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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can you use the hot air type rework guns?
Any issues..
I'm a bit tired of iron soldering.. and the heaters seem more "efficient"..

Could be wrong.. so your opinion counts........
 

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I use the dc powered soldering iron from home depot and it works very well for me. What I do is melt some solder on the star first, then tin the wire and do just a quick touch on the star to solder them together. Check my video for refetence reference
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Stick with the conventional soldering iron. Using hot air would probably melt the solder holding the Led to the star before melting the solder needed to attach the wires. Not an outcome you'd be happy with.LOL
 

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Pixel Prestidigitator
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When you are soldering you heat the wire and let the wire melt the solder. Any other way and you have a cold joint which is weak and can cause problems down the road.
 

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Stick with the conventional soldering iron. Using hot air would probably melt the solder holding the Led to the star before melting the solder needed to attach the wires. Not an outcome you'd be happy with.LOL
LOL I know, I've soldered a bunch of LED "eggs" to stars.. taught me to just to buy them attached already.. Besides the price dif was minimal..

When you are soldering you heat the wire and let the wire melt the solder. Any other way and you have a cold joint which is weak and can cause problems down the road.
Yea that happens once and awhile but I probably had more "oversolders" where it was shorting out to the star aluminum and of course the heatsink..

And then some of the short ends w/ stiff wire have a tendency to lift.. due to the strain of attaching/reattaching to the power cable side.. Partially due to cs sometimes.. ;)
I'm shifting to terminal blocks to avoid that ..
 

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Pixel Prestidigitator
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Jeff the key is just the right amount of solder. Trick to it is to "tin" the wire and the place where you are soldering to whether another wire or a lug. I've soldered everything from PC boards to heavy wire and rarely had a cold solder joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeff the key is just the right amount of solder. Trick to it is to "tin" the wire and the place where you are soldering to whether another wire or a lug. I've soldered everything from PC boards to heavy wire and rarely had a cold solder joint.
My bigger problem is getting and maintaining an iron that I have decent control over.. Most of the time the tips go wonky (I do know this is my fault.. ;)) or just doesn't do what I want them to do.. Which is why I had the question of "hot air" soldering .. More to my liking based on track record... ;)

Last pencil soldering iron I got I couldn't even tin the tip (cheap Chinese "stuff" and instantly "blackened") and ended up getting frustrated...

I've been eying those dual workstations on [Ebay Link Removed] Trying to justify it for soldering and shrink wrapping ect.. Unfortunately the "real" ones are expensive and I have no idea which cheap brand is better (or they are all the same)

Then there is the Weller analog soldering stations.. fair price.. but back to the pencil again.
 

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Pixel Prestidigitator
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A Weller won't give you problems though. Did you use a little sandpaper on the tip then rosin flux then tin? Usually works on the cheap stuff you like. (By cheap I mean expensive because you buy it for little money than spend hours trying to get it to work right. Time is money)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A Weller won't give you problems though. Did you use a little sandpaper on the tip then rosin flux then tin? Usually works on the cheap stuff you like.
I wrecked the tip.. so I'll eventually get it to work.. ;)

Time is money
Not according to some people.. ;)
Anyways.. a related question is, since I was wee little I've used copper tips.. whats up w/ these steel coated copper ones??
Whos dumb idea was it..
Even used those big copper irons to do galv. steel tanks for the backyard.. :) using acid flux to remove the zinc. I don't remember
the exact acid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Decided to go w/ a Hakko... I think..
 
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