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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked up a 100 gallon craigslist special last night for my next tank. Based on what I've been able to find it appears to be a DAS tank (based on the motor I pulled out of the overflow box).

This tank was set up as a saltwater tank and I'm going to be using it as a low-tech planted tank.

So what I need some help with:

1. Does anyone know specifically what tank this is? I know it's a 100 gallon corner tank, it has an overflow box in the back left corner but the tank is not drilled at all, it's a self contained "hang on" type unit which had a DAS skimmer in the box.

2. Does that box look "factory" or is it probably something the prior owner tossed in? How would I go about taking it out? I'm thinking of using a heat gun (lightly of course) and putty knife as I'm sure the plastic box is probably only siliconed to the glass. Thoughts?

Pictures (sorry for the poor quality, I'll try to get some better ones tonight if needed, also, the hood is off of it for the pictures):







 

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This looks like what I have, it's a 95g Miracle

I have no idea how a hang-on overflow works. I had one built in the back of my tank and pierced, and now that I'm moving to freshwater that's what will allow me to easily setup automated water changes.

Anyway I would keep the hang-on overflow so surface water gets cleaned. Put the intake of your filter in the overflow, and outtake in the main tank. And everything you want to hide goes in the overflow like the heater, drop checker, ...


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had considered using it, however the tank is not drilled in any way, the hang on overflow was designed to be self contained with a mini refugium, protein skimmer and filters. Since I'm going to use my Aquatop CF-500UV Canister Filter with UV9W Sterilizer which is rated at 525 GPH. Because of this, the overflow (as this one is setup) is just a waste of tank space since it's not drilled or ported in any way. if it was in the back middle like yours is I would keep it and just drill to use it but this is just a box they glued to the side of the tank lol.
 

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I had considered using it, however the tank is not drilled in any way, the hang on overflow was designed to be self contained with a mini refugium, protein skimmer and filters. Since I'm going to use my Aquatop CF-500UV Canister Filter with UV9W Sterilizer which is rated at 525 GPH. Because of this, the overflow (as this one is setup) is just a waste of tank space since it's not drilled or ported in any way. if it was in the back middle like yours is I would keep it and just drill to use it but this is just a box they glued to the side of the tank lol.
You can still use it. Put the intake hose of the canister filter in the overflow instead of the tank itself. You don't need a drilled tank for this to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can still use it. Put the intake hose of the canister filter in the overflow instead of the tank itself. You don't need a drilled tank for this to work.
Ahh, good call, thanks for the ideas guys.

I just wonder if I should give up the real estate of that big box to just house the intake, since I was going to use inline heaters, I can't think of anything else I'd use that box for.

I wonder if just making my own overflow out of plexi for the back middle would be a better option... :confused:
 

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One of the main advantage of an overflow is to clean the surface water. Surface water can get oily or something, and a filter intake in the body of water won't get it. But with your filter intake inside the overflow, the surface water from the main tank flows in the overflow and stays clean.

Making your own overflow shouldn't be too hard.

And if you get it pierced and have access to plug stuff into your plumbing, you can have automated water changes like I'm doing!
When the level drops in the overflow, a float switch activates a solenoid and tap water flows into the main tank. This is basically an auto-topoff system to replace water that evaporates.
And the pierced overflow is connected to a drain pipe, and is normally closed with a solenoid valve. A timer opens this solenoid for some time every day, so water from the overflow starts draining, which activates the auto-topoff. The timer keeps the drain open long enough for about 10% of the water to get changed.
 

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Pixel Prestidigitator
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Ahh, good call, thanks for the ideas guys.

I just wonder if I should give up the real estate of that big box to just house the intake, since I was going to use inline heaters, I can't think of anything else I'd use that box for.

I wonder if just making my own overflow out of plexi for the back middle would be a better option... :confused:
Why? You've got a box already. Only thing I would do is drill a few evenly spaced holes a little lower on the box there. You'd still pick up most of the water from the surface but get a little from the mid point. Plus if you were negligent or away for a period of time and water level dropped below those top holes your filter wouldn't run dry.

You may not have any ideas for it right now but how about in the future? Don't kill the options you have right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Agreed that an overflow is needed, that wasn't what I was debating, the problem I have with this one is that's it's a huge unsightly box that's designed to be a self contained overflow, filter media, protein skimmer box that's taking up valuable real estate down 1/2 of my left wall.

I can go one of three routes, as I see it, and they are:

1. Just keep the overflow box as it is, incorporate the pickup into the overflow box and be done.

2. Create a much smaller back wall overflow with incorporated overflow and lower pickup points.

3. No overflow at all and incorporate this: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12703&prodid=24871&catid=3

The tank will be a low-tech, no CO2 injection tank, and I have no plans of ever changing that so the large overflow that's there doesn't make any sense for future plans. To me it just seems like it will be grossly underused and a waste of real estate.

While it would be nice to incorporate an auto-topoff to the setup in the future, that's not feasible as the tank will be located in the main entry way of my house right in the stairwell "pocket". behind it is an under stairs closet to which I could, at a later date, incorporate a 55 gallon trash can topoff system like I did with my salt water tanks but I would wait until I had a sump / refugium setup and that's where I'd run the autotopoff sensor (worked great for years in my salt setups and kept the tank clear of any unnecessary "stuff" hanging in it).
 
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