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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So I use a python system for water changing in order to keep everything as simple as possible. No more buckets! My water parameters are very low on GH and KH 20ppm and 0ppm. I remineralize with salty shrimp GH/KH+. Now the way I do it is use the python system to drain 50% and fill it back up. Then I scoop some water out of the tank and dissolve the salty shrimp for the amount of water I added and pour it back in. But the problem with this is, the shrimp will be subject to changing water parameters first from the drop of GH when I fill up and then increase of GH when I pour in the minerals. I also need to get a TDS meter for more accuracy.

From everything I’ve been reading, shrimp need consistency to thrive and breed. I want to keep neocaridina. I have the following questions for the shrimp wizards here.

1. Will The way I do water changes affect the shrimp?
2.Or could I just leave out the salty shrimp all together, let them acclimate to my tap water and just feed some cuttlebone every now and then for calcium?
2.a)Will they breed in these conditions?
3.What about crushed corals?

I’ve been spinning my head over this for the past two weeks and was wondering if anybody here had some insight.


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OK, so I'm not a shrimp wizard. You do have to be something of a wizard to keep shrimp. That's funny but true. So great, you got this Python and can easily get the water out of your tank. Now what I would do is get a power head with some hose and use that to move mixed water into the tank. You would fill a bucket or two or three by the tank with your Python then use the powerhead to mix the water for a few minutes. Then you attach a hose to the powerhead to fill your tank from the bucket(s). Or you could mix up a gallon of GH concentrate to add to your water as you fill with your Python. I'm able to mix all my salts pretty well in just half a gallon of water with vigorous shaking. So maybe a GH concentrate would be a good way to go. You just keep shaking it as you add it.
 

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I would go with your option 2.

You do not need to be a wizard to keep shrimp. Like everything else, they need the right balance. I have a 75G dirted tank, heavily planted, and pretty soft well water, and very low gH. I have dozens, likely hundreds of shrimp.

The question you should ask yourself is: Do I want my water change routine to include chemistry 101, or do I want to keep it simple. (based on the Python purchase, you are looking for simple) Add some cuddle bone/crushed coral, and you can let it be.
 

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How big is your tank? A 50% water change is too much in a shrimp only tank unless you are way overfeeding them or have lots of rotting plants, or shrimp bodies lying around. The massive water change alone will mess with the shrimp. Salty Shrimp is easiest when mixed with water in 1 scoop per 3 gallons of RO water. For me that equates to a 30% water change because I keep in Tenners. I do have a 38G that gets a 9 gallon change. If you are using tap water, you really need to get a test kit and get a grip on your complete tap water parameters. A TDS meter can help, especially for knowing when it is best to do a water change. The way you are adding the minerals during water changes is kind of severe. I have 3 gallon refillable water bottles (Walmart) that I do water changes with. I take out 3 gallons, remineralize 3 gallons of RO water with one scoop of Salty Shrimp and use airline tubing to add it back to the tank.
If you add cuttle bone, just put a piece behind your filter or some other innocuous place and leave it there. The shrimp will find it. If you decide to use straight tap water, just slowly increase the tap water (de-chlored) vs treated (Salty Shrimp) water ratio over the course of a few weeks and forego the Salty Shrimp.
Your shrimp will breed when they get comfortable and stable water parameters. They have a really low bio-load and water changes need not be done weekly. A water parameter test kit can also help you know when to change the water. If nitrates start to creep up, it is time to change the water. Avoid sudden changes or large changes to the shrimps' environment to keep them stress free.
I believe crushed coral is a pH adjuster. Neo shrimp can handle a pretty good range of pH, so I really would not mess with that too much.
Put a piece of nylon (knee hi, etc) over the end of your python and secure it with a rubber band. This will keep your future babies from being slurped up during water changes.
 

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I would go with your option 2.

You do not need to be a wizard to keep shrimp. Like everything else, they need the right balance. I have a 75G dirted tank, heavily planted, and pretty soft well water, and very low gH. I have dozens, likely hundreds of shrimp.

