[Ryan Mosby]

I have 6 male-only endlers (no fry!), two nerite snails, and neocaridina shrimp from two smaller tanks (that I will retire, I just want one tank to focus on) that I plan to move into a 20 gallon long once it's cycled. It will have aquasoil substrate, be moderately to heavily planted (once the plants grow more), have pressurized CO2, two 50 W heaters, a Finnex Fugeray light, and a canister filter. Based on what stock I already have, temperature ranges between 75° and 84° F (I tend to stick with 78° F for the current stock).

I've been asking around and researching as to what I can add safely to the tank. I don't want to go 100% stocked, though, as to keep water changes lighter. Mostly the answer I get is corys, but I've also read they don't deal with aquasoil well, and I'd prefer to top the ADA Amazonia Ver. 2 with Aqua Soil Powder Type for a cap rather than sand.

I'm not looking for any fish that will eat my juvenile or adult shrimp (read that gourami, tetras, and rasboras do this), though eating shrimp fry is fine. I'm also not interested in anything that's going to breed out of control (which is why all of my endlers are male). Big poopers like otos are also out of the question because wow, they are seriously big poopers. It's impressive.

It's alright if nothing really fits, I could always do 20 male endlers instead of 6. I've never done a community tank before, I don't know if 20 gallon long is big enough for one with the stock I have.

 

[MissCris]

I have 6 male-only endlers (no fry!), two nerite snails, and neocaridina shrimp from two smaller tanks (that I will retire, I just want one tank to focus on) that I plan to move into a 20 gallon long once it's cycled. It will have aquasoil substrate, be moderately to heavily planted (once the plants grow more), have pressurized CO2, two 50 W heaters, a Finnex Fugeray light, and a canister filter. Based on what stock I already have, temperature ranges between 75° and 84° F (I tend to stick with 78° F for the current stock).

I've been asking around and researching as to what I can add safely to the tank. I don't want to go 100% stocked, though, as to keep water changes lighter. Mostly the answer I get is corys, but I've also read they don't deal with aquasoil well, and I'd prefer to top the ADA Amazonia Ver. 2 with Aqua Soil Powder Type for a cap rather than sand.

I'm not looking for any fish that will eat my juvenile or adult shrimp (read that gourami, tetras, and rasboras do this), though eating shrimp fry is fine. I'm also not interested in anything that's going to breed out of control (which is why all of my endlers are male). Big poopers like otos are also out of the question because wow, they are seriously big poopers. It's impressive.

It's alright if nothing really fits, I could always do 20 male endlers instead of 6. I've never done a community tank before, I don't know if 20 gallon long is big enough for one with the stock I have.

I keep tetras in hard water just fine, and small ones like embers and neons have never bothered my shrimp. I could see bigger species being a problem, but the little guys don't seem to be an issue.

I also keep a couple varieties of rasboras in my tanks, and the harlequins wouldn't hurt shrimp either.

 

[Ryan Mosby]

Would one of these work as the additional schooling group (of 9 fish) for the tank? With hard water and PH as 7.4? Ordered from most favorite to least favorite.

Cardinal tetra (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers, might eat juvenile dwarf shrimp)
Neon tetra (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Green neon tetra (tank bred) (PH and KH likely going to be too high)
Kubotai rasbora (PH likely going to be too high)
Ember tetras (PH likely going to be too high)
Lambchop rasbora (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Albino Emperor Tetra (might look too big compared to endlers)
Harlequin rasbora (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Kitty tetra (might eat juvenile dwarf shrimp)
Gertrude’s Spotted Blue Eye Rainbowfish (might look too big compared to endlers)
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish (might look too big compared to endlers)
Scarlet badis (KH likely going to be too high, might eat juvenile dwarf shrimp)
Ruby tetra (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Phoenix rasbora (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Chili rasbora (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Pygmy rasbora (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Strawberry rasbora (PH likely going to be too high, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Serpae tetra (might look too big compared to endlers)
Emperor Tetra (might look too big compared to endlers)
White Cloud Mountain Minnow (temperature required is too low, fish might look too big compared to endlers)
Threadfin Rainbowfish (might look too big compared to endlers)
Celestial Pearl Danio
Daisy's Blue Ricefish

 

[Plinkploop]

have you considered white cloud minnows? They do well in cooler higher ph levels and stay small.

