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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I thought I had posted this but it was on Scape. This is a rack that I have been thinking about for a long time. These pictures are a few weeks old but I have been doing some work on the rack the last few days. I will try to post some more pictures. The containers range from 2 gallons to I think about 3 or 4. It will have one central filtration system with a chiller. Each level with have two T 5 standard output lights. The rack is a bakers rack and on wheels so it will be easy to move if I need to. This rack will be used to house species that require lower water temperatures and for species that I only have a few of so that I can keep an eye on them better. Feel free to comment.
 

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Very nice.

Make sure the boxes are polycarbonate - they most likely are if they are pet boxes. Other clear polymers will develop stress cracks from the bulkhead drilling, causing catastrophic failure eventually when the cracks shatter.

Make sure all electrics are sourced to GFCI circuits.

Make sure your T5 bulb (lamp) ends are capped so you can't accidentally touch the metal end of the bulb with a wet hand or metal net handle, etc. If you can't find end caps, then wrap the metal with electrical tape, covering the exposed metal.

Might also want to think about making some wheel chucks for when you don't want the cart to move. Or maybe it has locking wheels - make sure the WHEELS are rated for the weight you intend.

Flexwatt bed heating (outside and underneath the boxes) is a good option for thin walled bins like these and keeps the internals less cluttered in a small box. You have to pair the flexwatt with a controller such as a reptitherm 500R.

And leak frogs or the like under the cart are your friend. :wink:

DK
 

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Very nice.

Make sure the boxes are polycarbonate - they most likely are if they are pet boxes. Other clear polymers will develop stress cracks from the bulkhead drilling, causing catastrophic failure eventually when the cracks shatter.

Make sure all electrics are sourced to GFCI circuits.

Make sure your T5 bulb (lamp) ends are capped so you can't accidentally touch the metal end of the bulb with a wet hand or metal net handle, etc. If you can't find end caps, then wrap the metal with electrical tape, covering the exposed metal.

Might also want to think about making some wheel chucks for when you don't want the cart to move. Or maybe it has locking wheels - make sure the WHEELS are rated for the weight you intend.

Flexwatt bed heating (outside and underneath the boxes) is a good option for thin walled bins like these and keeps the internals less cluttered in a small box. You have to pair the flexwatt with a controller such as a reptitherm 500R.

And leak frogs or the like under the cart are your friend. :wink:

DK

Interesting information. FYI that rack doesnt have wheels. I have the same kind/brand. But I would have never even though about that if I had one with wheels.

I also really like this setup. Something Ive been wanting to do as well.
 

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I'm loving the way it looks!! More info on products used and pics please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Interesting information. FYI that rack doesnt have wheels. I have the same kind/brand. But I would have never even though about that if I had one with wheels.

I also really like this setup. Something Ive been wanting to do as well.
You can purchase wheels seperate and add them.They screw into the bottom of each leg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you for the information.


Very nice.

Make sure the boxes are polycarbonate - they most likely are if they are pet boxes. Other clear polymers will develop stress cracks from the bulkhead drilling, causing catastrophic failure eventually when the cracks shatter.

The material is Styrene plastic

Make sure all electrics are sourced to GFCI circuits.

Yep got that covered

Make sure your T5 bulb (lamp) ends are capped so you can't accidentally touch the metal end of the bulb with a wet hand or metal net handle, etc. If you can't find end caps, then wrap the metal with electrical tape, covering the exposed metal.

The T5 units have a plastic sheild so that is covered as well. The picture I took shows them off.

Might also want to think about making some wheel chucks for when you don't want the cart to move. Or maybe it has locking wheels - make sure the WHEELS are rated for the weight you intend.

The wheels have locks.

Flexwatt bed heating (outside and underneath the boxes) is a good option for thin walled bins like these and keeps the internals less cluttered in a small box. You have to pair the flexwatt with a controller such as a reptitherm 500R.

I have a Hydor inline for the system and a controller to control both the chiller and heater.

And leak frogs or the like under the cart are your friend. :wink:

Have not got one yet but probably will.

DK
 

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I used zip ties to hold the lights up on my racks :^)

Remember that the t5's put off a good deal of heat, even single fixtures.
I'd suggest a buffer between the lights and the metal stand. Make sure its heat resistance is good.
They can melt foam... meh.

Seems like they are touching, over 8 hours it could change the temperature of your tank by a couple degrees... with your chiller I'm thinking you're looking for stability, watch out!

Just my two cents.

-Gordon
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. The chiller is a 1/4 hp one. The controller is digital and set to 1 degree plus or minus of the set number. There are only two points where the fixture attaches to the rack. All material is metal so it should be fine.
I will have the rack up and running for at least a week before I add animals to it.

I used zip ties to hold the lights up on my racks :^)

Remember that the t5's put off a good deal of heat, even single fixtures.
I'd suggest a buffer between the lights and the metal stand. Make sure its heat resistance is good.
They can melt foam... meh.

Seems like they are touching, over 8 hours it could change the temperature of your tank by a couple degrees... with your chiller I'm thinking you're looking for stability, watch out!

Just my two cents.

-Gordon
 
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