The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question about canister filters and uv sterilizers along with lily pipes. I figured out what side pipes/hoses, etc to make the lily pipe work (with generous help from you kind folks), but can I also have a uv sterilizer on my canister filter as well as a lily pipe? The one I was looking at is the Smart High Output UV 80 Watt from Pentair Aquatics. I want to attach this to my Fluval FV6 as well as using a lily pipe. Is his possible? I also have a CO2 system, but I know you do not attach these to the filter. I was watching a video and this guy used the term "return." Does that mean outtake? I know lily pipes generally go on the intake side.



Thanks.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,921 Posts
I have a question about canister filters and uv sterilizers along with lily pipes. I figured out what side pipes/hoses, etc to make the lily pipe work (with generous help from you kind folks), but can I also have a uv sterilizer on my canister filter as well as a lily pipe? The one I was looking at is the Smart High Output UV 80 Watt from Pentair Aquatics. I want to attach this to my Fluval FV6 as well as using a lily pipe. Is his possible? I also have a CO2 system, but I know you do not attach these to the filter. I was watching a video and this guy used the term "return." Does that mean outtake? I know lily pipes generally go on the intake side.



Thanks.


So there are a few things that seem mixed up here. Yes you can have an external uv filter with a canister filter, also you could have an external heater if you chose to do so. Whats important is sizing the uv filter to the amount of flow you have. You could for instance take the output from your fluval fx 6 and split it so most of it goes to your main lily pipe into the tank and the rest to a smaller hose with a ball valve controlling the flow. That way you could use a much smaller and cheaper uv sterilizer. This would be how I would do it if I really wanted UV on a canister filter tank since the UV you mentioned costs almost 800 dollars....

I probably should have asked this before but what size tank is this?

As for intake and return. The intake is where water gets sucked up into the hoses that go to your filter. The return is the line that comes out of the filter and goes back into the tank. Lily pipes is a general term these days that refer to the intake and return together with the intake being the piece that with tiny holes (or prefilter sponge) on it that sticks straight down into the tank. The return is the one that (can but does not necessarily) look like a lily. Sometimes it just looks like a pipe or even a little glass circle. Hopefully this is helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So there are a few things that seem mixed up here. Yes you can have an external uv filter with a canister filter, also you could have an external heater if you chose to do so. Whats important is sizing the uv filter to the amount of flow you have. You could for instance take the output from your fluval fx 6 and split it so most of it goes to your main lily pipe into the tank and the rest to a smaller hose with a ball valve controlling the flow. That way you could use a much smaller and cheaper uv sterilizer. This would be how I would do it if I really wanted UV on a canister filter tank since the UV you mentioned costs almost 800 dollars....

I probably should have asked this before but what size tank is this?

As for intake and return. The intake is where water gets sucked up into the hoses that go to your filter. The return is the line that comes out of the filter and goes back into the tank. Lily pipes is a general term these days that refer to the intake and return together with the intake being the piece that with tiny holes (or prefilter sponge) on it that sticks straight down into the tank. The return is the one that (can but does not necessarily) look like a lily. Sometimes it just looks like a pipe or even a little glass circle. Hopefully this is helpful.
My tank size is 90 gallon although it measures 36 inch length, 24 inch width, and 24 inch height. From what research I have done this is an unusual size. It has made background for the tank and other details more difficult. The tank is rimless. The reason I wanted that particular UV sterilizer was reading about these things I learned that many of the sterilizers that claim to work are not in fact true sterilizers. I wanted to reduce any algae issues since I will be using CO2 diffuser and a very powerful light. Perhaps it's overkill. I don't know really. I tried to find the best of each item since I have never had an aquarium before, but have been an avid gardener. Because the heater is submersible and the powerhead at the top, I thought a lily pipe would make the aquasccape lay out not be as problematic aesthetically with a huge hose from the fluval fx6. Perhaps it would be helpful to let you know my set-up for suggestions.

