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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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My rotala green seems kind of yellow and the new leaves are small and twisted. I dose ei ferts at recommended levels, have a wrgb2 at 35% power (on legs over 14 inch deep tank) and I have a 1.4 ph drop from degassed tank water to lights on (7.7 to 6.3ish).
 

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Waterbox Frag 105.4 High Tech
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What are you dosing for micros?

I have a theory that metals in micro mixes can build up and cause toxic conditions to plants. I am dealing with some stunting in some of my plants and attempting to cut back on micros to see if it helps. There are some other classic threads kicking around about toxicity of CSM+B etc that can cause issues.

Is this only happening to certain species?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I’ve only seen this on rotala green you can see the Rotala hra and blood red in the background and neither of those show any sign of stunting.

I use the gla micro mix which I’m pretty sure is csm+b
 

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Hmmm hard to say. Everyone will say CO2 or Ca. I personally have tried to alter both of those with no luck in stopping stunting in some of my rotalas. Now that I have reduced micros and some a few very large water changes I am seeing mostly healthy growth. I think some stems are pretty intolerant to any lack of nutrients. If one is low or missing or uptake is affected it will freak out like this. Just my 2 cents good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks.

I do know my well water has very low calcium and magnesium levels from a ICP test I did on it. This is the first tank I've set up at my new house and the cherry shrimp I had were dying trying to molt. I bought some CaSO4 and MgSO4 from GLA and now my current batch of shrimp are molting and reproducing fine.

I have been using rotala butterfly to guestimate how much I need to add based on my well report but have been tending to undershoot to be on the "safe side". I will try adding more calcium each week during my water change and seeing if that helps anything. If I don't see a change I'll start decreasing my micro dose. I was thinking of maybe supplementing some more iron as well because of the yellowing but I'm not sure that is the problem.

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EDIT

Ok one more piece of the puzzle I am confused over.

In this test it says my tap water has 8.6 ppm of calcium and 3.2 ppm of magnesium. If 1 gh of calcium = 7.1 ppm of calcium and 1 dgh of magnesium = 4.3 ppm of magnesium I should have a dGH of around 2 if my napkin math is working out. I just took a reading at it came to a GH of 6 out of the tap. Are there other things but calcium and magnesium that can increase gH?
 

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Yes I’ve only seen this on rotala green you can see the Rotala hra and blood red in the background and neither of those show any sign of stunting.

I use the gla micro mix which I’m pretty sure is csm+b
it could be light, or lack thereof. hra and blood red have short internode lengths, the green is not as tight. is it an area that does not get as much as light as the others?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is one thing I’ve been thinking about as well. I’ve spoken with a few different people who have this light and both have given me very different impressions of how much light it puts out. The hra is in the center of the tank so it definitely receives more light than the green which are in the corners.
Now that my algae is mostly under control I may try slowly increasing light intensity and see if that helps.
 
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