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used this method today and afterwards noticed very strong smell coming from tank. kind of reminded me of diy co2 solution. not pleasant.

hair algae is dying off and turning white. smaller patches of BBA are turning red. no dead inhabitants. still too early to see full results.

i used 6 tbsp in about ~20g of water. 30 mL of Excel after.
 

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used this method today and afterwards noticed very strong smell coming from tank. kind of reminded me of diy co2 solution. not pleasant.

hair algae is dying off and turning white. smaller patches of BBA are turning red. no dead inhabitants. still too early to see full results.

i used 6 tbsp in about ~20g of water. 30 mL of Excel after.
I hope everything turns out ok....that's too much Excel I believe (5mL/10gal target charge should've been 10mL in your 20gal tank...assuming you have 20gal of water); adding 3x the Excel may be the odor you're smelling....does it smell just like the bottle of Excel ? I wouldn't know as I use straight glutaraldehyde (has that sweetish pungent aldehyde odor)
 

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I followed your directions from the first post and am pleased to say that I seem to finally have won the war on clado. When I upgraded my lights from t5no to led I got a huuuuge clado outbreak that just hasn't been going away. I would seriously pull pounds of clado out of that tank every week or 2. Needless to say my other plants suffered, and my tank looked like crap. Now my tank looks much better, and all traces of the offending clado are gone. Careful maintenance will hopefully keep it away haha.

I did combine this treatment with a very, very large water change and it resulted in a mini cycle for my tank. Nobody died, but I did have white cloudy water for a few weeks until everything balanced out. Now my water is crystal clear and I can enjoy looking at my tank again. Wahoo!
 

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DarkCobra-

I tried your method on my 25 gallon tank; it had what was probably the same type of staghorn algae ("Staghorn on Steriods" :))that you described in post #1. This time I dosed 3.5 tablespoons per 10 gallon since the algae was pretty bad; after about 2 hours ALL the staghorn turned red and so far no issues with fish and shrimp (Though the shrimps are a shaken up a bit from the massive flow). Pictures are attached. I wasn't able to get any pre-treatment pictures because I forgot, sorry, but it's pretty much the same thing in the pictures, just the color is gray to black. Thank you for sharing this technique! I will update it in a few days to show you the overall result.

Got a bit artsy on one :)
 

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Just a FYI for folks that fear killing their fish, which should be 100% of you, do a large water change before and after treatment(say 8 hours after). The by products of the killing algae, bacteria, organic matter release into the water can be removed easily with a simple water change.

It is always better to use "many small little hammers", than one large one when dealing with pest if you have things in the tank which you do not want to harm.

Algae are symptomatic, they tell me folks or myself are not focusing on the plant growth correctly. So that's the no# 1 area to focus on. Not just add algae killers and ignore that. But that said, when you do get algae, products like these can and do help to get rid of the mess you made. But they should never be an ongoing part of anyone's routine.

I do not have good horticulture skills from my algae killing ability.
No one does.

when you do kill algae or use chemical treatments, do the water changes, this helps reduce the O2 demand from all the organic materials and increases the O2, algae do not like water changes as a rule also.

I noted that 1/2 doses has similar effects on green algae and also shrimp(still killed them) with Algaefix/busan 77.
 

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A small update with the aquarium's current state:

I think I overdosed the hydrogen peroxide. Or it could be that I was aiming a constant 200 gph pump at the plants for 15 minutes. Anyways, the HM got burned, though the crown is still producing fresh new green leaves. This is my first time with a chemical treatment, so it's just probably my fault that something went wrong. Everything else is fine though, fish are happy, shrimps are happy, and the annoying tiny snails are all happy :D.

As a added note, all the algae died and I did perform a large water change later (in my case the next day) as Mr. Barr recommended. If I ever have to do this again, I would probably use a lower dose of H2O2, just to leave some room for error.
 

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Due to more than a few reasons not the least of which is doing something wrong to produce this stuff i am going to try this method tomorrow on my 40g.tank.i do have a few questions.Because I let this get so out of hand if this treatment does not kill all or most algae how soon would it be safe to try again?how long does the excel stay in the water before being used up?I am trying hard to understand the dosing of ferts as I believe that is the one of three things that may be out of sync.I have co2 and after replacing the needle valve I should be able to set that up so it is constant during the light period.i have cut my lights to 7 hours a day.2x39watt ho5 plant bulbs and 6500 led strip.i am dosing with flourish after wc and with a micro-macro dry mix three times a week at half recommended dose.If anyone can look this over and give me some ideas i plan on beating the algae monster the right way.Mr.Barr your tanks look so clear I would not be afraid to get a glass and drink from them LOL so help this guy out and please not to much with the kno,nko etc..Thanks
 

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Hello

I hope to get some help on the h2o2 dosing.

Here is a quick summary...
I have many swords & ferns attached to driftwood.

These are full of gha $ bba.

So i filled up a 30g, added a small powerhead & heater.

Removed the woods&plants from the main tank, did a bleach dip to everything, rinsed, now everything is
In the 30g ( no life & bare-bottom )

Next! I dumped an entire bottle of hydrogen peroxide i got at the drugstore.

48h later, a few spot of gha is turning white from the bleach, bubbles on others, bba unfazed.

Could mixing both treatments cancel each others? Or am i just impatient and the algae will die from what i thought "extreme measure"?
 

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Hey everyone, definitely a good read up.

