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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for the horrible pics, but i think they're good enough to get the point across.. anyone have/seen one of these before?




its a lil hard to make out but basically she has a mostly black head, with red on the sides and her tail markings are all red. When I first got her she looked all black. I've noticed her molt and she's almost entirely red right after the molt, but within a day the black will settle back in again and she mostly looks like a cbs again..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hmm.. well i bought her as a cbs.. its just over the last couple months ive noticed she's red sometimes and has these red markings.. is there a red-spot disease? lol
I'll definitely look into it further, great link! She is the only one that has these colorings though, all my crs look great and nice and red, no black.
 

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hmm.. well i bought her as a cbs.. its just over the last couple months ive noticed she's red sometimes and has these red markings.. is there a red-spot disease? lol
I'll definitely look into it further, great link! She is the only one that has these colorings though, all my crs look great and nice and red, no black.
Could just be a weird one. My solid brown one was a CBS when I got him, and slowly went solid brown everywhere. One of my other CBS has solid white, dark solid black and one 1 red stripe on the tail. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah yeah, the tail deformity(underside) showed up after her last molt, not really sure what happened there and that's definitely a possibility for the inbred mutation from before I got her... My current CRS/CBS come from 4 separate sources so I'm hoping there won't be any inbreds in the future..

Any other thoughts/info on this would be greatly appreciated as well, thanks everyone ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm ok.. Whats the best way to treat this? The only things I can find are:
1) change the entire substrate
2) paraguard/furanol(sp?) that I'm not sure I can order here in the states..

Would ethyromycin work? Or maracyn?
I could change the substrate to AS, but I don't have a way to cycle it ahead of time currently without buying more tanks to put them in...
 

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Paraguard is made my Seachem and should be able to get any LFS. Big Al's sells it on their site, so you have to be able to get it in the states.

As for the maracyn and maracyn 2, and other antibiotics, they all work on different bacterias, one being gram-positive, the other being gram-negative, and without know what type causes black spot disease, you may be treating for positive and its negative, or vice-versa.

I know my cherries had no problem with a full dose of Paraguard, so I would assume the crystal could too. The tricky part is, to either issolate the shrimp and treat, or treat the whole tank, but with your dividers you're treating all 3 areas which one, means 3x the dose, and also 3x the potential for a reaction to it. I did build my cherries up to the full dose over a few days though first too, to judge reaction and give them a chance to get used to it and did lots of WC in the meantime. I was lucky though and had a 5.5gal already cycled with my at the time 2 tigers in it, so they got moved, then i got more tigers and bunked them with the yellows. Even a 2.5gal with a sponge filter and no substrate should only run you 15-20$ to get setup and work as a QT tank if you decide to treat it. Looking more at the link I posted, it does look like a lot like yours in the 3rd pic. that person said they cured it naturally though, so I'm not sure what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I would dose enough for a 15gal if I dosed the tank.. I do have a 2gal quarantine tank around with no one in it that I can use to transfer her into to treat.

The rest of my shrimp look good, although I do have a golden that has developed deep red markings on the sides of the tail area that didn't used to be there.. Not sure of that's natural or not..

I'll order the paraguard now, thanks for letting me know bigals has it ;)
 

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Thought I would post this here as I think its good advice.

Any time your shrimp have any kind of infection, because of the shrimp having an exoskeleton, its usually an infection, whether viral, bacteria, parasite or fungus, that affect the exoskeleton of the shrimp. If you are treating any shrimp for any of these in a main tank, remove the molts. Its very easy another shrimp to get infected off the molt of an infected shrimp, more-so than being in the water with it. I know you should leave the molts in, they get calcium from it, but removing for a few weeks could help stop the spread of it to the rest of your colony. My parasite infection infects the top of the head on the shrimp, on the exoskeleton, so if I didn't remove the molt, the next shrimp that grabbed the molt to eat, the parasite could have easily spread to it, moreso than just being in the same tank with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well a week later and she passed away Yesterday evening. Once I had her up close I could see the growths on her and the lesions. I'm sure it was blackspot disease or something like it. I dosed paraguard for a week and no change. Everyone else is literally in perfect health though and I had her separated from them. At least now, I know what to do next time, thanks guys ;)
 

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From the link you provided, I guess a "deep" clean is key when you see something like this. I don't know what she means by beneficial bacteria dosing though. They actually sell "bacteria" in our LF stores?
 
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