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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to sell a Fluval 17w CFL light I have. It was behind my stand and I tried to pull it out, but I just realized the wire to the lamp is under my 55g, and the 55g is full...

Is there any way for me to get the wire out from under the tank without draining it?
 

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I want to sell a Fluval 17w CFL light I have. It was behind my stand and I tried to pull it out, but I just realized the wire to the lamp is under my 55g, and the 55g is full...

Is there any way for me to get the wire out from under the tank without draining it?
Holy crap....you are lucky you have not burst a seam on the tank with that kind of pressure point. I would drain immediately (pretty much till its empty...substrate removed etc) and get it out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Holy crap....you are lucky you have not burst a seam on the tank with that kind of pressure point. I would drain immediately (pretty much till its empty...substrate removed etc) and get it out of there.
I don't think it will do anything. It's just the cord-- not the actual head or metal prongs. I just wanted it out because I paid $35 for it and never use it, I was gonna sell it on here for $20. :p
 

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Is it under the tank? Or is it under the stand?

If its under the tank that's bad.
Put the fish in buckets, and drain the tank,

When you return the fish to the tank just make sure you acclimate them to the new water.

If its under the stand....yank it out. If it breaks off and crack you in the face, go the cord and get a bandaid. Lol :)

Or drain the Tank and lull it out.


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i have to agree with these guys. If its under the tank, thats putting alot of uneven stress and pressure on the seems of the tank. Aquariums need to be evenly supported on the bottom, if not....bad things can happen.

If its under the stand, i probably wouldnt worry too much about it. I would probably forget about getting that light sold though. Atleast not with out draining the tank first...
 

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Not good

I know from personal experience that having a tank set up with uneven pressure on the frame is NOT a good thing even if it is not doing anything right now it will.... If it is under the tank drain it and move it..... Just say'n :(
 

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First we need to know where it is located. Between the floor and stand is much better and likely to be simple.
Where the cord is is likely to have some small space next to it. This gives you a good chance to lift the stand the small amount needed. Drain most of the water to reduce the weight. Then it will depend on what type floor covering it has. Carpet is simple as you can compress it and drive a shim under to lift the stand. All you need is 1/4 inch of lift. Depending on where the strong points are on the stand will determine where to drive the shims. Work slow and don't force it so hard you break the stand bottom.

With the wire between the tank and stand, you have a bigger problem. This will likely take two people. Drain the tank as far as possible. Get a strong friend to lift the tank end just enough to slide the cord out. One to lift, one to pull the cord. Make sure they do NOT lift with the rim. They will have to "bear hug" the tank and lift that way. Takes muscle but I tilted a 75 last night and most of your friends are likely to be as strong as me. If not, consider getting new friends!

Do some prep work before starting either. Get storage containers and have water ready to go back. Best will be storing 30-50% of the old water and adding new. How much new water is okay depends on how much water treatment you normally do to your tap water. Make it match as close as possible to avoid big changes.
 

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First we need to know where it is located. Between the floor and stand is much better and likely to be simple.
Where the cord is is likely to have some small space next to it. This gives you a good chance to lift the stand the small amount needed. Drain most of the water to reduce the weight. Then it will depend on what type floor covering it has. Carpet is simple as you can compress it and drive a shim under to lift the stand. All you need is 1/4 inch of lift. Depending on where the strong points are on the stand will determine where to drive the shims. Work slow and don't force it so hard you break the stand bottom.

With the wire between the tank and stand, you have a bigger problem. This will likely take two people. Drain the tank as far as possible. Get a strong friend to lift the tank end just enough to slide the cord out. One to lift, one to pull the cord. Make sure they do NOT lift with the rim. They will have to "bear hug" the tank and lift that way. Takes muscle but I tilted a 75 last night and most of your friends are likely to be as strong as me. If not, consider getting new friends!

Do some prep work before starting either. Get storage containers and have water ready to go back. Best will be storing 30-50% of the old water and adding new. How much new water is okay depends on how much water treatment you normally do to your tap water. Make it match as close as possible to avoid big changes.
Ok cause I thought it was just me that figured the easy thing would be to do a 50% water change and lift/tilt tank when lightened to remove the cord. The tank will appreciate the WC or you can just refill it with the water you removed.
 
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