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So frustrated with algae...please help me

1261 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  captain_bu
I have a 50 gallon tank (Valse in my sig) that used to so so healthy. I have to admit that I neglected it over the summer, and I just can't seem to get it back into shape. I've tried so many things and nothing seems to work! I want to cry every time I look at this tank. First of all, here are the issues:

1. green spot algae all over the glass
2. a fuzzy green algae all over the glass, too.
3. My plants have stopped growing properly.

And here's everything I've done to get it back into shape (unsuccessfully):

1a. Lights are on for 6 hours per day (2x T5HO bulbs)
1b. Tried using only one bulb for less hours
2. Pressurized CO2 --green drop checker
3. cleaned filters and did a couple of large water changes
4. I tried not dosing ferts for awhile, but then when nothing changed and my plants stopped growing, I started dosing again (EI).
5. At the same time as not dosing, I tried overdosing excel and hydrogen peroxide.

NOTHING works. I'm so upset. I desperately want a nice tank again and I'm willing to do what it takes to get there. I honestly have never had such a difficult time maintaining a tank. My other planted tank, "Tango" is doing really well, and I can't really pinpoint a difference in care between the two tanks.

I've been trying to get this tank back into shape for almost two months now, and nothing I do works. I have a feeling that if I can make my plants grow well, I can get rid of the algae. With all that light, CO2, and nutrients, I just can't figure out why the plants won't grow! Please help me if you can :icon_frow
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While something is out of whack in your tank, an easy way to get the algae off your glass is to use filter floss. It will quickly pull everything off and your tank will at least start looking cleaner. Pull out all of the algae you can, trim back plants that may be shading much of the tank and see what happens. You might have to start dosing fertz again to get the plants to outgrow the algae. You might also try 2 photoperiods for 3 -4 hrs each as the plants can benefit from that light and the algae will not.
You might also try 2 photoperiods for 3 -4 hrs each as the plants can benefit from that light and the algae will not.
Could you explain this process a little more? I mean, the process is simple, but do you know why it works? This is the first I've heard of such a method, and if it works, why don't we all do it? Sounds interesting. Does it matter how far apart you set the photoperiods? Could you do three 3 hour photoperiods, for instance?
Could you explain this process a little more? I mean, the process is simple, but do you know why it works? This is the first I've heard of such a method, and if it works, why don't we all do it? Sounds interesting. Does it matter how far apart you set the photoperiods? Could you do three 3 hour photoperiods, for instance?
While a lot of people claim that that a split photoperiod helps to prevent algae there is no definitive proof that it does. I.E it seems to work for some and not for others so there are other factors at play. Lots of people run continuous light and do not have problems with algae so a continuous photoperiod is not a bad thing. It certainly can't hurt to try a split photoperiod but don't expect miracles.

FWIW.... not dosing ferts in an attempt to control algae is not a good idea. Healthy plants do not develop problems with algae. Starving your plants is not a way to grow healthy plants. The higher the intensity of light the quicker they will starve and stunt if you don't feed them. Concentrate on growing plants, not killing algae and over time things will straighten out as you get better at growing plants. To grow plants well you have to learn how to provide adequate ferts and CO2 for the light intensity that you are using. Dosing ferts is easy and repeatable, stable light levels are also easy to provide, providing proper CO2 is much harder. Concentrate on CO2 and circulation. Using lower light levels makes dialing in CO2 much easier.

After neglecting a tank for months it can take quite a while to repair the damage. Good maintenance and stable conditions need to be re-established and kept up with. Plants need time to adjust to changes and do best when grown under stable conditions. If you lose patience and try something different every week out of frustration it just takes longer for the tank to come around.
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While a lot of people claim that that a split photoperiod helps to prevent algae there is no definitive proof that it does. I.E it seems to work for some and not for others so there are other factors at play. Lots of people run continuous light and do not have problems with algae so a continuous photoperiod is not a bad thing. It certainly can't hurt to try a split photoperiod but don't expect miracles.

