[roostertech]

I'm looking for suggestion on plumbing on kitchen island. We are going to have a big island (9'x 6') with sink on one edge (see attached diagram) and I want to put 40g ish tank on it. I'm thinking about placing cannister under the sink and run them up through 1.25" hole top of the sink. The hole will be inline with other drills for faucet/soap pump/air switch etc. Electrical for light and powerhead will also be routed through this hole.

Now my worry is water from sink usage will go back down the hole and damage the cabinet underneath. I can't put the hole far from the sink out of alignment with the other holes. And since I want it to be in the middle of the island, running it from the side is also out.

So basically I'm looking for way to make the conduit water tight but still easy enough to take apart for cleaning.

Thanks

 

[sohankpatel]

Maybe something with an o-ring? You could have it slide apart

 

[roostertech]

I'm thinking about making the hole a bit bigger than what I need and insert in a flexible tubing to act as conduit. I can seal the conduit to the counter top with silicone to prevent water going in at the base. And if water managed to enter the top of the conduit, it will travel to predictable location at the other end rather than the plywood under the countertop.

 

[The Big Buddha]

Heyco cord grips.

.

 

[roostertech]

Heyco cord grips.

.

Interesting, but that is mostly geared for one single cord?

In my case I'll have two pipes (12mm ID/16mm OD) two power cords, an air tubing going through that hole.

 

[The Big Buddha]

Just to be clear, you plan on going through the existing sink holes?

.

 

[roostertech]

Just to be clear, you plan on going through the existing sink holes?

.

I want to go through a sinkhole (ish) so if eventually we don't want to keep the tank there any more, I can cap the hole and it won't look out of place.

 

[The Big Buddha]

I would drill extra holes in the sink, run 1 for intake, 1 for outtake, a third with a PVC pipe maybe 6" above the grip kind of like a back splash and just pass airline and wires through the PVC pipe. You could even make it the height of the tank, water won't make its way up that high. Put an oring at the base of the grips and your done. Just be sure the grip threads are long enough to pass through the sink and counter. Get the grips in black, krylon the PVC black and it will look nice. Or use black ABS.

.

 

[Hoppy]

You could make a 1.25 in. diameter OD black plastic plug for the hole, with two 16 mm diameter holes side by side in the plug, with those holes slightly oval to allow the hoses to fit through without pinching them excessively. I suspect those plugs are already available in a hardware store, so you just have to cut the small holes in it.

 

[roostertech]

I would drill extra holes in the sink, run 1 for intake, 1 for outtake, a third with a PVC pipe maybe 6" above the grip kind of like a back splash and just pass airline and wires through the PVC pipe. You could even make it the height of the tank, water won't make its way up that high. Put an oring at the base of the grips and your done. Just be sure the grip threads are long enough to pass through the sink and counter. Get the grips in black, krylon the PVC black and it will look nice. Or use black ABS.

.

I agree that multiple holes would make this easier, but I already have too many holes lol : faucet, air gap for dishwasher, airswitch for the grinder, soap pump, drinking water faucet.

What about bulkhead? Are there any that can accommodate the depth (counter top + plywood) and isn't too thick?

 

[The Big Buddha]

Hoppy has a good suggestion.

I would just keep the holes to the sink lip, easy to plug down the line, or replace the sink and still save the counter if needed.

Myself I would go the Heyco route, you just loosen the screw and everything slides out easy. What are the dimensions on the back lip of the sink?

.

 

[roostertech]

You could make a 1.25 in. diameter OD black plastic plug for the hole, with two 16 mm diameter holes side by side in the plug, with those holes slightly oval to allow the hoses to fit through without pinching them excessively. I suspect those plugs are already available in a hardware store, so you just have to cut the small holes in it.

Could you link to what kind of plug are you thinking about?

Bump:

Hoppy has a good suggestion.

I would just keep the holes to the sink lip, easy to plug down the line, or replace the sink and still save the counter if needed.

Myself I would go the Heyco route, you just loosen the screw and everything slides out easy. What are the dimensions on the back lip of the sink?

.

The sink will be undermount, so replacement is never an option lol. It is not the sink I'm worried about but rather if water get on the plywood under the countertop (quartz), it would start to mold and damage the plywood support and the sink cabinet in turn. I had case where water was seeping into faucet hole from missing caulk and turned the plywood underneath to mush over the years.

 

[The Big Buddha]

I use the Heyco grips on my inline heater/Cerges reactors. They will keep things dry and make a great seal.
I guess it depends on if you mind all these holes in the counter.....

.

 

[Hoppy]

Could you link to what kind of plug are you thinking about?

Bump:

The sink will be undermount, so replacement is never an option lol. It is not the sink I'm worried about but rather if water get on the plywood under the countertop (quartz), it would start to mold and damage the plywood support and the sink cabinet in turn. I had case where water was seeping into faucet hole from missing caulk and turned the plywood underneath to mush over the years.

Sink Hole Covers - Sink Parts & Repair - Plumbing Parts & Repair - [censored]The Home Depot is what I was thinking about, but I'm sure there are other similar design plugs available.

 

[roostertech]

Sink Hole Covers - Sink Parts & Repair - Plumbing Parts & Repair - [censored]The Home Depot is what I was thinking about, but I'm sure there are other similar design plugs available.

I think it would be hard to secure that plug down without being able to bolt in from the other side (the pipes are in the way).

I'm thinking some sort of bulkhead-ish that I can seal to the countertop to prevent surface level water to get in would be good. There would still be splash but that should be minimal and would be guided down past the wood.

 

[The Big Buddha]

What about Heyco M3321 with a 1.5" PVC pipe extending to whatever height you wish? Like in your second drawing. You won't need silicone either.

.