There is also a new AS Amazonian 2. It is to be used for hard water
Well Water Issues, Please help.
I have been reading around on the forum here to find some answers but I am still confused as to what is my best approach.
I just relocated and am now on well water.
I have tested for ph and kh so far.
pH - 7.6
kH - 11
I plan on starting my high tech 20gal over with a new substrate. I am currently using tahiti moon sand.
Anyways, back to the water conditions.
I am curious what the best and most cost efficient way to go would be for conditioning and filtering my water.
As far as substrate, I have been reading that hard water and AS dont mix well, or at least for the first month or so.
My 20gal Tall tank setup:
2 x 65W CF bulbs
aquaclear 30 filter
pressurized co2
What direction should I go here? I want to use a better more nutritious substrate than moon sand. I want a light colored substrate but I will use cosmetic sand in addition if I have to.
Thanks
I just relocated and am now on well water.
I have tested for ph and kh so far.
pH - 7.6
kH - 11
I plan on starting my high tech 20gal over with a new substrate. I am currently using tahiti moon sand.
Anyways, back to the water conditions.
I am curious what the best and most cost efficient way to go would be for conditioning and filtering my water.
As far as substrate, I have been reading that hard water and AS dont mix well, or at least for the first month or so.
My 20gal Tall tank setup:
2 x 65W CF bulbs
aquaclear 30 filter
pressurized co2
What direction should I go here? I want to use a better more nutritious substrate than moon sand. I want a light colored substrate but I will use cosmetic sand in addition if I have to.
Thanks
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Really? Even so, when doing water changes I will be adding that hard water.
Should it not be filtered in any way?
My desired params are ph 6.5 and kh 3
Hmm, seems the amazonia 2 is perfect. Will I need to place anything else beneath it? Or can I use just this AS?
Should it not be filtered in any way?
My desired params are ph 6.5 and kh 3
Hmm, seems the amazonia 2 is perfect. Will I need to place anything else beneath it? Or can I use just this AS?
Consider yourself lucky; mine are pH 7.8 and KH 14.
If you really have to get to pH 6.5 and KH 3, you need to go the RO route. Given a KH of 11, conventional well water softeners will end up putting a bunch of salt in the water, and won't get the pH down that low.
If you really have to get to pH 6.5 and KH 3, you need to go the RO route. Given a KH of 11, conventional well water softeners will end up putting a bunch of salt in the water, and won't get the pH down that low.
Holy crap!
My tank went from 3 kH and 6.5 pH to 7.7 pH and 8kH in a few days and all of my shrimp died that i noticed. Today I just noticed an amano shrimp looking around, eating algae! Thats a hardcore shrimp
My tank went from 3 kH and 6.5 pH to 7.7 pH and 8kH in a few days and all of my shrimp died that i noticed. Today I just noticed an amano shrimp looking around, eating algae! Thats a hardcore shrimp
So what do you think is eating up the hardness and lowering your Ph? Your substrate? If this is the case then I would suggest doing small water changes to help to keep the tank stable. Once it gets to where it's going, ph and kh wise, then you can experiment to determine how much water you can change while minimally affecting the params.
kara
kara
Nothing is lowering my pH...? Its the well water that is raising it.So what do you think is eating up the hardness and lowering your Ph? Your substrate? If this is the case then I would suggest doing small water changes to help to keep the tank stable. Once it gets to where it's going, ph and kh wise, then you can experiment to determine how much water you can change while minimally affecting the params.
kara
I plan on redoing my tank which I have wanted to do for a long time. I am going to use the ADA AS amazonia 2 and use an R/O unit to filter the water. And then add unfiltered well water to raise my kH to the desired level as suggested by Rex.
10
Today I decided to walk up to the well house and take some pictures. I am curious what sort of filtration its using. I have to admit I was a little scared of walking inside the well house after reading a beefy document on Brown Recluse's and Black Widows that of course mentioned that these spiders love well houses.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
And sure enough as I lean in to take a closer picture of the filter I notice these guys all over.