FWIW.... not dosing ferts in an attempt to control algae is not a good idea. Healthy plants do not develop problems with algae. Starving your plants is not a way to grow healthy plants. The higher the intensity of light the quicker they will starve and stunt if you don't feed them. Concentrate on growing plants, not killing algae and over time things will straighten out as you get better at growing plants. To grow plants well you have to learn how to provide adequate ferts and CO2 for the light intensity that you are using. Dosing ferts is easy and repeatable, stable light levels are also easy to provide, providing proper CO2 is much harder. Concentrate on CO2 and circulation. Using lower light levels makes dialing in CO2 much easier.

After neglecting a tank for months it can take quite a while to repair the damage. Good maintenance and stable conditions need to be re-established and kept up with. Plants need time to adjust to changes and do best when grown under stable conditions. If you lose patience and try something different every week out of frustration it just takes longer for the tank to come around.
Yeh, what he said. All kidding aside you need to be patient. Continue trying to grow your plants not ungrow algae. 2 T5HO bulbs is a significant amount of light. How high off the tank is the fixture? 4dKH distilled water in your drop checker? Good circulation thoughout the tank? If you have those bulbs right on top of the tank I'd say you are not providing enough CO2 for that intensity. Mine are over a foot above the tank. I use a DIY reactor that is 6" diameter 24" tall with a reverse flow though bio balls and a bubble rate that is way to fast to count powered by a mag pump. Granted, I have a wet/dry sump set up but it is sealed up pretty well. Since we typically don't have the instruments to measure CO2 accurately it's tough to really know if you in fact have enough.
The light fixture is sitting right on top of the tank (so about 4" off the water surface). I have two AC70s for filtration and yes, it is 4dKH solution in the drop checker. I'll turn up the CO2 little by little and hold back if the fish look distressed at all.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try this for at least a few weeks and see what happens. I will post an update if anything changes. And I'll make sure to take a picture now so that you can see the difference. Thanks :)
The light fixture is sitting right on top of the tank (so about 4" off the water surface). I have two AC70s for filtration and yes, it is 4dKH solution in the drop checker. I'll turn up the CO2 little by little and hold back if the fish look distressed at all.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try this for at least a few weeks and see what happens. I will post an update if anything changes. And I'll make sure to take a picture now so that you can see the difference. Thanks :)
What about using window screen to cut down on light intensity? Or if you can hang your fixture from the ceiling. Mine is hanging by chains so I can raise or lower it quite easily. I'm suggesting this route based on the fact that you have 4dKH in your drop checker and you have a pressurized system. I'd hate to see you gas your fish.
Well, it's a Catalina fixture with multiple switches so I could just use one bulb for awhile. Would that be better? Hanging the light fixture sounds like a project and I'm not sure where the chains would attach to the fixture:redface:
I believe Catalina sells a leg kit to help raise the fixture off the top of your tank, and it may or may not be enough of a height difference. But from what I've heard, the people at Catalina are excellent at providing individual solutions. Perhaps you could call them and ask about kits or options other than a leg kit to help you hang the fixture above the tank.

Often you can get "Plant" brackets at the home improvement store (the L-shaped brackets that you screw into your deck railing for example, and hang a potted basket plant from). You can then drill a small hole and insert framing wire into your fixture and suspend from these plant brackets. That's a simple way to do it, and you can find some fairly decorative plant brackets, too, if the visual aspect of it is of concern. Anyway - just some ideas.
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The Catalina legs are horrible. If you can hang the fixture it not only can be adjusted infinitely but you can easily get into the tank for maintenance, pulling out floating dead leaves etc.

I heard that the newer Catalina fixtures ship with the grommets to hang them installed. When I bought mine they didn't come that way. I got a hanging kit from Catalina but had to take the fixture apart so I could safely drill two holes in the top and install the grommets. I didn't care for the hanging kit Catalina used to sell and ended up using chain. They may offer a better hanging kit now, call them and see what they suggest.

You don't have to hang the fixture from the ceiling. I made my own ADA style light bars. Do a search in the DIY forum for "ADA style light bar". There is a long thread telling you how to make them including pictures of various styles you can make. You may be able to get the conduit bent for you when you buy it.
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