The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I made a post a while ago when I did a similar build for my 25 gallon tank. I wanted to go further with this build, give myself more adjustability and room for future expansion.

I just finished building one of Hydrophytes cedar stand designs (pics of stand and tank tommorow) which I applied this set up to.


Tools:

Power drill
Drill press (optional, but recommended)
3/8", 1/2", 1 1/8" spade bits (wood)
3/16" metal bit
Wrench
Hammer
20L (5G) pale
2 Pieces of pipe (any type, 20" approx length)
Pliers


Materials:

3/8" aluminum rod (I used 2 5' lengths, more than I needed)
*Machine thread eye bolts (I used the smallest I could find)
*Two matching locking nuts for eye bolts
**Two T-nuts (I used 5/16")
**Two matching 3" hex bolts
Two finger knobs for hex bolts (optional)
Small airplane cable (I used 48")
Crimps for cable

Examples of Eye bolts and T-Nuts

Eye Bolt
http://www.biconet.com/birds/GIFs/stealth/acc/eyeBolt2.jpg

T-Nut
http://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_tnut.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-updg-3_kw/TiVtguqBXMI/AAAAAAAAA7w/sbBQTSJ1TpU/s1600/prong_t_nut.jpg

Hex bolt
http://www.bombayharbor.com/productImage/0812294001230089250/Hex_Bolt.jpg


This is how it looks assembled



Front top to bottom I drilled a 3/8" hole with the drill press for the rod to slide into. From the back about halfway through the post I drilled a 1 1/8" hole for the t-nut to sit inside. And from center of that the rest of the way i drilled a 1/2" hole to allow the hex bolt to be threaded into the t-nut from the front.

Note the black knobs, they just sit over the hex head of the bolt so you dont need a wrench to tighten or loosen them. They aren't needed, but I liked using them.

Back view of 1 1/8" hole with T-NUT mounted inside.



Back view of rod through 3/8" hole running infront of T-NUT




For the rod assembly, with a little help I bent the rods over the 20L (5G) pale using two pieces of piping (electrical conduit is what I had on hand) for leverage, one at a time checking against eachother to have them match. To mount the cable to the light I tore apart the light, then drilled 4 smalls holes and ran the cable inside. I used a crimp to hold the cable inside the light for a clean look. After that, I found my center for the light and drilled a 3/16" hole to mount my eye bolts.








Doing it this way made it so I am able to adjust my light anywhere I would like to. As well as swing it out of the way when I'm doing quick maintenance. I did a total of 4 of these across the back of the stand. I'm only the two most outer ones for my light now, but did two more in the center in case I ever switch to two smaller pendant or MH lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
I love the look of your cedar stand. I didn't like those metal nailing plates on the outside and I'd love more details on how you made yours without them as I'm in the process of planning a couple for myself. One for a 20L and a future 75 or even 150gal tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I built mine in the same way he did his, i just used small corner brackets hidden in behind. I also toe screwed and glued all the joints for extra strength (overkill though). I am making a shelf for it also, I'm just stealing a scrap from work tommorow and cutting it to size.

I have plans to build one of these for all of my tanks. I am lucky and know the owner of Kanaka Cedar Mill, one of the best mills in this part of Canada. I was able to get beautiful old growth cedar, true 4x4 and 2x4 for an absolute steal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
That looks great! I love the idea of being able to swing the light outof the way for tank work. Sharp stand, too - nice clean lines...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
I look forward to several close up shots of your corners to see exactly how you did it. If I can see it 3D in my mind, I can build it. That light mounting system is right in line with my KISS philosophy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
How's the racking resistance?

Can you get it to wiggle if you really try to?

I glued and clamped 2x6 redwood together for the corners and then glued and clamped mitered picture frame flat style 2x4 redwood for the top and bottom. I've got a 400# tank on it and it's still rock solid 27 years later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Woah... I don't know if your joints are going to cut it. I'm sure if you tried you could push one of the horizontal pieces down about a centimeter. Is there anything but those brackets holding the stand together?



The light hanger is really nice though. How much did the rod cost?
Glue, and i used 4" pan heads to toe screw each joint also. Read the thread. I know what im doing.

The first time I bought the rod I paid 3$ a foot, and bought two 4' lengths at my local Rona
This time, I paid .30$ per foot, and bought two 5" lengths from work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
Did you use any softwood jointing such as biscuits, dowels, ect?

I've found the main purpose of screws is to hold the wood together while the glue dries LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,985 Posts
Glue, and i used 4" pan heads to toe screw each joint also. Read the thread. I know what im doing.

The first time I bought the rod I paid 3$ a foot, and bought two 4' lengths at my local Rona
This time, I paid .30$ per foot, and bought two 5" lengths from work.

It seems you do know what you're doing, I was just checking. I missed the screw holes at first. The glue should be more than strong enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
ikine,

did you leave enough space for your tank to sit on? The holes looks like they are close to the inner side of the wood, which is where the tank will sit. Nice idea nonetheless.


keithy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I made the stand 2 3/4" over sized front to back, and 1/2" over sized across the length. That gave me 1/4" reveal on the front and two sides of the tank. Also gave me 2 1/2" of space at the back to run all my wires, filter pipes, and light mounts.

In hindsight 2 1/2" was over kill, I could have gotten away with 1 3/4".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I thought I would update a little on the stand.

I was having an issue supporting the weight of the light. Because aluminum is so flexible it was pulling down the rods to the point where I would lose some adjustment. So I came up with these.



The rod sits through the hole, and the wider flat side sits against the back of the tank. This holds the rods back and straight with the weight of the light on it. It also makes it so dependent on where i place the brackets (various locations vertically along the back of the tank) it gives me more adjustment to move the light forward and back.

I made these out of solid maple scraps at work, sealed and laquered them. You could easily make these out of almost any material, even thick cardboard. I first used scrap clear plastic lying around the house to make my template. Even those alone would have worked but I opted for something a little nicer.

I haven't put them on the tank yet, I'll get pics if I get around to it today lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Very good tip - bowing of the rods under weight would be a "Doh!" moment for me ; )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The bowing wasn't as bad as one might think. It just looked awful to me so I needed to address it.

So far other than that the stand, tank, and lighting are all up and running good. I put a nice dual 24" T5NO fixture in the bottom opening of the tank, and I'm in the process of working on a auto watering system for some plants I'm putting underneath.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top