The question you should ask yourself is: Do I want my water change routine to include chemistry 101, or do I want to keep it simple. (based on the Python purchase, you are looking for simple) Add some cuddle bone/crushed coral, and you can let it be.
That's easy for a shrimp wizard to say. You're a shrimp wizard and don't know it. Some people have a hard time with shrimp.
 
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I agree with @Savetheplants and @Turningdizzy

Decide on what water parameters you want in the tank, then just pre-mix your fresh water in a bucket. I use 1 gallon pitchers and a large tube (the standard airline hose could fit inside this larger tube) for water changes, but I store my water (I use RO) in 5 gallon buckets.


I did not do well with Neos... especially in water with 3 GH and 3 KH. They slowly died off... except the offspring! They died even faster! Not enough minerals in the water...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
@DoubleB ;

Honestly that is the answer I was hoping for. I really I just want to drain and fill. But everywhere in reading it seems to be suboptimal for breeding. You seem to have a different experience. That’s reassuring.


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How big is your tank? A 50% water change is too much in a shrimp only tank unless you are way overfeeding them or have lots of rotting plants, or shrimp bodies lying around. The massive water change alone will mess with the shrimp. Salty Shrimp is easiest when mixed with water in 1 scoop per 3 gallons of RO water. For me that equates to a 30% water change because I keep in Tenners. I do have a 38G that gets a 9 gallon change. If you are using tap water, you really need to get a test kit and get a grip on your complete tap water parameters. A TDS meter can help, especially for knowing when it is best to do a water change. The way you are adding the minerals during water changes is kind of severe. I have 3 gallon refillable water bottles (Walmart) that I do water changes with. I take out 3 gallons, remineralize 3 gallons of RO water with one scoop of Salty Shrimp and use airline tubing to add it back to the tank.
If you add cuttle bone, just put a piece behind your filter or some other innocuous place and leave it there. The shrimp will find it. If you decide to use straight tap water, just slowly increase the tap water (de-chlored) vs treated (Salty Shrimp) water ratio over the course of a few weeks and forego the Salty Shrimp.
Your shrimp will breed when they get comfortable and stable water parameters. They have a really low bio-load and water changes need not be done weekly. A water parameter test kit can also help you know when to change the water. If nitrates start to creep up, it is time to change the water. Avoid sudden changes or large changes to the shrimps' environment to keep them stress free.
I believe crushed coral is a pH adjuster. Neo shrimp can handle a pretty good range of pH, so I really would not mess with that too much.
Put a piece of nylon (knee hi, etc) over the end of your python and secure it with a rubber band. This will keep your future babies from being slurped up during water changes.
I have a 22 gallon tank. It’s been set up for just over a month. I’m a beginner. This is my second tank so that is why I chose to try neocaridina. My only livestock so far a 3 nerites and 5 amanos. It is indeed a small bio load but the reason I’m doing 50% water changes is because I read it is recommended when following EI fertilizer dosing.




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I have 3 gallon refillable water bottles (Walmart) that I do water changes with. I take out 3 gallons, remineralize 3 gallons of RO water with one scoop of Salty Shrimp and use airline tubing to add it back to the tank.
This is brilliant. There are three Amano Shrimp in my tank. I have a wide mouth five gallon bottle I could do this with. I would apply the airline on the inside of the jug with suction cups. This would be better than just dumping my mixed RO water into the tank like I'm doing now. I like how it cannot overflow because you've measured how much water you've taken out. Like the OP, I have to do 50% water changes since I'm doing EI. So maybe water changes every three days would be safer?
I have a 22 gallon tank. It’s been set up for just over a month. I’m a beginner. This is my second tank so that is why I chose to try neocaridina. My only livestock so far a 3 nerites and 5 amanos. It is indeed a small bio load but the reason I’m doing 50% water changes is because I read it is recommended when following EI fertilizer dosing.