 

[SueD]

You have more room than you may think in a 20g long, considering the size of the stock you have and are considering. If you consider any of the smaller rasboras (chili, phoenix, pygmy, etc) or the ruby tetras, you could easily have 12 of those and 12 of the male endlers and be lightly stocked, imo. Boraras urophthalmoides is another small rasbora. One other species to consider is the dwarf pencilfish (Nannostomus marginatus). And I wouldn't necessarily rule out green neon tetras. My PH runs about 7.4 and I keep the green neon tetras with pencilfish, endlers, dwarf pencilfish and kerri tetras, all in a 20g long tank.

 

[Ryan Mosby]

@Plinkploop I looked them up but they had very different parameters needed.

I really don't want to go for any fish that has to adapt to PH, KH, or a temperature out of their comfort zone. I think I've narrowed it down to a few fish that could work, like CPDs, red neon blue rainbow fish, Gertrude's spotted blue eye rainbowfish, kitty tetra, etc.

Would I get male-only so that the endlers don't bother females of another school?

 

[Plinkploop]

@Plinkploop I looked them up but they had very different parameters needed.

I really don't want to go for any fish that has to adapt to PH, KH, or a temperature out of their comfort zone. I think I've narrowed it down to a few fish that could work, like CPDs, red neon blue rainbow fish, Gertrude's spotted blue eye rainbowfish, kitty tetra, etc.

Would I get male-only so that the endlers don't bother females of another school?

Absolutely go with male only unless you want a tank full of endlers, they aren't quite as prolific as guppies- from my personal experience, everyone has different experiences, but they still will take over a tank quickly, plus endlers females are really drab "grey mouse" fish and the males are gorgeous. Gertrude's rainbow is another gorgeous option.

As for white cloud minnows- I've used them in dwarf pearlscale goldfish tanks with ph of 7.8 without problems. They're a pretty hardy little fish from my experience.

 

[Ryan Mosby]

@Plinkploop Sorry for the misunderstanding--I mean should I get all males of whatever school of fish I get, in addition to the male-only endlers I have? Though looking up the following fish, it seems most don't breed as prolifically as endlers do, so maybe I'd be okay.

Still hard to make a decision, I don't want to end up making a wrong one. I keep researching more into every fish.

Celestial Pearl Danio (Celestichthys margaritatus)
Pro: Live 3-5 years

Gertrude’s Spotted Blue Eye Rainbowfish (Pseudomugil gertrudae)
Con: Only live to be 18 months because they breed often

Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish (Pseudomugil luminatus)
Con: Only live to be 24 months because they breed often

I really love the Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish best!

 

[ichthyogeek]

What are your thoughts on Danio erythromicron and Danio tinwini? Anything from the same karst valley system as CPDs should work.

Also, Pseudomugil cyanodorsalis. Just saying.

 

[Ryan Mosby]

Danio erythromicron has a similar gray coloration to CPDs that I'm not hugely fond of. Danio tinwini are beautiful, but I don't know if I'll have the right KH range for them.

Pseudomugil cyanodorsalis? I'M IN LOVE. It looks like they like hard water, and wow, their coloration is just--wow!

"It’s been recorded in full marine conditions as well as pure freshwater environments, and commonly inhabits coastal mangrove creeks and swamps." -SeriouslyFish

What kind of sorcery is this!?

As awesome as these are, I bet it'd be really hard to find a seller.

 

[Plinkploop]

Unless they are livebearers or other non picky breeders you're usually okay mixing sexes, many schoolers are hard to tell them apart.

 

[ichthyogeek]

Danio erythromicron has a similar gray coloration to CPDs that I'm not hugely fond of. Danio tinwini are beautiful, but I don't know if I'll have the right KH range for them.

Pseudomugil cyanodorsalis? I'M IN LOVE. It looks like they like hard water, and wow, their coloration is just--wow!

"It’s been recorded in full marine conditions as well as pure freshwater environments, and commonly inhabits coastal mangrove creeks and swamps." -SeriouslyFish

What kind of sorcery is this!?

As awesome as these are, I bet it'd be really hard to find a seller.

The same kind of sorcery as most other euryhaline fish like guppies and mollies. I'm mostly coming from the saltwater side (started with freshwater and it will always have a place in my heart), but saw this on a Youtuber's channel. Here's the video, and there's a link to the seller in the description:

D. tinwini come from the same location as CPDs I think. So if it's right for CPDs it should be right for tinwinis too.