to freshwater and using the sump has come with pros but also 'possible' problems as well.
PROS:
1) Zero film on surface
2) Hides all my heaters, media, filters, reactors, sponges etc
3) water change from the sump

Main CONS:
1) I'm finding there is too much gassing off due to the way the reef tanks with sump are designed, too much turbulent water. My DC return pump is already set the the lowest setting.
My drop checker only goes from blue to light blue only, I can usually see the micro bubbles from diffuser go down the overflow and into the sump, where I am assuming its gassed off. I could increase co2 more but the tank will end up like 'fizzy bubble show'
Solution: co2 reactor? diffuser next to return pump?

2) How to polish the water efficiently like a canister filter where all the water drawn goes through the media/filter/pads. I have floss, white sponge pads, blue sponge pad in the first chamber/cups but its obvious the downflow is so high, water can bypass the 4 cups. I can see detritus in the sump already. I'm also trying to avoid reusing my filter socks (pain to wash)
Solution: buy a smaller return pump? (really dont want), use more floss and bin it more frequently?

Still working on solution, recommendations welcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
I gotta admit i had to go look up what a roller filter is.

I did not read into what the supposed benefits are of such a contraption

But im not a fan of anything with moving parts like that. To me its just more to malfunction.

Id rather just rely on gravity and a return pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Those who use floss, do you throw it away when it gets clogged? or rinse in tank water and reuse to keep the beneficial bacteria?

I converted my Red Sea Reefer tank to freshwater and using the sump has come with pros but also 'possible' problems as well.
PROS:
1) Zero film on surface
2) Hides all my heaters, media, filters, reactors, sponges etc
3) water change from the sump

Main CONS:
1) I'm finding there is too much gassing off due to the way the reef tanks with sump are designed, too much turbulent water. My DC return pump is already set the the lowest setting.
My drop checker only goes from blue to light blue only, I can usually see the micro bubbles from diffuser go down the overflow and into the sump, where I am assuming its gassed off. I could increase co2 more but the tank will end up like 'fizzy bubble show'
Solution: co2 reactor? diffuser next to return pump?

2) How to polish the water efficiently like a canister filter where all the water drawn goes through the media/filter/pads. I have floss, white sponge pads, blue sponge pad in the first chamber/cups but its obvious the downflow is so high, water can bypass the 4 cups. I can see detritus in the sump already. I'm also trying to avoid reusing my filter socks (pain to wash)
Solution: buy a smaller return pump? (really dont want), use more floss and bin it more frequently?

Still working on solution, recommendations welcome.
.

I struggled with the co2 in my reefer, but have it dialed now with a reactor. Good discussion about the topic over in this thread:

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1315751
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
2) How to polish the water efficiently like a canister filter where all the water drawn goes through the media/filter/pads. I have floss, white sponge pads, blue sponge pad in the first chamber/cups but its obvious the downflow is so high, water can bypass the 4 cups. I can see detritus in the sump already. I'm also trying to avoid reusing my filter socks (pain to wash)
Solution: buy a smaller return pump? (really dont want), use more floss and bin it more frequently?
Foam Filter "Walls" so there is no place for the water to bypass. Yes, I'll get sump mulm build-up in the sump, but it takes just a few minutes to syphon out during a cleanup.

Note: picture is from an early test run, as I don't have any other clear pictures on my computer right now. I've been running this setup for 6-7 years.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Foam Filter "Walls" so there is no place for the water to bypass. Yes, I'll get sump mulm build-up in the sump, but it takes just a few minutes to syphon out during a cleanup.
I second this. I had a 30 gallon tank under a 75 and I ran increasingly coarser rigid pads. My sump tank was a SW 9 gallon that fit right inside the 30 gallon, the pads were horizontal and I put floss on the top.

I also had a pothos in there, was able to get 0 nitrates, which was was was desired since this was a non-planted cichlid tank!
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top