Green spot algae. Generally upping phosphates take care of it. It won't go away from the already affected leaves so if you don't want to see it then trim them off.
What is this stuff and how do I fix it ?
I have a 45G with the following spec.
Ammonia and Nitrite obviously o[censored]
Nitrate: 0.5[censored]
PH : 7.8[censored]
GH: 6 Degrees[censored]
KH: 3 Degrees[censored]
Phosphorous : 0.5-1 ppm (using API test kit and it was hard to tell exactly which it was) [censored]
Using a Finnex Planted + [censored]with 8 hours of lighting a day (2 on, 4 off, 3 on, 3 off, 3 on,) Yes I know some of you think staggering lights wont reduce algae but Im just scared of algae
No Co2[censored]
5 ml of excel EVERYDAY when lights are off[censored]
5 ml of Seachem Flourish ONCE per week after water changes
1/4 spoon of Bacter AE once a week
3 Otocinclus[censored]
~50 cherry shrimp[censored]
1 Siamese Algae Eater[censored]
4 German Blue Rams[censored]
I cant seem for the life of me get rid of this dark green spots on my leaves. They arent on all the leaves but some of them. I THINK its Green Spot Algae but I hear that if your keep your phosphate levels at a 10:1 ratio with nitrate then it should be okay, which mine are. I also have a bit of BBA growth on some of my java fern. Nothing crazy, just really small tidy specs. Id LOVE for all my plants to be lush and green like the new Anubias leaves that are in the picture. Do any of you know why some of my leaves are such a nasty dark green and how to get rid of it? Does Bacter AE create this stuff Green Spot Algae?
Thanks so much for your help
[censored]
Ammonia and Nitrite obviously o[censored]
Nitrate: 0.5[censored]
PH : 7.8[censored]
GH: 6 Degrees[censored]
KH: 3 Degrees[censored]
Phosphorous : 0.5-1 ppm (using API test kit and it was hard to tell exactly which it was) [censored]
Using a Finnex Planted + [censored]with 8 hours of lighting a day (2 on, 4 off, 3 on, 3 off, 3 on,) Yes I know some of you think staggering lights wont reduce algae but Im just scared of algae
No Co2[censored]
5 ml of excel EVERYDAY when lights are off[censored]
5 ml of Seachem Flourish ONCE per week after water changes
1/4 spoon of Bacter AE once a week
3 Otocinclus[censored]
~50 cherry shrimp[censored]
1 Siamese Algae Eater[censored]
4 German Blue Rams[censored]
I cant seem for the life of me get rid of this dark green spots on my leaves. They arent on all the leaves but some of them. I THINK its Green Spot Algae but I hear that if your keep your phosphate levels at a 10:1 ratio with nitrate then it should be okay, which mine are. I also have a bit of BBA growth on some of my java fern. Nothing crazy, just really small tidy specs. Id LOVE for all my plants to be lush and green like the new Anubias leaves that are in the picture. Do any of you know why some of my leaves are such a nasty dark green and how to get rid of it? Does Bacter AE create this stuff Green Spot Algae?
Thanks so much for your help
[censored]
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How do I up phosphates? and what do I up it too? too much I hear can cause other forms of algae?Green spot algae. Generally upping phosphates take care of it. It won't go away from the already affected leaves so if you don't want to see it then trim them off.
What are you using to dose phosphates? I don't do Seachem ferts I use dry.
Edit: Oh that's why you are just dosing Flourish which are micro nutrients not macros.
Edit: Oh that's why you are just dosing Flourish which are micro nutrients not macros.
What are you using to dose phosphates? I don't do Seachem ferts I use dry.
Edit: Oh that's why you are just dosing Flourish which are micro nutrients not macros.
So do I go out and get some Seachem Phosphate? or ......? and what level phosphate am I trying to get at? cuz right now Im between 0.5 and 1. I thought due to the 10:1 ratio of phosphate and nitrate I shouldnt be getting GSA?
