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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this is getting ridiculous. I have gathered all the equipment I need to start adding CO2 to my 17g tank, but even after researching and planning, I am still feeling a bit unsure how to put it together, and so i keep putting off assembly day. If anyone could direct me to a thread, link, article, blog, diagram, or website that explains all the info that a Luddite would need to feel confident in safely assembling pressurized co2 equipment, I’d love to know about them. Thanks!
 

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Well this is getting ridiculous. I have gathered all the equipment I need to start adding CO2 to my 17g tank, but even after researching and planning, I am still feeling a bit unsure how to put it together, and so i keep putting off assembly day. If anyone could direct me to a thread, link, article, blog, diagram, or website that explains all the info that a Luddite would need to feel confident in safely assembling pressurized co2 equipment, I’d love to know about them. Thanks!
george farmer has one on youtube. or you can try dennis wong's site. first thing to consider is whether or not you mind micro bubbles in the water column. if you do, a reactor is efficient at dissolving co2. if you don't in-tank or inline diffusers are the way to go, especially on a smaller tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks @moke. I’ve seen the George Farmer video, or at least one of them. The one I’ve seen shows him setting up a pre-assembled system (can’t recall which brand), so it’s not real helpful to me in trying to make sure I have my own Frankenparts correctly assembled, or how to make sure that the various valves are properly open/shut, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have:
  • 2 (certifications expired) CO2 tanks, 5 lb and 10 lb (10 lb tank seems to be nearly full)
  • 2 single stage/dual gauge regulators (both work, only need one)
  • CO2 washer
  • 1/4 npt to 10/32 fitting (connects solenoid to regulator’s CO2 outlet I think?)
  • solenoid
  • bubble counter
  • 2 needle valves (1 to adjust CO2 flow rate; not sure what the other one does !)
  • CO2 tubing
  • quick connector (to attach CO2 tubing to bubble counter I think?)
  • timer for solenoid
  • Neo diffuser (I use HOB filter so this is an in-tank diffuser)
Thanks for your vote of confidence, El G!

1026837
 

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Honestly it looks like you are missing parts. Did you buy the co2 parts as a kit or just randomly on your own?

Here is a picture of my regulator (gages unscrewed) along with the post body kit I purchased



Here is is assembled:



Mine is different from yours because mine has the bubble counter built into the post body kit (the co2 line out will attach to the top of the bubble counter) but this gives you an idea.

I don't see the manifold the solenoid attaches to in your pile of parts nor do I know why you have 2 needle valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks @minorhero. I don’t know what a manifold is, or where it attaches, so maybe I’m missing that? I bought a post-body kit from a member here, and I think/thought I have everything needed, but obviously don’t claim to know what I’m talking about ...
 

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Thanks @minorhero. I don’t know what a manifold is, or where it attaches, so maybe I’m missing that? I bought a post-body kit from a member here, and I think/thought I have everything needed, but obviously don’t claim to know what I’m talking about ...
It looks like the same type of kit I have so you probably do have everything you need. Is it all pictured? Any pieces left in the box?

Anyway if you bought it from a member here they probably posted a picture in the forsale thread of it assembled. You can use that as a guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Might the “1/4 npt to 10/32 fitting” serve te same purpose as the “manifold” you mentioned, @minorhero? (Just a wild guess). And yes I’ve seen a photo of a similar post-body build from the seller but it’s not quite identical, and it doesn’t help me figure out if I’ve turned the various valves to the correct on/off/adjustment positions. Hence my caution ...
 

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Might the “1/4 npt to 10/32 fitting” serve te same purpose as the “manifold” you mentioned, @minorhero? (Just a wild guess). And yes I’ve seen a photo of a similar post-body build from the seller but it’s not quite identical, and it doesn’t help me figure out if I’ve turned the various valves to the correct on/off/adjustment positions. Hence my caution ...
The solonoid needs to screw into something to work. The little threaded nib on one end goes into a part, that part is the manifold I'm talking about. On mine its a little square right after the 90 degree elbow. Co2 leaves the regulator, goes into the manifold, and if the solenoid is open, continues, if its closed, it stops there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Im not sure but I think the solenoid is intended to screw into the 1/4 npt to 10/32 fitting?

??? Solenoid threads screw into this fitting ??? And then that fitting connects to the regulator somewhere/somehow ???