90 gal rimless aquarium from SCA (36x24x24); Custom with overflow box removed
Smart High Output UV 80 Watt - Pentair Aquatics
Gyre XF350 Pump Kit with Controller (5280 GPH) - Maxspect
600W Titanium Aquarium Heater System - WiFi - Bulk Reef Supply
2 Kessil A360X Tuna Blue LED Lights with WiFi Dongle & Two Mounting Arms Package
Fluval FX6 canister filter
JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe Inflow Outflow Set 20mm for 3/4" ID
GLA PRO-DS-1 Aquarium CO2 System (Dual Stage) (Modular) (Advanced)

I want to use crushed lava rock as a bottom layer with ADA amendments but Dennerle Scraper substrate mixed with Seachem Gray Coast. It had been suggested that ADA Amazonia was not as good of a substrate, but to make it better, it was suggested to combine it with something like Gray Coast. I chose Dennerle because of how it affects the PH and is not as messy as Amazonia. I also do not think that it is used up like Amazonia as fast. I want to grow various carpeting plants, crypts, and other species (no anubas, no java ferns/moss). I am using Frodo Stone. I know the planting and substrate info does not give you insight into my equipment, but I wanted to give you an idea of what I wanted to do. All of the plants except maybe four are cultures. I also want to use several cherry and amano shrimp along with a few nerite snails. Dennerle, I heard was also good for shrimp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,921 Posts
From never having an aquarium before you are definitely jumping off the deep end! :)

While UV filters will single handedly eliminate green water algae it won't do much of anything to algae that develops on wood and rocks. The worst algae outbreak in a tank I've ever had was in one with a uv bulb built into a filter.

Keeping algae at bay is mostly about balancing light to nutrients and co2. If you have too much nutrients or too much light or not enough co2 then you get algae. Having algae eating critters helps a lot. Personally I would not put nerite snails in a tank again. They lay eggs everywhere that a little white sesame seed shaped things and they are difficult to remove from glass and much harder to remove from hardscape. Instead I would go with ramshorn snails. They will reproduce but not to the insane levels as say pond snails or trumpet snails. Having amanos is a very good idea.

Speaking of nutrient balance, you haven't mentioned which fertilizer system you will be following. You definitely need one. Unlike terrestrial plants, aquatic plants will need a near constant influx of nutrients to stay healthy. This is because even though you will be using aquasoil, the aquasoil itself does not have much nutrients in it. This is intentional, if it had more nutrients algae growth would be even harder to control. What is there will also get depleted pretty quickly (weeks or months after setting up). Thus a regular regimine of fertilizer is key to plant happiness. The easiest solution is an all in one fertilizer. There are quite a few options but most popular here is Nicolg Thrive.

Anyway my point is that 800 dollars is a LOT of money to pay for a UV sterilizer. Most folks consider UV a luxury add on that is best added when using a sump when its cheap and easy to make effective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From never having an aquarium before you are definitely jumping off the deep end! :)

While UV filters will single handedly eliminate green water algae it won't do much of anything to algae that develops on wood and rocks. The worst algae outbreak in a tank I've ever had was in one with a uv bulb built into a filter.

Keeping algae at bay is mostly about balancing light to nutrients and co2. If you have too much nutrients or too much light or not enough co2 then you get algae. Having algae eating critters helps a lot. Personally I would not put nerite snails in a tank again. They lay eggs everywhere that a little white sesame seed shaped things and they are difficult to remove from glass and much harder to remove from hardscape. Instead I would go with ramshorn snails. They will reproduce but not to the insane levels as say pond snails or trumpet snails. Having amanos is a very good idea.

Speaking of nutrient balance, you haven't mentioned which fertilizer system you will be following. You definitely need one. Unlike terrestrial plants, aquatic plants will need a near constant influx of nutrients to stay healthy. This is because even though you will be using aquasoil, the aquasoil itself does not have much nutrients in it. This is intentional, if it had more nutrients algae growth would be even harder to control. What is there will also get depleted pretty quickly (weeks or months after setting up). Thus a regular regimine of fertilizer is key to plant happiness. The easiest solution is an all in one fertilizer. There are quite a few options but most popular here is Nicolg Thrive.

Anyway my point is that 800 dollars is a LOT of money to pay for a UV sterilizer. Most folks consider UV a luxury add on that is best added when using a sump when its cheap and easy to make effective.
Thank you so much! You're so cool. I had heard about that egg issue with nerite, but I worried about reproduction. I will check out those other snails. I had looked at fertilizer, but I did not know about Nicolg Thrive. The one I heard about was from Aquarium Co-Op called Easy Green in combination with Easy Iron and Easy Carbon for pesky algae. I know about algae on rocks, but with the algae eaters and weekly water changes, maybe it will help. Sometimes you have to just get in there with a toothbrush and remove it by hand. I do want want some algae for these snails and shrimp though. I never go beyond the recommended dose on these fertilizers. I know you could and you could do more CO2, but that could increase algae production.



My main struggle with all of this is installation because I am not best at plumbing or putting stuff together. I do have a friend who is and will help, but I want to make sure I have the right size hoses and reducers, etc.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top