That 10: ratio is good but it doesn't always work. You can go get Seachem phosphate and dose it yes, but I'd recommend getting a set of dry ferts. Don't get me wrong Seachem makes some really good stuff but one bottle of phosphate will cost half of what a full set of dry ferts will cost you. These dry ferts will also last you about 2 years with your size tank maybe longer. The cost savings is substantial and you're dosing the same stuff just in a dry form.So do I go out and get some Seachem Phosphate? or ......? and what level phosphate am I trying to get at? cuz right now Im between 0.5 and 1. I thought due to the 10:1 ratio of phosphate and nitrate I shouldnt be getting GSA?
I'd recommend starting and EI regiment with dry ferts for low light tanks and adjust your dosing from that.
Attached are links to a nutrient calculator and a fellow members site to buy the dry ferts.
Dry Fertilizer | Aquarium Fertilizer
Rotala Butterfly | Planted Aquarium Nutrient Dosing Calculator
Thanks so much for your help. A few notes/questions tho. I was doing some more research while waiting for responses and came across this site.That 10: ratio is good but it doesn't always work. You can go get Seachem phosphate and dose it yes, but I'd recommend getting a set of dry ferts. Don't get me wrong Seachem makes some really good stuff but one bottle of phosphate will cost half of what a full set of dry ferts will cost you. These dry ferts will also last you about 2 years with your size tank maybe longer. The cost savings is substantial and you're dosing the same stuff just in a dry form.
I'd recommend starting and EI regiment with dry ferts for low light tanks and adjust your dosing from that.
Attached are links to a nutrient calculator and a fellow members site to buy the dry ferts.
Dry Fertilizer | Aquarium Fertilizer
Rotala Butterfly | Planted Aquarium Nutrient Dosing Calculator
https://www.thespruce.com/phosphates-in-the-aquarium-1381884
Other sites also have said the same thing. Basically that phosphates are responsible for causing algae outbreaks. So Im really scared for dosing more Phosphates cuz I dont want to get rid of Green Spot Algae only to have some other type of algae outbreak.
I also went to the website for the nutrient calculator. I put my tank size, said I would be using DIY KH2Po$ Dry dosing and calculated for an EI. Then it gave me this chart. Ive got no idea how to read this chart. I just noticed that on the bottom it said my EI is between 1-3ppm for PO4. Most sites say that once it hits 2ppm or more, algae outbreaks start. So im sort of confused?
You can't be scared of algae it inevitable. There isn't a planted tank out there that doesn't have some sort of algae, you just need to learn how to combat it when it creeps up. I believe EI target for po4 is 1.3ppm but i think you will find a lot of people have a ppm on here upwards of 3. Every time I've encountered GSA bumping up my po4 took care of it.Thanks so much for your help. A few notes/questions tho. I was doing some more research while waiting for responses and came across this site.
https://www.thespruce.com/phosphates-in-the-aquarium-1381884
Other sites also have said the same thing. Basically that phosphates are responsible for causing algae outbreaks. So Im really scared for dosing more Phosphates cuz I dont want to get rid of Green Spot Algae only to have some other type of algae outbreak.
I also went to the website for the nutrient calculator. I put my tank size, said I would be using DIY KH2Po$ Dry dosing and calculated for an EI. Then it gave me this chart. Ive got no idea how to read this chart. I just noticed that on the bottom it said my EI is between 1-3ppm for PO4. Most sites say that once it hits 2ppm or more, algae outbreaks start. So im sort of confused?
Don't pay attention to the chart just look at the recommended dosage. You should choose low light EI for your dosage amount as full EI dosage is recommended for tanks with injected co2.
Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it. I will try and get my phosphate to 1.3 ppm. Im going to go with the Seachem brand first since it has a calculator on their site which makes it really easy for me to determine just how much cap fulls I will need to put in each week. I will also trim the leaves with the dark green spots and hopefully it wont return. Im crossing my fingers that no other crazy algae will take its spot. One last question however, too much phosphate will lead to what type of algae? and would it be harder to combat that type of algae instead of GSA? THanks again.You can't be scared of algae it inevitable. There isn't a planted tank out there that doesn't have some sort of algae, you just need to learn how to combat it when it creeps up. I believe EI target for po4 is 1.3ppm but i think you will find a lot of people have a ppm on here upwards of 3. Every time I've encountered GSA bumping up my po4 took care of it.
