[BoxxerBoyDrew]

Hey TPT!!!

Well I am almost finished with my hood for my 55g, and I am now installing my AH Supply 54w T5HO x2 kit, and it came with the standard wire nuts for the connections. But being a MECP Certified 12v Audio and Electronics installer I prefer to solder my connections, and use adhesive Lined Marine grade Shrink Wrap to insulate my work in Cars and Boats. But when it comes to solid wire I have VERY LITTLE Experience! So I looked up info online about connecting the 2 different wires and it says no problem. BUT when it comes to Fluorescents I know they can be temperamental about their connections!

SO When hooking up the Power cord (stranded) to the Ballast Power Inputs (solid) will it be OK to solder the connections? As I really really don't like wire nuts where the connections will be stressed due to moving/removing the hood for tank maintenance, ect...!


Thanks for Yalls input!
Drew

 

[MoeBetta]

Yeah Drew, that'll be fine.

 

[Postal Penguin]

Should be fine. The only problem might be the stranded wire "soaking" up a bunch of solder but it will still make a good connection.

 

[BoxxerBoyDrew]

AWESOME!!

Thanks for the quick help !!!!!

I just hate Wire Nuts!!!:angryfire

Drewroud:

 

[[email protected]]

Switch to Ideal brand In-Sure Push-In Wire Connectors.
http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=in-sure&div=0&l1=push-in

They're only expensive for those who don't value their time.

 

[BoxxerBoyDrew]

dbosman,

Thanks for the link, but i prefer to solder so I know it's a good connection! Not saying the In-Sure connections wouldn't be, as I have never used them, but with over 20 years of installing 12v electronics I have come to trust my soldering skills.

I can see where the In-Sure connectors would be a HUGE improvement to other type of connectors, and I put the link in my favorites because I would like to try them where a connector would be your ONLY OPTION! So THANK YOU for telling me/us about them!!!

Again Guys THANKS!!!
Drew

 

[redfishsc]

As long as you twist the two wires together well, the solder will do a great job of ensuring that they don't pull loose. I prefer to twist them together forming a straight line and then covering with heatshrink, but I've also twisted them together side/by/side, soldered, and taped (for 12v low voltage stuff at least).

 

[m00se]

Just tin the stranded wire then twist together with the solid, and solder - easy peasy. No gotchas there. Btw, where do you buy your shrink tubing? I used to be in a related biz to yours and lost my distributor connections (I also moved out of that area long ago). I sure would love to get my mitts on some.

 

[kamikazi]

why not just use a wire nut

 

[[email protected]]

why not just use a wire nut

BoxxerBoyDrew does installs on automobiles. Wire nuts come loose.
Thermal expansion & contraction and motion will shake them off. Taping them in place just delays the loosening. Or hides it well. Proper mechanical connections, soldered, will not loosen. Encasing them in heat shrink tubing protects the joint. Properly soldered connections inside adhesive lined marine grade heat shrink will outlive the boat or car owners interest in that specific electronics device.
There are some neat splice fixtures that have a ring of solder inside clear heat shrink tubing. You put the wires in to the marked depth and use a heat gun to shrink the tubing and solder the connection.

Wire nuts on fluorescent fixtures in a home, not in a motor home or boat, will work, but wire nuts still can loosen. Put the light fixture over a humid environment such as an aquarium and moisture will - not can - will, get into the connector and exacerbate oxidation. The Ideal push in connectors I use can collect some moisture, but they won't trap it like a wire nut can.

Moisture hastened oxidation is one reason old aquarium light fixtures that have "died" quite often work after you take them apart and put them back together again. You scrape enough oxide off the wires and connectors as you take it apart.