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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

Starting a new high tech tank. Guess I should explain my setup.

92 gal bowfront with a 30 gal refugium. Tank is 24" deep. Have the LCD Timer 36" 234W 6x39W Fluorescent Actinic T5 HO Aquarium Light Fixture Marine light. Pressurized CO2: Milwaukee regulator, Greenleaf diffuser. J something bubble counter with check valve.

Have many questions:

1) Water out of tap is 7.6 ph; however, once it's aged it shoots up to 8.2. With the ph controller do I still need to age my water??

2) Do I still need to count the bubbles if I have a ph controller??

3) I'm using eco complete for substrate and I plan on using Flourish to start. Will that be enough??

4) My tank is all set up for a sump. I plan on having LOTS of shrimp; however, there are little holes at the bottom and top of the black back thingy that goes to the drain. Will my shrimp go through these small holes and get sucked down the drain pipe??

I'm sure I'll have more questions once I receive the answers to these.

Thanks in advance.

Penny
 

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1) I'm not sure what you mean by "aging" the water. All you need is dechlorinated water. There are other parameters that need to be met for whatever you plan on putting in the tank.

2) The CO2 on my high tech tank runs too fast to count bubbles. I only look at the bubble counter to troubleshoot.

3) Eco complete is crushed lava rock. All it does is make it difficult to plant in, and is an algae magnet. I wish I would have known that before I put 80 lbs in my tank. It's supposed to be cycled with bacteria. As far as I can tell, that might be the only upside of it. You are going to need to dose macro, and micro fertilizers. Flourish is only micro nutrients. I strongly suggest you buy dry ferts and mix them yourself at a fraction of the cost.

4) Yes, shrimp will fit through the cracks on an overflow. Especially the babies. I would think about keeping your base shrimp population in your sump. Shrimp love picking over filter media such as sponges. You could add adults to the main tank from time to time. You could also see what other shrimp keepers have done to prevent shrimp from going down an overflow. I used tight fitting sponges on the inside of the filter compartment to prevent this from happening in my spec V.

You will have greater than normal CO2 loss because of the sump. Surface area and agitation degas the CO2, so you will burn through it faster. Just to give you a heads up.

Best of luck!
 

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I am not sure how your ph controller will react when you do a water change when the tap water pH changes like that. Try this: run some tap water into a bucket and add a pump aimed vertically to circulate the water. See how fast this makes the pH change. Maybe you can age the water even faster, so there is less prep time needed.
Seachem Flourish is a series of half a dozen fertilizers in separate booklets. The plants need all the ferts from some source.
The product usually called Flourish is mostly traces. Get N, P, K, Fe as well as traces.
 

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Consider replacing your actinic T5 bulbs with something closer to 6700K. Dr Foster and Smith is a good source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the information.

I just sold my Discus; however, for 3 years because of the ph change I always aged my water. It is run through a filter with an inline heater and air stone in the barrel. It takes roughly about 8 hours to stabilize the ph. I am now trying to do a planted tank with fish that do not require so much work with the water I have. I am very new to this. Do you know where I can get N, P, K, and how much to use????

Thanks again.

Penny
 

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Thank you for the information.

I just sold my Discus; however, for 3 years because of the ph change I always aged my water. It is run through a filter with an inline heater and air stone in the barrel. It takes roughly about 8 hours to stabilize the ph. I am now trying to do a planted tank with fish that do not require so much work with the water I have. I am very new to this. Do you know where I can get N, P, K, and how much to use????

Thanks again.

Penny
I use the website aquariumfertilizer.com. they have all of the information on EI dosing (there are several dosing methods). Keep in mind though, that those numbers are for heavily planted tanks, which yours most likely will not be until the plants fill in.

My PH controller output is on a timer that I turn on an hour before lights on. I do my water changes after lights out. If you did the same, then your water could stabilize in the tank before your CO2 kicked on.
 
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