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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy All,

After a long hiatus from planted tanks (started out with planted tanks, went reef tanks, now it's back to planted tanks), I am about to start a new project.

I am waiting on delivery of an ADA 90H tank and have been brainstorming the support system for the tank.

I like as little as possible equipment-wise in my tanks. So, I am wondering if I can get away with having one closed loop system with a powerful enough filter to have everything plumbed inline (i.e., filter, reactor, UV sterilizer, and possible inline heater) and still have adequate flow.

Any suggestions canister filter, size-wise, to start with? I really prefer not have to plumb-in bypass systems in order to preserve flow rates with whatever canister system you guys help me come up with.

Some additional questions, what reactor impedes flow the least, the Rex reactor or the Cerges' reactor? When it comes to UV sterilizers which one(s) would be least restrictive in terms of flow from a design standpoint?

Thanks Much!!

G
 

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Are we thinking the same type of closed loop?

A closed loop is where you drill holes in the tank 2.3.4..5. etc and connect them to a external pump that can push some serious water like an iwaki or dart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are we thinking the same type of closed loop?

A closed loop is where you drill holes in the tank 2.3.4..5. etc and connect them to a external pump that can push some serious water like an iwaki or dart.
Sorry, I may be mincing terms. Bottom line is this:

Enough system flow with a canister filter that has an inline reactor + heater + UV sterilizer.

Please read my post again and tell me what you think.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I beg to differ, that's the aquarist, not the filter.
When I was a reefer, I spared no expense because of the inherit "murphy syndrome" associated with sump systems.

Without a doubt there are more pitfall disasters associated with sumps, reef ready tanks, etc., as compared to a "closed loop" canister water movement/filtration system.
 

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I just finished a similar project for my 75 gal. I have a Fluval 405 and an Eheim 1262 for flow. Pushing it through a Reactor, flow meter, in-line heater, & sterilizer. Also plumbed pH meter inline.

Electrical wiring Fluid Gas Electrical supply Drink


Flow Rate is currently about 220gph. It was a bit higher w/o the bio balls in the reactor (added them back in because flow was shooting the CO2 out too quickly).

What flow rate are you shooting for?

Good Luck!
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Matt, this is exactly the kind of input that I am looking for. As far as flow goes whatever (subjectively), counts as adequate? Interestingly, I see you are using the eheim as an augmentative pump. And I see you have a Hydor heater. Does the Hydor "click" on that much? I wonder how much thermal energy is being introduced to the water column via the eheim?

Bottom line, I would like a ball park figure myself as to what would be an adequately sized canister filter to provide a) sufficient pressure/volume to the tank with b) having an inline heater, sterilizer, and reactor factored into the build of my system.

Thanks,

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Matt, I forgot to ask: What is that coming straight out of the outflow of the eheim submersible pump?
 

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The 90H is 65 gallons and I've always thought the rule of thumb is 10x for waterflow, so theoretically you want about 650 GPH after all your inline items.

Get a sump.

Or you could maybe use a Fluval FX5, with or without a booster. They claim 600 GPH but that's without media, with media and inline stuff it's going to drop. How much, I don't know, but with a booster pump or plenty of in tank circulation you might make it work.

Honestly, a properly sized sump will never overflow and it's probably the best, cheapest solution to your dilemma. You'll have basically nothing in tank, you can always add inline equipment and it simplifies water changes and dosing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 90H is 65 gallons and I've always thought the rule of thumb is 10x for waterflow, so theoretically you want about 650 GPH after all your inline items.

Get a sump.

Or you could maybe use a Fluval FX5, with or without a booster. They claim 600 GPH but that's without media, with media and inline stuff it's going to drop. How much, I don't know, but with a booster pump or plenty of in tank circulation you might make it work.

Honestly, a properly sized sump will never overflow and it's probably the best, cheapest solution to your dilemma. You'll have basically nothing in tank, you can always add inline equipment and it simplifies water changes and dosing.
I appreciate your input, but don't want a sump. Period...

Two questions: Better flow 1) rex reactor or 2) cerges reactor.

Second question: Best UV sterilizer in terms of design that inhibits flow the least.
 

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That's my Flow Meter coming out of the Eheim. The heater is coming on some, but being in the cabinet, I haven't really paid that much attention. Haven't seen the water temp go above what I have the heater set for though.

I think my flow is reduced more by the number of 90-degree turns I had to use to fit everything in than any particular piece of equipment.

My target flow rate was primarily limited by my sterilizer - not mechanically, but functionally. The water can only be moving through there so fast and still get sterilized.

I may be wrong, but I thought 3-4x the tank volume per hour was a good flow rate for planted tanks.
 

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Blink, what is your setup? If I was filtering at 750gph, I'd have to have a completely different system for CO2 diffusion and UV Sterilization. At that flow my CO2 would be blowing straight into the tank. And is there an aquarium sterilizer that works at 750 gph?

10x sounds great for filtering, so I'm open to hearing a better system than what I've got!
 

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The tank is 168G raw volume(actual main tank volume is around 150G), The pump is 750gph rate, but after 4.5ft lift and tubing restriction, the actual flow volume is around 300gph, don't see anything wrong in two years operation.
How many X of filter flow rate depends on your specific setup. In my tank, the main tank area is a big biological filter itself because a lot of plants surface area, and the sump is filled with large amount of filter media.



 

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When I was a reefer, I spared no expense because of the inherit "murphy syndrome" associated with sump systems.

Without a doubt there are more pitfall disasters associated with sumps, reef ready tanks, etc., as compared to a "closed loop" canister water movement/filtration system.
I have 2 clients with serious physical disabilities, they have sumps and cannot do much to the tank for months at a time. You simply engineer over flows for the tank and sump, and automated refills.

No matter what happens short of the tank itself breaking, this way there are no wet floors, no dry sumps.

I service those systems once every 4-8 months.
He just feeds the fish.

I place large containers for ferts, autodosed etc.



An obviously illogical product:
Clang, why on earth would you buy a wiper for a UV?
For bioflim build up? why precisely does UV light "do"? :redface:
I've removed UV's that are 3-4 years old, never found any bioflim at all.

Here's a video of my 180 which has not had any issues for the last 8 years with the filtration and I switched to a sump about a little over 1 year s ago:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3VNwfNtNA0

I'm not clear on why folks are scared and anti sump. They are much easier and easier to maintain over time, they produce 1-2ppm higher in O2 levels than closed loops, which is far better for fish.
 

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Sorry, I may be mincing terms. Bottom line is this:

Enough system flow with a canister filter that has an inline reactor + heater + UV sterilizer.

Please read my post again and tell me what you think.

:)
Been there done this test on several aquariums over about the last 8 years, they are all sump and work wonderfully now.

Did it in the past as well. Sumps are the best filters for planted tanks if they are 40 Gal or so or more.
 

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.... An obviously illogical product:
Clang, why on earth would you buy a wiper for a UV?
For bioflim build up? why precisely does UV light "do"? :redface:
I've removed UV's that are 3-4 years old, never found any bioflim at all. ....

I have 2 clients with serious physical disabilities, ... I service those systems once every 4-8 months.
He just feeds the fish.

I place large containers for ferts, autodosed etc.
Been around for years, they have .... Wiper wipes the outside of the quartz sleeve .... Keeps quartz sleeve clean so UV works basically unimpeded. No mineral buildup, no trash buildup, etc

Great idea; get handicapped, rich clients to test drive products. Then, I can decide if I think that it is worth spending my hard-earned cash for these products. Excellent idea!
 
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