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What is the best way to prevent snails when introducing new plants? I am thinking about setting up a farm tank where I can keep plants for a while and treat with something to kill the invaders.
 

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Alum dip.
Stronger dose = shorter time.
Milder dose = longer time.

Set up the quarantine tank and add Alum to it.

Copper will also kill snails, but seems to be somewhat residual. I have no idea if it would cling to the leaves, but it seems to stick around in the substrate. If you treated the plants with copper, you might be fine moving the plants to the main tank, but not any substrate.
 

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Alum dip.
Stronger dose = shorter time.
Milder dose = longer time.

Set up the quarantine tank and add Alum to it.

Copper will also kill snails, but seems to be somewhat residual. I have no idea if it would cling to the leaves, but it seems to stick around in the substrate. If you treated the plants with copper, you might be fine moving the plants to the main tank, but not any substrate.
Same here, 1 TBS per gallon for 48-72 hours seems to be 99.99% effective at that dose rate for both snails AND eggs, also appears to be effective against other nasties like dragonfly larva/mosquito larva. Only plant I've had issues with this treatment with was frogbit, though I would attribute that more to shipping stress. It even works with duckweed (you'd be shocked how many snails are in wild collected duckweed)
 

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What is the best way to prevent snails when introducing new plants? I am thinking about setting up a farm tank where I can keep plants for a while and treat with something to kill the invaders.

Hi Trickster,

Unfortunately most dip suggestions do more harm than good. They may (or may not) kill living snails but I have found none that are 100% effective against snail eggs. Also, there are many cases where dipping the plants results in dead, disintegrating, or damaged plants that may or may not recover.

Yes, quarantining the plants for at least 4 weeks is the best way (most sure way) to avoid introducing snails to your display tank. While plants are in quarantine watch for adult snail hitchhikers or baby snails that have hatched. If found dose Seachem Cupramine at about 8 drops per gallon; that will kill the adult and baby snails. If new baby snails appear then dose again. After four (4) weeks at normal temperatures all snail eggs should have hatched and the plants should be safe to introduce to your display tank. It is doubtful if this treatment will effect shrimp or ornamental snails if plants are rinsed very thoroughly before adding the plants to the tank, but caution is advised.

All of my tanks are snail-free and have been for 5+ years.
 

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Alum dip.
Stronger dose = shorter time.
Milder dose = longer time.

Set up the quarantine tank and add Alum to it.

Copper will also kill snails, but seems to be somewhat residual. I have no idea if it would cling to the leaves, but it seems to stick around in the substrate. If you treated the plants with copper, you might be fine moving the plants to the main tank, but not any substrate.
Same here, 1 TBS per gallon for 48-72 hours seems to be 99.99% effective at that dose rate for both snails AND eggs, also appears to be effective against other nasties like dragonfly larva/mosquito larva. Only plant I've had issues with this treatment with was frogbit, though I would attribute that more to shipping stress. It even works with duckweed (you'd be shocked how many snails are in wild collected duckweed). I treat the plants in a small tank with a light, drain and rinse after 2 days, and finish out the rest of the week in qt so there is less chance of disease/ich/parasite transfer.

Its so simple I do a soak on ALL my new plant/driftwood additions, just to be safe.
 

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Probably not a viable option but I keep a Botia Angelicus (sp) loach?
any new plants I get go in a tank with it and half a day or so no snails.
Though I have snails in 2 out of 4 tanks intentionally don't like adding new lol.
 
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