1026838
 

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??? Solenoid threads screw into this fitting ??? And then that fitting connects to the regulator somewhere/somehow ???

View attachment 1026838
Yes,hopefully the o ring is good.
That should attach to the reg outlet.
Your outlet is obscured so no idea if it fits directly or not .
Not sure if the thread size on the solenoid adapter.

You have 2 metering valves in line. Unusual but not err "wrong". I've run 2 as1000 like that and worked fine.

Glass thing? Bubble counter?
Blue fluid .for drop checker ( don't see one)
Blue black dual quick release
Glass bubble counter to tubing for diffusion disc.

As a guess atm nay need to remove the regulator outlet valve.
Replace it w/ the solenoid adapter (solenoid not attached).

If you have some sort of hose barb on the regulator outlet you will need to get hose abd a matching one to the solenoid adapter which at the moment I assume is male 1/4 npt.
 
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Thank you @jeffkrol. I will do some reading yo try to understand what/where the regulator Val e is and how to remove it, hose barbs, etc etc. I don’t understand the basic terminology so that makes things harder than it should be!
1026842


1026843
 

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Thank you @jeffkrol. I will do some reading to try to understand what/where the regulator valve is and how to remove it, hose barbs, etc etc. I don’t understand the basic terminology so that makes things harder than it should be!
1026844


Whats at this end is usually
5/16" barbed output for use with 5/16" ID hose
May be able to just remove the hose barb fitting and put the adapter there.

So alternate"
Would go on the solenoid adapter.

And a piece of 5/16 id (inside diameter) hose.
 

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Wow! That really is complicated. Totally worthy of starting a thread to get help. I use a little twice around wrap of silicone tape to keep the gas from leaking. The Airgas representative says it's bad for the regulator. I lost a full tank of gas before using the tape and my regulator instructions said to use it. My system is simplier than yours because I don't have a solenoid. It's going to be great once you get it set up.
 

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sorry, come to this thread late...

this is a kit I put together for Mickmac.

please follow the arrows to connect the parts, but need to take out the hose barb fitting at the outlet of the shutoff valve on the regulator, and use loctite sealant(small bottle with blue liquid) on the 1/4 npt threads of the fitting. do not need the loctite on the 10-32 threads(solenoid), and the O-ring on the base of the 10-32 stem will provide good seal.

wait at least 6 hours to apply pressure after assemble, because the loctite sealant need time to cure, and best if you wait 24 hours.



connect everything and make sure it has no leak, now set the regulator output pressure at about 40psi. (be careful, regulator handle counter clockwise at close position when you turn on the co2 cylinder)

To adjust the bubble rate:
two needle valves, both are SMC AS1000 series but different model.
First, open the white needle valve all the way, set the aluminum/metallic needle valve to max allowable bubble/flow rate(example: 8 bubbles/second), then lock the handle. The lock screw is below the handle, turn it against the handle will lock the needle valve.
Second/now, you can adjust the desired bubble/flow rate with the white needle valve, once the flow rate is set, you can lock this needle valve as well, it also has a lock screw below the handle, but turn it against the valve body to lock it.

long needle syringe is to fill the glass inline bubble counter from the top, with water.


here is a picture of the similar setting, make about 6 or 7 of this in 2013..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@Bettatail THANK YOU !!! Now I think I actually am starting to understand!!! Now it looks like the biggest hurdle will be removing the hose barb fitting. Looking online now to figure out how to do that — which tools to use, and where to apply them on the fitting (not sure what gets removed and where to put a wrench to properly remove it — yes I’m a dunce, sorry). Thank you very very much!
 

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View attachment 1026844

Whats at this end is usually

So alternate"
Would go on the solenoid adapter.

And a piece of 5/16 id (inside diameter) hose.
@Bettatail THANK YOU !!! Now I think I actually am starting to understand!!! Now it looks like the biggest hurdle will be removing the hose barb fitting. Looking online now to figure out how to do that — which tools to use, and where to apply them on the fitting (not sure what gets removed and where to put a wrench to properly remove it — yes I’m a dunce, sorry). Thank you very very much!
2 wrenches. One on each side.
You need to hold the valve body while you remove the hose barb
You don't t want the valve to start to turn out of the regulator body
 
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