it's not a pain if you can remember to shut off your co2 every day manually. If you leave it on overnight, you could over gas all your fish/shrimps in your tank. f you forget to turn it on then you'll get a tank full of algae. If you leave it running 24/7 you'll run out of co2 a lot quicker. etc. Solenoids aren't even that expensive don't cheap out... you have a pressurized cylinder in your house cheaping out may be a costly mistake.
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Did you just tell me not to cheap out???? Im so insulted!!!
LOL.. Im just kidding.. I agree with you.. really I do.. I just wanted to know if it was a hassle with out one.. and I think I already know the answer..
LOL.. Im just kidding.. I agree with you.. really I do.. I just wanted to know if it was a hassle with out one.. and I think I already know the answer..
Thanks for all your advice guys..
I just ordered a Solenoid to go with the sytem I have.. and I will be patient and wait till I have everything before I go live..
I just ordered a Solenoid to go with the sytem I have.. and I will be patient and wait till I have everything before I go live..
Not exactly. pH and kH are directly related so this may be somewhat true if you have a low kH, say 2-3 degrees. Once you get up to 5,6, 7 degree range small changes in pH cause large changes in co2 concentration.
Look at this table:
If you're aiming for the standard 30 ppm of co2 and have a kH of 7 your target pH is 6.8. That results in 33.3 ppm of CO2 at that pH and kH. If the pH goes to 6.7 suddenly your CO2 concentration is 41.9 ppm. HUGE difference. That's just a tenth on the pH scale. The electronics we use aren't even that accurate. If your probe is just two tenths off that could be the difference between 33.3 ppm and 52.7 ppm. This is hardly error proof especially once you factor in that the kH of your tap water likely swings a degree or two throughout the year. This is due to snow melt, etc. A degree or two can be a lot if you look at the chart. Too many factors, too many unknowns, which is why using co2 to control pH is something I stay away from.
It's much safer to start at a low co2 level and SLOWLY turn up the needle valve while watching the fish and plants. Then your only real worry is an EOTD, which is easily avoided with a 2 stage reg.
Not exactly. pH and kH are directly related so this may be somewhat true if you have a low kH, say 2-3 degrees. Once you get up to 5,6, 7 degree range small changes in pH cause large changes in co2 concentration.
Look at this table:
![]()
If you're aiming for the standard 30 ppm of co2 and have a kH of 7 your target pH is 6.8. That results in 33.3 ppm of CO2 at that pH and kH. If the pH goes to 6.7 suddenly your CO2 concentration is 41.9 ppm. HUGE difference. That's just a tenth on the pH scale. The electronics we use aren't even that accurate. If your probe is just two tenths off that could be the difference between 33.3 ppm and 52.7 ppm. This is hardly error proof especially once you factor in that the kH of your tap water likely swings a degree or two throughout the year. This is due to snow melt, etc. A degree or two can be a lot if you look at the chart. Too many factors, too many unknowns, which is why using co2 to control pH is something I stay away from.
It's much safer to start at a low co2 level and SLOWLY turn up the needle valve while watching the fish and plants. Then your only real worry is an EOTD, which is easily avoided with a 2 stage reg.
Good info, seems I didn't think about it on the higher KH end. I have low KH 0-1 from the tap. I also do not dial my C02 in where my fish are gasping and then pull back a little. I think running C02 that close to maximum is too close for comfort. I like to leave a small gap for error and also room for leaching KH from my hard scape rocks.
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