The Planted Tank Forum banner

Starting my first real planted tank - Looking for help

688 Views 7 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Guyver
Im new to high tech planted tanks - but here's what I have, and what I've collected from used setups Ive bought -

40 Breeder
New(ish) Finnex fuge ray 36" that was over my cichlid grow out tank
Eheim pro II canister
Eheim jaeger heater
C02 bottle and regulator attached to it (used- not sure if complete)
Some sort of thing that was in line for the canister filter - clear, cylinder, with what looks like bio balls in it? reactor of some sort? (looks like this thing -http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9918) I actually have 2 of these.

Does the tank need a glass top? Should it have one?

I want to do a heavily planted high tech tank, with lots of moss and the plant / decoration work that looks like underwater bonsai trees. Fish will be added later, if at all, maybe tetras or something.

What substrate and plants should I start with, and how should I start? My water is very hard (KH) and high PH as well (perfect for my cichlids) Thanks in advance for any help.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
1. Some sort of thing that was in line for the canister filter - clear, cylinder, with what looks like bio balls in it? reactor of some sort? (looks like this thing -http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9918) I actually have 2 of these.

2. Does the tank need a glass top? Should it have one?

3. What substrate and plants should I start with, and how should I start?
Welcome to the wonderful world of planted tanks! Let's get started:

1. Sounds like a reactor, depending on the bio balls. Are they the same as what are used for wet/dry sumps, or is it more fluidized like Purigen? Could be a reactor, but could be a fluidized bed filter as well.

2. Depends. Glass tops lower the evaporation rate and prevent jumpers like hatchet fish from getting out, but they block a good portion (10%+) of the light from your Fuge Ray. Your call.

3. I would suggest Miracle Gro Organic Potting Soil (MGOPM) with a cap of medium-grit pool filter sand (PFS) from a pool supply store, or sand-blasting grit from your hardware store. Wash both sand and MGOPM, remove floating organic debris from the MGOPM. Pack some PFS into the edges of the bottom of your tank, fill the center with 1.5" of MGOPM, top with PFS. This is called a Walstad dirted tank.

To start, I would buy some egg crate (a.k.a. light diffuser grating) and cut pieces to use under the substrate to help provide a slope from the back down to the front of the tank, which is advantageous in providing a visual "depth of field" to make your tank look bigger. Add your hardscape in. Do the substrate as stated above. Fill tank half way, plant your plants, set up hardware, top tank off, run tank and change water till the dust from the substrate/planting settles. Add fish & a bottle of ATM Colony or Tetra SafeStart if desired.

Some aquascaping tips - Smaller-leafed plants make your tank look bigger. Dwarf hairgrass is a great foreground plant. Blyxa Japonica, Anubias Nana, and mosses are nice mid-ground, and in the back plants like Rotala Macrandra "green" would be great. Get some trimming tools like scissors and tweezers and read up on how to trim your plants.

That's my advice. Hope it helps!
See less See more
I was planning on no fish at this point. Just plants.

I have egg crate left over from my 180.

Can i add plants as I go along with this setup?

The reactor thing has the same bio balls as a sump. I have two of them. I assume I only need one. They came with my used 180 setup which is now a Mbuna tank.

The Co2 tank, has a regulator, some sort of solenoid that plugs in, and a needle valve with a clear tube and a nipple on the end. I think this is the bubble counter?
Could be a bubble counter, or a check valve, or both. You'll only need one reactor. Is there a small barbed nipple to accept CO2 tubing?

Is your CO2 tank filled? How big is it (i.e. how many pounds of liquid CO2 is it designed to hold)? Is the regulator single gage or dual gage (i.e. does it have an output gage or an input/CO2 tank gage as well)? You could see if you can find part numbers on any of your components and do a Google Search for the part numbers. Sounds a little like you have a Milwaukee (sp?) setup.

You can add plants as you go, just keep in mind with a dirted tank you can have some serious problems if you try to pull up any existing plants, as their root systems might entrain some of the MGOPM into the tank and cause nitrate/phosphate spikes.
Yes there are small barb fittings.

tank is empty, and 10 pounds :

See less See more
Looks like a great setup. My CO2 system is a canabilization from an old keg tap setup, plus other random parts. Put the solenoid on a timer with your lights, get a drop checker to monitor CO2 levels in your tank, and maybe get a small scale to put under the CO2 tank to measure how much liquid CO2 you have left in the tank, and you should be good to go!
The regulator is defintely some sort of cheap chinese deal. No part number. Solenoid has a part #, made in china, etc. One of the gauges is broken I belive on the regulator

ETA- I also have a old , good condition welding regulator around here somewhere I could use.... But Id need a cga320 fitting for it. This one is all one piece
You can replace a gage easily enough, IF you can find the part number. Get some Teflon pipe tape and leak check your system with soap bubble testing. And don't double up on the gaskets between the regulator and CO2 tank. I drained my CO2 tank in 3 days that way, even after doing a leak check.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top