The Planted Tank Forum banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
I would like to add that a lot depends on whether the tank is drilled or not. Canisters make better sense for non-drilled tanks as it eliminates external overflows etc that add cost and complexity. A drilled tank can go either way, I had a canister on a drilled 90 gal and then switched to a sump for maintenance and flexibility, but it is much more noisy. The surface skimming was a bigger benefit, however.

I like that fact that with a sump, it is easier to do partial changes of anything and also it is easy to keep cycled material for the once in while quarantine or hospital tank. Adding ferts and top off water easier too. Most canisters are solid and not see thru so it is hard to see mechanical filtration status.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Canisters are very good with CO2 , I use Eheim Classics on all of my plant tanks except 2 which have cheap Chinese air powered sponge filters and CO2 , I use Fluval canisters on Cichlid tanks when I have them and Air powered sponges on all of my Melanotaenea and Psedomugil breeding tanks ( Aussie/ Newguinea natives ).
I used to have a Sump based system with all of my tanks plumbed to a single sump and return . . A bacterial disease wiped out 90% of my fish - you live and learn .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
450 Posts
I would like to add that a lot depends on whether the tank is drilled or not. Canisters make better sense for non-drilled tanks as it eliminates external overflows etc that add cost and complexity. A drilled tank can go either way, I had a canister on a drilled 90 gal and then switched to a sump for maintenance and flexibility, but it is much more noisy. The surface skimming was a bigger benefit, however.

I like that fact that with a sump, it is easier to do partial changes of anything and also it is easy to keep cycled material for the once in while quarantine or hospital tank. Adding ferts and top off water easier too. Most canisters are solid and not see thru so it is hard to see mechanical filtration status.

I have to agree with this, if you don't want to drill, or can't a canister is the way to go. If You have a tank setup for a sump or are not afraid to drill a sump is the way to go space permitting.

I started out HOB, then went canister, and after a year am finally on a sump setup running under a reef ready tank. I will agree they are more noisy but if you do it right you just have a nice background trickle, though in the bedroom that might be an issue. Also I have noticed Co2 off gassing is not nearly as bad as everyone made it out to be during my research, I add a few more BPS and that made up for it.

Bump:
I have to agree with this, if you don't want to drill, or can't a canister is the way to go. If You have a tank setup for a sump or are not afraid to drill a sump is the way to go space permitting.

I started out HOB, then went canister, and after a year am finally on a sump setup running under a reef ready tank. I will agree they are more noisy but if you do it right you just have a nice background trickle, though in the bedroom that might be an issue. Also I have noticed Co2 off gassing is not nearly as bad as everyone made it out to be during my research, I add a few more BPS and that made up for it.

I used to have a Sump based system with all of my tanks plumbed to a single sump and return . . A bacterial disease wiped out 90% of my fish - you live and learn .
I have a friend who runs a setup like that and does not do a QT, no thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
I have an Eheim 2026 running on my 72 g. It's the same Eheim 2026 I had running on my 125 g over 10 years ago. I spent about $30 on parts to get back up and running. 10 years, under $200. That's not expensive that's a steal.

I have it set up in a planted tank with a high fish load right now. No detectable Ammonia or Nitrite. I had it set up in a large SA Cichlid tank with a high fish load back when I got it, never any dectable Ammonia or Nitrite. While using it in conjunction with Bio Wheel HOB's, I'd still say that there is imperical evidence that they can be highly effective at both mechanical and biological filtration equally. Same for Bio Wheel HOB's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I used to use Hagen Fluval C4 (HOB) in my tank but then I switched to Hagen Fluval 206 (Canister). I find that I always had to clean the HOB twice or thrice a month due to the molds and scum I get from my tank. It somehow clogs the white fabric where the water trickles on the biological filter. The canister on the other hand is on a different level. The Hagen Fluval 206 has four stages of filtration; mechanical and three biological or chemical depends on how you want to play it. In my case, after the mechanical I use the first two racks as biological filters then the last rack for chemical. I use Purigen in it. The water in my aquarium tank is like gin xD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I find that canisters work great as a biological filter but are poor at particle filtration. I use both canister and HOB (best for particle filtration) in the same tank. HOBs are easy to clean and maintain and by using these I greatly extend the time between canister cleanings. Water quality is very important to me and by using both systems I get very good results. Also, by using both systems, I get great water movement and surface turbulence.... no need for air stones or water movement pumps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
I opted for canisters on my show tank and HOB's for quarantine or just on hand in case of an emergency. I like hiding the filter, I don't want to see it or hear it...plus lilly pipes look great on a rimless tank.