Don't pay attention to the chart just look at the recommended dosage. You should choose low light EI for your dosage amount as full EI dosage is recommended for tanks with injected co2.
James' Planted Tank - Algae GuideThank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it. I will try and get my phosphate to 1.3 ppm. Im going to go with the Seachem brand first since it has a calculator on their site which makes it really easy for me to determine just how much cap fulls I will need to put in each week. I will also trim the leaves with the dark green spots and hopefully it wont return. Im crossing my fingers that no other crazy algae will take its spot. One last question however, too much phosphate will lead to what type of algae? and would it be harder to combat that type of algae instead of GSA? THanks again.
Check this site out and look at the causes of the algae listed, 90% of them are do to a lack of nutrients. Generally algae appears do to lack of nutrients and too much light. One other thing I think you should do is fix your photo period. There's nothing wrong with a siesta but I think you should just have one and not break it up so much. Do something like 4 hours on and whatever break time you want and then back on for 4 hours. Personally I don't do this, all my tanks run on a straight 8 hours. By doing such short windows of light you may not be giving your plants enough time to really get going. The best way to prevent algae is to get your plants growing well.
James' Planted Tank - Algae Guide
Check this site out and look at the causes of the algae listed, 90% of them are do to a lack of nutrients. Generally algae appears do to lack of nutrients and too much light. One other thing I think you should do is fix your photo period. There's nothing wrong with a siesta but I think you should just have one and not break it up so much. Do something like 4 hours on and whatever break time you want and then back on for 4 hours. Personally I don't do this, all my tanks run on a straight 8 hours. By doing such short windows of light you may not be giving your plants enough time to really get going. The best way to prevent algae is to get your plants growing well.
THanks NLewis for all of your help. I will try all of this and keep you posted. Oh BTW, my local store sells Monopotassium phosphate in powered form. Is this what I need to get ? How many teaspoons should I be using?
Yes that's what you want, KH2PO4. Use the nutrient calculator I linked previously to figure out dosing. I suspect it will be a 1/16 tsp once a week for low light. I'd start around there and test throughout the week and see where it goes from there.THanks NLewis for all of your help. I will try all of this and keep you posted. Oh BTW, my local store sells Monopotassium phosphate in powered form. Is this what I need to get ? How many teaspoons should I be using?
Amazing. THANKS AGAIN! Youre a live saver =D and yes. Dry Ferts are a zillion times cheaperYes that's what you want, KH2PO4. Use the nutrient calculator I linked previously to figure out dosing. I suspect it will be a 1/16 tsp once a week for low light. I'd start around there and test throughout the week and see where it goes from there.
Uh... I live in Canada and the closest place that sells dry ferts is this place. Can you take a look at the link and tell me if thats what im suppose to get?Yes that's what you want, KH2PO4. Use the nutrient calculator I linked previously to figure out dosing. I suspect it will be a 1/16 tsp once a week for low light. I'd start around there and test throughout the week and see where it goes from there.
#4 Mono-pot Phosphate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
It says its "a highly efficient source of phosphorus and potassium for plants". is it okay that it has potassium in it? should it have it in it? lol thx
If you are in Toronto area, your tap water may already have Orthophosphate (PO4) @ 2ppm, Calcium @ 30+ppm, Magnesium @ 8+ppm. You get them for "free" for doing water change.
