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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got any good links or tips on sump design?

I am going to have two 20l feed into a 29 sump, stacked vertically. All of the mechanicals and filtration will be in the 29. Each will be on its own return pump. Co2 will be injected in sump and distributed to the tanks VIA return. Heating, same idea. If there is any floor space left over I will put in some potted plants, and excess shrimps etc. I want both tanks to feed into the same filter pad area.

I will be using the plumbing design found here:
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

But no overflow. The primary downpipe will run to just above the substrate, same as the intake on a canister.
 

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I agree with the comment above. I would recommend a herbie style stand pipe. Really though there are a great many good ways to do a stand pipe. I did see a glass overflow the other day though, if you wanted a clean look. It will only cost you $350.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The primary stand pipe will be drilled just below the water line. If the power goes out, the siphon breaks. I will locate the drill holes so that if the power goes off and both tanks drain until the siphon breaks, the water will flow harmlessly into the sump. The sump will have an operating depth full enough to allow all mechanicals to properly function, and some margin for evaporation, but enough empty space to allow the two display tanks to drain during service/outage.

I am interested in how much space to devote to filtration, how to separate the sections, and how to route the water properly.
 

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I do not see why you do not want an overflow. It's essentially what you are saying you want but without the overflow box? What equipment do you want in the sump? are you planting it and keeping it on an opposing lighting cycle? What live stock are you planing for the tandem 29's?
 

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overflow box = essential for proper sump failover. There is a reason the standard has been set and that standard involves an overflow box. I have been toying with this myself and I attempted a DIY without an overflow box sometime ago. The short version is sump overflow and roughly 30 gallons of water on my living room floor.

It may not flow with what you want to accomplish but trust everyone an overflow box is needed.

Abe
 

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overflow box = essential for proper sump failover. There is a reason the standard has been set and that standard involves an overflow box. I have been toying with this myself and I attempted a DIY without an overflow box sometime ago. The short version is sump overflow and roughly 30 gallons of water on my living room floor.

It may not flow with what you want to accomplish but trust everyone an overflow box is needed.

Abe
I agree
 

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Back flow preventers are unreliable and tend to stick open.

I've been using a sump on our reef for 3 years. If you dont use an overflow box with a standpipe and just have a pipe in the water like a canister filter intake, its going to be a nightmare to start the siphon, and when the power goes out when your not around it will not restart the sipon when it comes back on.

If the tanks are not running yet i would have them drilled and make a glass overflow. Thats how i did our 20 long frag tank and it works great, its quite and u hardly noticed it until the coraline algae started growing on it. If drilling isnt an option CPR makes a great hob overflow.

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There is a overflow type called a "MAME" overflow. Basically a siphon / return combo, the siphon is reprimed with the return in the case of a power loss. The manufactured ones are quiet expensive, but there has been some DIY attempts.

For two tanks I think the best bet would be two return pumps, since matching flows with valving and siphons might not work well.

Goto glass-holes.com. Easy overflow boxes w/ hole saws :)
 

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Here's how we did our frag tank overflow


and the pipe going down to the sump. Its simple, quiet, and only cost $10 to have a friend drill it and he also made the overflow box with glass scraps, and it keeps up with a magdrive 5 return pump with 4 feet head.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just seems to me like there would be better vertical water movement with a stand pipe. Almost none of the heavy organics seem to end up on the surface to be skimmed off, except for leaves, but they do tend to find their way into the canister.

For your flooding experience, did you have the standpipe drilled to break siphon?

I've set up almost the exact same thing on a hydroponics bed and it was self priming on the flood cycle. Once the water rose high enough above the pipe, the air is forced out and the siphon kicks on.

I guess I'll check it again. Only differerence is that the stand pipe on my hydro bed wasn't drilled because if the power went out, the water would just flow down the inlet from the pump back into the resevoir. Maybe the hole makes a difference?

As for stocking, I was thinking of using it as 2 scapable areas with 2 different communities. I am investigating pairing this set up with a larger display, all would be 30" tanks so I could rotate fish and plants as I rescape etc. The sump would house filter media, return pumps, heaters, and co2 reactor. Probably a large piece of lace rock for buffering, and some planted driftwood that I rotate through arrangements. If there is space, maybe some potted plants or spare shrimp.

To be honest, I am not 100% convinced what direction I want to go for my next step in the hobby, and have been fielding questions to try to figure out what my best options are. Part of the thought exercises has been to try to reuse as much of what I already have as possible, but at the same time steepen my learning curve. There are just too many options and all of them want my $s and time, but I'm trying not to turn into a hermit either!
 

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That is a nice drill job. I wonder what something like that would cost at a glass shop since I don't know anyone who works with glass.

I also don't want to hyjack but I got to ask about the lighting on that. I am sitting up a 20 gallon long nano reef right now. I am buying everything I need piece by piece prior to even starting it. What light you got up there?
 

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Its a 250 watt double ended metal halide with a phoenix 14000 k bulb. Its runs off a lumatech dimmable electronic ballast. Ive got the same lighting on the 75 gallon display, but just ordered 2 appollo reef led fixtures to do away with the halides.

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You don't have to have an overflow, but you do need more than just a stand pipe. You go up and over the top of the tank, run the pipe down about a foot, turn the pipe up again and then turn it down once more at the water level you want to maintain. It's the same design as a hang on overflow box but all pipe instead of the actual box. The syphon break must work flawlessly and it is easy to clog. Overflowing the tank.

Instead I would at least opt for hang on overflows.

In the sump you don't really need to have baffles for a FW tank. You can just add media to a media bag or bins. Anything the water can easily flow through is fine. Just try to limit bypass of water. You want everything going through the media.

If you have a herbie or bean animal drain you can submerge the drain pipe a bit and have very little turbulence in the sump. Then you don't require a lid or need to seal the sump.
 

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I would atleast have a baffle b4 the return pump. If the drain ever plugged up, you'd only loose a few gallons vs the entire sump volume.

Sent from my Sony Xperia Play using tapatalk
 
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