![]()
And sure enough as I lean in to take a closer picture of the filter I notice these guys all over.
anyone know what that blue filter is?
Yay! More fun!
My new neighbors decided to buy a huge pool and fill it up in one day. Because of that, they have drained the well, cause it to refill and stir up all
the silt on the bottom of the well turning my water into milky white water.
I had no choice but to add this water to my fishtank, it had been two weeks since a WC.
Check out the video.
I am going to buy an RO unit I think, maybe RO/DI. Which I have a question about. If the unit produces 50gpd, does this need to be hooked up to a tank that will hold water? Do these produce clean water fast enough to fill a glass of water under 20 seconds?
My new neighbors decided to buy a huge pool and fill it up in one day. Because of that, they have drained the well, cause it to refill and stir up all
the silt on the bottom of the well turning my water into milky white water.
I had no choice but to add this water to my fishtank, it had been two weeks since a WC.
Check out the video.
I am going to buy an RO unit I think, maybe RO/DI. Which I have a question about. If the unit produces 50gpd, does this need to be hooked up to a tank that will hold water? Do these produce clean water fast enough to fill a glass of water under 20 seconds?
:hihi: I hate to laugh at your expense but the video sure tickled my funny bone. Looks like the piroclastic(spelling?) flow from a volcano. Wish I could help with the r.o. questions but I do not have one my self. Most people buy a drum or large rubber maid to hold water. I have seen some set up with float valves to shut the system down when barrel is full. I would think that if you do water changes on Sundays you could turn on r.o. system on and fill the holding container on Saturday afternoon.....night.
Do a search for RO on the forum tool bar.
You gotta love neighbors.
good luck.
Do a search for RO on the forum tool bar.
You gotta love neighbors.
good luck.
Have you had the water tested or had water purveyor/dealer come talk to you about your setup?
I would be concerned about YOUR health from your well...boil water. I can GUARANTEE you that you have total coliforms in your well which means you need to boil water.
Would be interested to know what systems are going on. Looks like some mechanical filters (blue one) and maybe some sand or softener system?
kara
I would be concerned about YOUR health from your well...boil water. I can GUARANTEE you that you have total coliforms in your well which means you need to boil water.
Would be interested to know what systems are going on. Looks like some mechanical filters (blue one) and maybe some sand or softener system?
kara
Wow, please dont scare me now, after I just downed a glass of water.
The people I have talked with, other residents here and my landlord who is also on well water says its harmless but that could just be their ignorance.
Is there any test I can do to see is the water is harmful or not?
Or should I call the company that installed the well?
The people I have talked with, other residents here and my landlord who is also on well water says its harmless but that could just be their ignorance.
Is there any test I can do to see is the water is harmful or not?
Or should I call the company that installed the well?
Have you had the water tested or had water purveyor/dealer come talk to you about your setup?
I would be concerned about YOUR health from your well...boil water. I can GUARANTEE you that you have total coliforms in your well which means you need to boil water.
Would be interested to know what systems are going on. Looks like some mechanical filters (blue one) and maybe some sand or softener system?
kara
Most water stores that sell drinking water systems will test your water for free to see if it is drinkable. The reason is because they want your service.Wow, please dont scare me now, after I just downed a glass of water.
The people I have talked with, other residents here and my landlord who is also on well water says its harmless but that could just be their ignorance.
Is there any test I can do to see is the water is harmful or not?
Or should I call the company that installed the well?
Hey Culligan Man!!!!
I am also on well water Iowa country living at it's best. I and my family do not drink the water. We have drinking water cooler and the water man brings us 6 or so 5 gallon jugs once a month.
It should not hurt you but coliforms in your water which come from sand, dirt, everywhere can mean something else that isn't so benign is in your water. If you have young children, elderly, chemo or aids people exposed to the water then you can have problems.