http://www1.toronto.ca/City Of Toro...ing Water Analysis Summary 2014 web FINAL.pdf
Recommended
KNO3: #3 Potassium Nitrate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
KH2PO4: #4 Mono-pot Phosphate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
K2SO4: (cannot find 800g size) #2 Potassium Sulphate 25lb | Hydrotech Hydroponics
Trace Elements (Micro CSM+B): #6 Trace Elements 100g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
http://www1.toronto.ca/City Of Toro...ing Water Analysis Summary 2014 web FINAL.pdf
Recommended
KNO3: #3 Potassium Nitrate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
KH2PO4: #4 Mono-pot Phosphate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
K2SO4: (cannot find 800g size) #2 Potassium Sulphate 25lb | Hydrotech Hydroponics
Trace Elements (Micro CSM+B): #6 Trace Elements 100g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
The 3 main macros we use as planted tankers are all a form of potassium. These include what @max88 listed below, k2so4, kno3 and kh2po4. If you are going to buy one fert than then get them all and save on shipping although the k2so4 is kind of an extra. What he said above is good if you have some of these already in your water supply but they may run short depending on how densely planted your tank is or later down the road.Uh... I live in Canada and the closest place that sells dry ferts is this place. Can you take a look at the link and tell me if thats what im suppose to get?
#4 Mono-pot Phosphate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
It says its "a highly efficient source of phosphorus and potassium for plants". is it okay that it has potassium in it? should it have it in it? lol thx
is orthophosphate the same as mono-pot phosphate? I should have taken Chem in high schoolIf you are in Toronto area, your tap water may already have Orthophosphate (PO4) @ 2ppm, Calcium @ 30+ppm, Magnesium @ 8+ppm. You get them for "free" for doing water change.
http://www1.toronto.ca/City Of Toro...ing Water Analysis Summary 2014 web FINAL.pdf
Recommended
KNO3: #3 Potassium Nitrate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
KH2PO4: #4 Mono-pot Phosphate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
K2SO4: (cannot find 800g size) #2 Potassium Sulphate 25lb | Hydrotech Hydroponics
Trace Elements (Micro CSM+B): #6 Trace Elements 100g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
Bump:
is orthophosphate the same as mono-pot phosphate? I should have taken Chem in high schoolIf you are in Toronto area, your tap water may already have Orthophosphate (PO4) @ 2ppm, Calcium @ 30+ppm, Magnesium @ 8+ppm. You get them for "free" for doing water change.
http://www1.toronto.ca/City Of Toro...ing Water Analysis Summary 2014 web FINAL.pdf
Recommended
KNO3: #3 Potassium Nitrate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
KH2PO4: #4 Mono-pot Phosphate 800g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
K2SO4: (cannot find 800g size) #2 Potassium Sulphate 25lb | Hydrotech Hydroponics
Trace Elements (Micro CSM+B): #6 Trace Elements 100g | Hydrotech Hydroponics
Bump:
Didnt see your message until I responded to his. Perfect. ThanksThe 3 main macros we use as planted tankers are all a form of potassium. These include what @max88 listed below, k2so4, kno3 and kh2po4. If you are going to buy one fert than then get them all and save on shipping although the k2so4 is kind of an extra. What he said above is good if you have some of these already in your water supply but they may run short depending on how densely planted your tank is or later down the road.
Not sure if they are. Google doesn't say so directly. My guess is orthophosphate is more equivalent to PO4. My API test kit shows 2ppm PO4 in tap water, also confirmed with calibration solution. A colleague tested with a different brand test kit showing 2ppm. I bought KH2PO4 before noticing tap water already has plenty.is orthophosphate the same as mono-pot phosphate? I should have taken Chem in high school
Toronto local tap water also has plenty Ca and Mg, GH booster isn't required. I do dose more K2SO4 than KNO3 due to NO3 from feeding.
Thanks Max88. Im from Richmond Hill and so have the exact same water as Toronto. Im so dumb. I forgot I had a phosphate remover in one of mi HoB's which is why im at 0.5ppm. If I still get GSA, it mst be a light issue then right?Not sure if they are. Google doesn't say so directly. My guess is orthophosphate is more equivalent to PO4. My API test kit shows 2ppm PO4 in tap water, also confirmed with calibration solution. A colleague tested with a different brand test kit showing 2ppm. I bought KH2PO4 before noticing tap water already has plenty.
Toronto local tap water also has plenty Ca and Mg, GH booster isn't required. I do dose more K2SO4 than KNO3 due to NO3 from feeding.
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