Tired of killing shrimp

Your kh, gh, and tds are high. Also, do you really need co2?

385TDS and thats lowered for you? wow



Cherry Shrimp
PH: 6.4 – 7.6
KH: 0 – 10
GH: 4 – 14
TDS: 80 – 200 (could probably do 250 if your other parameters are stable)
Water temp: 18 – 23

All your readings are 2x mine except my PH is around 7.0. Most of my shrimps died in that damn recycled coal slag, seems like you're using the same stuff. Switching back to EcoComplete now.

See if you can find someone local to grab shrimp that's acclimated to your tap. Surprised you're water has such high levels.

The tap here hovers around 300 TDS.

Yeah that's some really hard water you got there. What size tank are you keeping them in?

If it's a small tank maybe you can just get a 5g refillable jug and use some of store bought distilled water to do a 50/50 mix and help lower the numbers.

Maybe you should consider RO water filter or get RO water from local fish store/Walmart. 300 TDS is just too high to begin with.

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My RCS don't do well in that low a ph. The water here is liquid rock and my shrimp are breeding like rabbits

Let us all try and add to the knowledge base presented by you.
First, I can say that in my opinion your "cracked shell death" if denoted by your pic is simply the space between plates of exoskeleton around the time of molting. I see this ALL the time with many types of shrimp.
Second, the data given by you describing your water conditions clues me in on something else. The fact that the shrimp are dying during the time when the shrimp are obviously about to molt AND your water is extremely hard tells me that you have a molting issue and not a disease or whatever. I suspect that the shrimp cannot successfully molt due to elevated mineral content.
I also agree that the pH is too low for Neo's.

Yea your levels seem to be a little high. They are far from what mine are, mine breed fine in my tap. I would look into an RO system and acclimate your tank to that level. Don't just change all the water at once they will die if you mess with the parameters too much.

Too much gh and the shell become so thick they can't get it off.

Weird, My tap is liquid rock as well. TDS-400, KH - 14, GH - 16, PH - 8.2-8.4 and our colony is thriving like cockroaches. About the only thing I see is your Ph. How are your swings at night? I assume its on a solenoid and shuts off at night? With your TDS/GH/KH I imagine it is buffering back at night and might be causing a crazy swing in Ph. Have you tested maybe in the morning before CO2 starts again, it might confirm/discount what I think might be going on. Our neos never enjoy low ph water, but your numbers should still keep them alive and doing alright.

Keep in mind much has to do with what params your breeder kept them at. If they are used to a lower gh, the higher gh may well be detrimental.

mnemenoi said:

About the only thing I see is your Ph. How are your swings at night? I assume its on a solenoid and shuts off at night? With your TDS/GH/KH I imagine it is buffering back at night and might be causing a crazy swing in Ph. Have you tested maybe in the morning before CO2 starts again, it might confirm/discount what I think might be going on. Our neos never enjoy low ph water, but your numbers should still keep them alive and doing alright.

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Little confused here. I thought high KH controls acid and thus PH swings. Therefore, my PH shouldn't be moving very much at all since I have a high KH. E.g. CO2 injection should have little impact on my PH. I'll test while it's off as well to see. I know that my drop checker doesn't move day or night.

Well, just got some healthy molts and TDS is still in the upper 300s as I await delivery of my 5 gallon jug for RO water. Maybe some of these guys are more adaptable than others?

prighello said:

Little confused here. I thought high KH controls acid and thus PH swings. Therefore, my PH shouldn't be moving very much at all since I have a high KH. E.g. CO2 injection should have little impact on my PH. I'll test while it's off as well to see. I know that my drop checker doesn't move day or night.

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Co2 changes your ph all the time. That's why some use ph controllers with co2 to stop the swings. Drop checker is just for a quick check and is by no means accurate. Many guides here on how to dial in your com and take accurate readings

-Chris

people here in Utah keep them in hard water and breed them in there, so i don't think GH/Kh is the problem, it sound more like co2 or csm+b if you are dosing too much of either one.

That substrate is layered in debris, do you ever vacuum?

agro said:

That substrate is layered in debris, do you ever vacuum?

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Yes, once a week. That spot by the heater is harder to get to and thus looks worse than the rest of the tank.

What substrate are you using?

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