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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I understand how aeration or vigorous filtration can negatively affect the amount of carbon dioxide in the water. At the same time, I am wondering how to keep the water circulating in order to keep water temperatures pretty much equal throughout the tank. So far I have no answers that address both concerns sucessfully. Any comments? I have not yet started introducing carbon dioxide - will this m ake up for the filtration I now have going in the tank?
 

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Water circulation and surface agitation are NOT the same thing.

You can have great flow in a tank (high circulation, which is important to keep the CO2 and nutrients distributed throughout the tank and to prevent dead spots where debris can build up and contribute to poor water quality and algae) and little to no surface agitation (which is the worst out-gass-er). Keep your filter returns aimed well below the surface of the water and you're good.
 

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I think its hilarious when people get offended because they don't like the answers that are given to them, especially when they are completely vague on their tank setup.
 

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On a more constructive note, a canister type filter will always be superior to a Hang on Back style in conserving CO2. With the canister you still have to make sure the output is directed well below the surface. To help mitigate CO2 loss with a HOB you must keep the water level high as possible to the output ramp.
 

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if you have a hang-on-back (HOB) power filter, keep the water up to the bottom of the return.

If you have a canister filter, get a spray bar and install it below the surface of the water, and aim it away from the surface.

If you need additional circulation, get a powerhead or a circulation pump like a Koralia.
 

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got a quick comment/que for the CO2 pros here... wouldn't it work regardless of much surface agitation, if u increase the output of CO2 in ur tank?

I've got a XP3 & a HOB filter goin on my 55 gallon (since the XP3 is new). my surface agitation is not that much, since the HOB drop is below the water level, n the XP is outputting in an angle. the drop check stays @ green all day. just asking, so maybe OP has a 50 lb tank like mine (lol), n can just turn up the CO2 rate.... just a thought. :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the help. I know nothing about canister filters but will check into them. I'm trying to keep expenses down, though. This will be my first foray into CO2, and I will be setting up a DIY CO2 reactor as soon as I finish some planting today or tomorrow. It may be needless to say that I knew enough to bring my water level high enough to prevent splashing by the HOB filter return, but I wll say it anyway - I was looking for any other solutions.
 

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I am not sure this will help but I plan on adding 2 PH's for circulation in my 120 and I will be attaching them to mag floats and putting them near the bottom of the tank in hopes of keeping things suspended off the bottom for the filters to take out.
 

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Thanks for the help. I know nothing about canister filters but will check into them. I'm trying to keep expenses down, though. This will be my first foray into CO2, and I will be setting up a DIY CO2 reactor as soon as I finish some planting today or tomorrow. It may be needless to say that I knew enough to bring my water level high enough to prevent splashing by the HOB filter return, but I wll say it anyway - I was looking for any other solutions.
You need not have to purchase all neccessary equipments brand new! My whole list of equipments are used, except for my M.H bulbs.

K.C
 

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Using powerheads to boost flow and/or distribute CO2 is another option to increase flow w/out surface agitation.

(Was anyone offended in this thread? :icon_ques LOL)
I know I wasnt offended at all because I have a decent understanding of reef tanks but not sure what I can carry over to a planted. I feel the best way to learn is to have discussions with different ideas and if somebodies feelings get hurt I am sorry but the more expierenced people have probably tried some of the things we might be thinking of and can tell us why it does or doesnt work.
 

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In my 120gallon i have 2 canisters with the output well below the water line so as to not off-gas the C02, and regarding in-tank flow i have 2 koralia pumps ( one on either end of the tank ) that create great flow.

i think this is the way to go imho.
 

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Thanks for the help. I know nothing about canister filters but will check into them. I'm trying to keep expenses down, though...
like everyone says, canister filter will be the best option for plants & filtration on any tank, but HOB is fine if that's all u got to work w/... most of us are in a tight (or student) budget here. I got me an used XP3 on craigslist, and my lighting are shoplights from Homedepot! just keep an eye out for good deal, it'll eventually come together... g'luck man. :biggrin:
 

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I am going to try splitting my canister filter return (Fluval 405) and attaching the ends to 2, 20" spray bars that will sit verically in the rear corners of the tank (75g). Each spray bar will have 1/4" to 1/2" holes drilled every 1", down the length. I'm not sure if the Fluval has the gph power to accomplish this, but I'm going to give it a try. If it works it should greatly increase the water circulation throughout the whole tank. Anyone have any comments/suggestions about this?
 
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