Call you well driller or local water company and talk to them. We take for granted that our water is 'safe' to drink. We have many people come to our lab saying they've drank the water for years and find our that they have fecal coliforms or arsenic or some other high levels in their well...
our website may be helpfull www.nilabs.com
I would just consider if your water has sand in it or any other floaty, your filters are not doing their jobs and need maintenance.
Kara
Call you well driller or local water company and talk to them. We take for granted that our water is 'safe' to drink. We have many people come to our lab saying they've drank the water for years and find our that they have fecal coliforms or arsenic or some other high levels in their well...
our website may be helpfull www.nilabs.com
I would just consider if your water has sand in it or any other floaty, your filters are not doing their jobs and need maintenance.
Kara
EXACTLY! You have two sand filters in place - the spun fiber tanks - they should stop any particulates from coming to your tap from the well. If not, they are not doing their jobs and probably need to be backflushed. However, it is possible that the storage tank has accumulated sediment that was stirred up by the large draw of water.I would just consider if your water has sand in it or any other floaty, your filters are not doing their jobs and need maintenance.
Kara
In the US, the EPA regulates drinking water provided by commercial companies (municipal or otherwise), but NOT private well water. If it is a private well, it is your job to make sure it is safe to drink.
Finally, don't trust the water softener companies to test your water. I am a PhD chemist who does some water quality work - so I let one of these companies come test my municipal water (for fun - I already knew the water quality). Quite an experience - scary for the mistakes made - in their favor. He said my water was >100ppm hardness, while my water company and I both measure 55ppm! Then tried to sell me a $5000 system! Use a water quality lab (as in the link above) so you know the results are unbiased and reliable. Then if there is a problem only buy what you need to fix the problem - RO is not always the answer. You pay for what you get - free is just that.
Kevin
Thank you very much for your help guys.
I am going to look into this further and have the water tested by some other company than a water softener company.
My boss told pretty much the same story yesterday at work when I brought up my water issues.
He explained that his water smelled a little weird but looked fine, but the smell turned him off from drinking it. So he had it tested and ended up spending $2000 - $3000 on a water softener system and then told me it did not fix his problem. And he says the water filter in his fridge that cost not even a fraction of the softener works great.
Luckily I live in an area that has alot to do with water and keeping its quality for salmon. I shouldnt have a problem getting free water tests.
I am going to look into this further and have the water tested by some other company than a water softener company.
My boss told pretty much the same story yesterday at work when I brought up my water issues.
He explained that his water smelled a little weird but looked fine, but the smell turned him off from drinking it. So he had it tested and ended up spending $2000 - $3000 on a water softener system and then told me it did not fix his problem. And he says the water filter in his fridge that cost not even a fraction of the softener works great.
Luckily I live in an area that has alot to do with water and keeping its quality for salmon. I shouldnt have a problem getting free water tests.
A bacteria test at our lab runs $40. The cost for the test is almost $20 for supplies/time so likely you wont get a bacteria test free. It is a 2 to 3 day test.
Chemical analysis of your water is also a consideration. Some people test before and after their filters to see if they are doing what is required (since you already have the filters running I would just test after and see if the results are satisfactory).
In BC, Canada we have DRINKING WATER GUIDELINES which outlines all the chemical, physical and biological characteristics public water needs to meet and we apply it to wells as well, you should be able to search that to help decipher any results you get.
Water companies can totally get you...we have soft water here and people still end up putting in softeners, so now they have soft water with lots of Ca, Mg, but still have a multitude of other problems (like bacteria).
Look for a CERTIFIED lab. We are CAEAL and ISO certified. So look for the same type of credentials or you are just throwing your money away.
Kara
Chemical analysis of your water is also a consideration. Some people test before and after their filters to see if they are doing what is required (since you already have the filters running I would just test after and see if the results are satisfactory).
In BC, Canada we have DRINKING WATER GUIDELINES which outlines all the chemical, physical and biological characteristics public water needs to meet and we apply it to wells as well, you should be able to search that to help decipher any results you get.