I could imagine maintenance is much faster on a HOB if you can stand to look at the thing :p

I run 2 overly expensive canisters the Fluvial fx-6 and Eheim professional 3e. I also have a Eheim classic that was much much cheaper and works just fine.
The Fx-6 can't be beat on large 100 gallon plus tanks. The Eheim 3e has a built in computer, it's pretty fancy for a filter honestly, some might say totally unnecessary. Some of it's features include a built in primer button, computer that controls flow/speed with manual adjustment, auto flow adjustment to avoid pump burn out if it senses filter obstruction, 4 stages of filtration.

I stopped buying the expensive filter pad replacements and just buy bulk filter floss, that's how I save money now after that initial investment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
I love my canister filters, i run two on my 5ft tank. They are by far the easiest filter i have used and i like that can get away without cleaning them out for longer periods of time, compared to other filter types. I fill mine with marine pure, filter wool and sponge and they do the trick very well. I do maintenance on mine every 2 to 3 months or so, replace the filter wool and give the marine pure a rinse with tank water if it gets to much gunk in their.

Mine are quiet, easy to hide and when filled with a good bio media can deal with a larger bio load without an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
For me I would run from a canister. I have not had much luck with them not leaking. One is sitting in a bucket every time I shut it off it leaks. For smaller tanks under 30 gallon I like hob over 40 gallon a sumps the only way to go. I have one sump running two tanks and another on a 180. They are so easy to maintain and low cost. I always dread replace canister media.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I have seen really good comments on the last Rena's canisters and SunSun's.
I have 2 SunSuns (302 and 304-b) and am growing to dislike them more and more. The media baskets do not like to go in straight so the lid does not sit right and I have to pull them out and restack a few times. Recently the media baskets have started getting stuck in the canister and the handle pops off when trying to lift them out. Any additional pain during canister filter maintenance is too much.
I like Fluvals, Renas have never done me wrong, my Cascade is OK. I had an Eheim for a while, I don't remember having any problems with it.
Changing out filter socks in a sump is really easy and satisfying after mucking with canisters for years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I used HOB filter for over 15 years. Then I started a planted tank.....
I would say NO on HOB and NO on sump for planted tank if you also use CO2 for these main reasons:

1. The evaporation from HOB to move 5-10X water is significant. I have to top off my 55 gallon every two days. Ever since I swapped to the Fluval 406 Cannister filter, I top off once every two weeks.

2. Both sump and HOB will waste CO2 as they reach the surface quickly. The splashing will cause too much oxygen exchange and you will lose much of your CO2. If you want to waste your money on refilling CO2, go for a sump.

3. Noise. Once you get the canister setup right, the noise is at least 50% less than the HOB filter. I'm sensitive to noise, and I don't appreciate it when watching a peaceful fish documentary (what else would I be watching).

4. Space. I used 2x HOB and 2X internal heater and 1 C2 diffusor in my planted tank. I lose a lot of "gravel space" to plant or decorate because these things gets in the way. With the canister filter, I put an external heater that connects to the output of the canister filter pipe, and also an inline diffusor ...also outside the tank. Only thing In my tank as equipment is the intake and the outflow of the canister tube. Both are sitting on the same side so I have so much more room to play with.

5. Appearance. So much cleaner to focus on the plants and fish in the aquarium than have equipment staring back at your face.

All I can say is... I have only used canister filter for 3 months... and I wished I switched over sooner.

Felix C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
I use entirely Sunsun 302s on my 3x55 gallons and a (I think) older Aquatop 200 on a 35. The aquatop was the older type NOT the branded Sunsun and the quality is significantly higher though it moves less water.
the Sunsuns are about 5 years old and functionally fine though I will agree with an earlier poster those baskets do get wedged and due to the cheap quality the handles do come off leaving the baskets stuck within. Highly frustrating. Also one of my shut off valves on the eldest Sunsun is slowly bending and breaking.
Look, for the price they are excellent and I have used the valves and cleaned the Sunsuns ALOT through these 5 plus years as I keep well (live) stocked tanks that generate plenty of crud also I probably overfeed and we all know where that ends up.
In the filter. They have done more than I could have asked for given the initial cost outlay and the fact I remove them and clean them at least once a month sometimes twice.
Yes, the drawbacks are clear. But I cannot begin to say what an improvement over the HOB filters these canisters are.
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top