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That's some incredible aquascaping for a beginner. It's like you painted the Mona Lisa your first, OK second try. I'm astounded.
 
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From everything I’ve been reading, shrimp need consistency to thrive and breed. I want to keep neocaridina. I have the following questions for the shrimp wizards here.
I’ve been spinning my head over this for the past two weeks and was wondering if anybody here had some insight.
I do a 40-50% weekly water change with tap water using a Python. All I add is Prime. Our city water is somewhat hard. I started out with about 12 "Bloody Mary" shrimp and now probably have over 100+ in my 75g heavily planted tank. I have actually started giving them away.

I think that shrimp are pretty resilient. I would just add a small group and see how it goes.

BTW. Nice scape!
 

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@DoubleB ;

Honestly that is the answer I was hoping for. I really I just want to drain and fill. But everywhere in reading it seems to be suboptimal for breeding. You seem to have a different experience. That’s reassuring.


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I have found that consistency always beats working harder than you need to, striving for perfection. Also happens to translate well to aquariums ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I do a 40-50% weekly water change with tap water using a Python. All I add is Prime. Our city water is somewhat hard. I started out with about 12 "Bloody Mary" shrimp and now probably have over 100+ in my 75g heavily planted tank. I have actually started giving them away.

I think that shrimp are pretty resilient. I would just add a small group and see how it goes.

BTW. Nice scape!
This is how I’m gonna approach it. I’m gonna keep up my water changes without remineralizing and in about two weeks the GH and KH should be close to tap water. Then I’ll try some neo’s and hope for the best


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I have found that consistency always beats working harder than you need to, striving for perfection. Also happens to translate well to aquariums ;)
Yea after lugging around buckets for a year for my first tank I’m all about simplicity and automation.


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This is brilliant. There are three Amano Shrimp in my tank. I have a wide mouth five gallon bottle I could do this with. I would apply the airline on the inside of the jug with suction cups. This would be better than just dumping my mixed RO water into the tank like I'm doing now. I like how it cannot overflow because you've measured how much water you've taken out. Like the OP, I have to do 50% water changes since I'm doing EI. So maybe water changes every three days would be safer?

That's some incredible aquascaping for a beginner. It's like you painted the Mona Lisa your first, OK second try. I'm astounded.
Haha thank you for the love been doing a lot of research and watching a lot of Green Aqua.


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I frequently do 50%-70% water changes. I fill straight from the tap, and just pour the GH booster in while filling. I have kept neos and caridina like this for years without issue.

You probably don't need to do full EI in your tank, you don't have much plant mass. You could probably get away with 1/2 EI or even lower, until you start to see the plants suffering. That way you don't have to do such big water changes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I frequently do 50%-70% water changes. I fill straight from the tap, and just pour the GH booster in while filling. I have kept neos and caridina like this for years without issue.

You probably don't need to do full EI in your tank, you don't have much plant mass. You could probably get away with 1/2 EI or even lower, until you start to see the plants suffering. That way you don't have to do such big water changes!
I actually have a lot of background plants. This picture is right after a trim. My rotala h’ra and rotala green are on the left behind the rocks and on the right I have rotala amania bonsai. The bonsai however has barely grown 2 inches maybe. While the h’ra and green on the left have reached the surface. Another mystery for me to tackle lol


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This is how I’m gonna approach it. I’m gonna keep up my water changes without remineralizing and in about two weeks the GH and KH should be close to tap water. Then I’ll try some neo’s and hope for the best
I suspect that DoubleB's water may be 3-5 times harder than your own water.... if not a tad higher...

As you said, your GH is basically 1?


So you might be setting yourself up for failure. Please be aware of this when you get the Neos.
 

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Except with higher KH.... GH isn't much higher...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

Except with higher KH.... GH isn't much higher...
Yeah I decided to just remineralize in a bucket and pump the water up into the tank. It kind of defeats the purpose of me getting a python but oh well .


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