Water companies can totally get you...we have soft water here and people still end up putting in softeners, so now they have soft water with lots of Ca, Mg, but still have a multitude of other problems (like bacteria).
Look for a CERTIFIED lab. We are CAEAL and ISO certified. So look for the same type of credentials or you are just throwing your money away.
Kara
Awesome Kara, I will be looking into this. If I can't find much I may have you guy test it for me since you are already pretty close.A bacteria test at our lab runs $40. The cost for the test is almost $20 for supplies/time so likely you wont get a bacteria test free. It is a 2 to 3 day test.
Chemical analysis of your water is also a consideration. Some people test before and after their filters to see if they are doing what is required (since you already have the filters running I would just test after and see if the results are satisfactory).
In BC, Canada we have DRINKING WATER GUIDELINES which outlines all the chemical, physical and biological characteristics public water needs to meet and we apply it to wells as well, you should be able to search that to help decipher any results you get.
Water companies can totally get you...we have soft water here and people still end up putting in softeners, so now they have soft water with lots of Ca, Mg, but still have a multitude of other problems (like bacteria).
Look for a CERTIFIED lab. We are CAEAL and ISO certified. So look for the same type of credentials or you are just throwing your money away.
Kara
I called my friends who work with salmon. They said they are on well water as well and have thier water tested frequently here http://www.edgeanalytical.com/
I cannot find certifications but he was almost sure they are.
This is their pricing:
drinking water Testing
Name Methods Prices
Total Organic Carbon (TOC) SM5310 C $ 38.00
Disinfectants
Chloramine SM4500-CI G $141.00
Chlorine 330.5, SM4500-CI B $16.00
Disinfection Byproducts
Bromate 300.1 $35.00
Chlorite 300.1 $35.00
Halo-Acetic Acids 552.2 $140.00
Total Trihalomethanes 524.2 $81.00
Inorganic Compounds
Arsenic Low Level (2ppb) 200.8 $18.00
Chloride 300 $18.00
Complete Inorganic Compounds (IOC) call for complete list $289.00
Lead and Copper Rule 200.8 $22.00
Nitrate 300 $18.00
Primary Standards: Sb,As,Ba,Be,Cd,Cr,Cu,CN,F,Pb,Hg,Ni,NO3-, NO2-N, Se,Na,Tl,Turbidity call for complete list $225.00
Secondary Standards: Ag,Fe,Mn,Zn,Cl,Color,Conductivity,Sulfates,TDS call for complete list $92.00
Organic Compounds
Carbamates 531.1 $215.00
Diquat 549 $141.00
Disinfection By-Products: --- ---
EDB/DBCP 504.1 $105.00
Endothall 548.1 $130.00
Glyphosate 547 $118.00
Halo-Acetic Acids (HAAs) 552.1 $140.00
Haloacetonitriles and Chloral Hydrate 551 $145.00
Herbicides 515.1 $175.00
Maximum Total Trihalomethanes Potential (MTTP) 510.1 $125.00
Pesticides 525.2 $355.00
Synthetic Organic Compounds ( incl. PCB screen) 525, 515, 531 $590.00
Trihalomethanes (THMs) 524.2 $81.00
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) 524.2 $175.00
Radio
Cesium-134 901.1 $106.00
Gross Alpha 900 $90.00
Gross Alpha and Beta 900 $90.00
Gross Beta 900 $90.00
Iodine-131 901.1 $106.00
Radium-226 903 $90.00
Radium-228 3M (disc) $90.00
Radon-222 913 $65.00
Strontium-90 905 $222.00
Tritium 906 $95.00
Uranium-234,-235,-238 7500U $125.00
UCMR2
List 1 - assessment monitoring 527, 529 $575.00
List 2 - screening survey 525.5, 535, 521 $865.00
Awesome, 24 hour turnaround, $15 for testing presence or absence of bacteria.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
The Planted Tank Forum
A forum community dedicated to Aquatic tank owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about flora, fauna, health, housing, filters, care, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