My 40br has been experiencing some bad algae recently. I am planning on doing the H2o2 dosage. so for 4tbsp per 10g x 4, Im dosing 16tbsp all around the tank? I'm going to close out eheim valves to make sure none of the h2o2 get in there, leaving one powerhead on to circulate water. After 30 min, I will do a 50% water change and turn the filter back on, correct? Luckily, the tank is not stocked with anything but S. Repens, Rotala, and Fissidens.

Just double checking the whole procedure. It sounds like a great idea in theory, but after having all my HC melt on me... I don't need another catastrophe on my hands.

THANKS!
 

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Jonnywhoop,

I took a glance at your tank journal and if your algae is all coming from your current round of HC melt, you might want to hold on and see if it calms down by itself first. The ammonia from the melt may have triggered your algae but if you remove it, it should fade in time. I don't know if you've read through the whole thread but this treatment is known to melt some lower order plants too. Not sure if yours are included but just wanted you to proceed with caution. But if you DO decide on this, you might want to consider removing the biomedia in the eheim and running it as well because if you follow the guide, it suggests getting as much flow as possible during the "treatment" time.
 

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Ipkiss

Thanks for the quick response! I removed all of the HC by advice from a lot of people. Another method too was to get my sae and Amanos up in there to start chomping away. Since the tank is empty now, however, I considered the h2o2 method. I can definitely take out the sponges and what not on my eheim. Better yet I can use my friends power head instead. I'm just getting some dark green algae on some of the plants including the repens. Algae on the rocks and woods too. I honestly think the sae will do it, but if nuking the tank completely can do it easily, it's definitely worth considering!
 

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I just dosed h202 in my tank today, following the original recommendation (4 tbsp/10 gallon). After about 15 minutes, I did a 50% water change. My fish look a little stressed. Does anyone know what % h2o2 can be in the water before it starts harming fish? I think I am at about 1.5% right now.
 

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I just dosed h202 in my tank today, following the original recommendation (4 tbsp/10 gallon). After about 15 minutes, I did a 50% water change. My fish look a little stressed. Does anyone know what % h2o2 can be in the water before it starts harming fish? I think I am at about 1.5% right now.
I suggest you do another 25-50% water change.
 

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I just dosed h202 in my tank today, following the original recommendation (4 tbsp/10 gallon). After about 15 minutes, I did a 50% water change. My fish look a little stressed. Does anyone know what % h2o2 can be in the water before it starts harming fish? I think I am at about 1.5% right now.
Yeah, I've typically performed a ~75% water change after treatment. I've found even 3 tbls/10 gal to kill some species. Here's what I've found and put together for dosing my 135gal. I wouldn't go above 2.25tbs/10gal if I ever did it again with fish in the tank. (I hope this table pastes in ok).

Edited out the dosing table since it didn't paste well.
 

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Adding another data point, did this a couple weeks ago on a densely planted 135. Used the original full strength, didn't really see any bubbling. The hair algae was completely removed as was the staghorn. The BBA was more or less untouched. No fish deaths to note, although one or two going missing wouldn't be noticeable. Found happy shrimp of all ages a week later still in the tank, so I don't think it nuked them. Worth noting is that there was a fairly large amount of gunk scattered in dead spots towards the back of the tank.
 

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Worked well for me

I did the H2O2 treatment followed by excel dosing this weekend. I had a mix of BBA, green hair algae and some diatoms (relatively new tank). I used the revised 2Tb of H2O2 per 10gal of tank water. My pond snails just laughed and went on cruising around. I have a school of ember tetras all seem to be doing fine 3 days later, so I think it went well. Algae clearing up nicely (though I also did some work to pull some of it out manually). I did have a ton of flow in the tank when I added the H2O2, so I think this step is crucial to success.
I have several stem plants (s. belem, blyxa japonica, pogostemon stellatus, ludwigia cuba) that did fine. My downoi (pogostemon helferi) looks good, so does my peacock moss, cyperus helferi, and staurogyne repens.
Anyhow, good luck to everyone else fighting the good algae fight.
 

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OK.. so after ready alot of thread..

4 Tb per 10 gallons..

lots of water flow..

remove biofilter.

marimo balls are affected..

***********
i have 20g tank.. it is only tank with this algae.. idk why since all other lights stay on just as long.. anyways..

i just added some guppies.. i will remove them during treatment..

BUT one of my marimo is where the HA is growing on.. :( (pss. may do the DARK OUT METHOD in post 1, so BLACK OUT IT IS)

darkcobra mention hyro/perx would burn it.. does it recover?

i would like to kill it.. i have SAE in there.. they don't seem to be excited by HA..

ps.. great thread.. thanks!
 

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I've been battling BBA in my 55 gallon display tank for a while now. It's a medium light low-tech tank with a very heavy fish load, soon to be replaced with a 6 ft 150 gallon because the fish are breeding maniacs (guppies/mollies/platties/corys and otos). Surprisingly even the otos are breeding readily in this my tank.

I just did the full one-two punch and ALL of the BBA is dying rapidly, thanks for the original post. I had only 1 casualty through the whole ordeal (1 oto didn't make it) but all the BBA is various shades of read and falling off/getting eaten by the mollies and otos. This method was a god-send.

The next step for me will be going high-tech with CO2 injection and some dosing regimen, not sure which yet. This will likely come after the tank is moved into the new 150 gallon setup.
 

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ihaveassive diatoms growing on the glass/rocks and drift wood. I've been scrubing what icould. would this be effective against diatoms? the stock I currently have are just 4 neons and 3 horn snails to help with the diatoms. they seem to be doing a job by eating the algae off this rock
 
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