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Discussion Starter #1


Is it "Orange" or "Green"? It looks Orange to me, but Ive added 35 drops of solution to RO water with no noticable change! Im hoping it went right to this "Green" color after the first drop was added meaning I have 0 dGH. Can anyone who's used this test kit help me out here?
-David
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wasserpest said:
Would you consider telling us which test (manufacturer) it is? :wink:
Oh, I thought I had typed it into the post but I must have deleted it or something. Its an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit.

bharada said:
Looks green to me. RO water should indeed turn green at the first drop of reagent. Have you tested your tap water in comparison?
I hope it's green. I will do a test of my tap water right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just tested my tap water and I noticed a change from "Orange" to the same "green" color (as my RO test) at about 24-25 dGH. So Ive come to the conclusion that APharm's GH test kit sucks because the color change is WAY to subtle. Can any of you recomend a better one? Thanks for all your help.
 

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Are you color blind? Seriously have you ever taken one of those tests? On my monitor the color is undoubtedly green. Is that glider yours?
 

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I use the API GH kit also and there's not subtlety to the color change for me. It should start off as a clear orange that'll turn either fully green, or yellowish green depending on if you have a full or half GH level. For example, if my water is 17.5 dGH, on the 17th drop the liquid will turn yellow-green. The 18th will go full green.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
freeflyer said:
Are you color blind? Seriously have you ever taken one of those tests? On my monitor the color is undoubtedly green. Is that glider yours?
No, Im not colorblind, Im just having a hard time reading this particular test kit. When testing either my tap water (about 24.5 dGH) or my RO water (still unclear; about 0-4 dGH) the first 3-4 drops of reagent only affect the water's color very slightly (mostly clear with just a very light tint of color) then as I add more reagent, the color becomes more and more distinct. I definately am noticing the color change when testing my tap water, but the RO reading is still unclear. Im not frantic about it anymore though; as long as the dGH is lower than 10, I know my discus are safe. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Yes, that's my glider freeflyer :icon_bigg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks bharada, those pictures helped me out a lot. So, even though the green tint is very light, the RO water is still 0 dGH right?
 

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Your first picture looks green to me. So I'd say around 0 GH for your RO water.

A better way to monitor your RO's performance is with a TDS meter.
 

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haha, david, yours looks just like what I got with a bad/expired AP test kit, 35 drops, no change. Got another kit and it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
malkore said:
bharada, just wanted to say that was really nice of you to take the time to test and post those pics to help people out.
I couldnt agree more! :proud: :icon_bigg I owe you one man! I appreciate the time you took and it greatly helped me.

Also thanks to Rolo and Shalu for the replies;

Rolo, I may look into a TDS monitor, especially with how hard our water is here, it will make knowing when to change my prefiilters easier.

Shalu; haha, that makes me feel a little better. I will probably pick up another bottle of GH reagent today from my LFS. Take care.

-David
 

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audiotaylor said:
Shalu; haha, that makes me feel a little better. I will probably pick up another bottle of GH reagent today from my LFS. Take care.
I just hope they dont sell you another expired one :mad:
A good kit shows exactly the kind of 'green' in Bill's pics in posts #8 and #11. And the change is NOT subtle, quite sudden. Not the kind of 'green' in your first pic. Those who said yours is also green have not seen a bad AP GH test kit :icon_bigg Basically, you are seeing the color accumulation of the expired reagent, like I did. Initially I just gave up, thinking ok, my water is so frigging hard, >35 degs, but with a good kit, gh=8

Speaking of bad kits, my Hagen PO4 kit is also EOA (expired on arrival). The color is actually totally different from the chart range. I was just seeing the color of expired reagent. I don't test PO4 anymore, just dose a hell lot.
 

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bharada, just wanted to say that was really nice of you to take the time to test and post those pics to help people out.
Yeah, really Bill! :proud:

The first photo appears to be green to me as well. However, it doesn't look like you are using an AP test tube. Could your proportions be off?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Momotaro said:
Yeah, really Bill! :proud:

The first photo appears to be green to me as well. However, it doesn't look like you are using an AP test tube. Could your proportions be off?

Mike
Haha, good observation Mike. I actually broke every last AP test tube I had and resorted to buying replacements on eBay :icon_roll Its for the best though because I hated the crappy have-to-hold-it-so-tight-your-knuckles-turn-white-so-it-doesnt-leak-when-you-shake-it caps on the AP test tubes and these have nice rubber leak-proof stopers. I think I actually get better proportions with these than the AP test tubes because I use a syringe and simply fill it to the 5mL mark. No more guessing with that 3-16" thick fill-line on the AP test tube :wink: .
-David
 

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I actually did the same thing (purchase test tubes off the 'net) but mainly because I was testing two tanks at the same time and didn't have enough AP tubes at the time. Bought a bag full of black rubber stoppers, too. I even bought a couple of cheap plastic test tube racks, which you can see in my pics.

Of course, now I've accumulated enough AP tubes to supply a CSI lab, but I still like having the standard lad tubes, especially when I'm testing multiple tanks, since I can use an AP tube for one tank and lab tubes for the other. Nothing worse than shaking a couple of tubes, then forgetting which one is for which tank. :)
 
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