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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just set up my tank, and turned on my brand new Eheim 2215. There seems to be a very slight, and it is very slight, leak in the connection at the top that connects the pump to the tubing which connects the double connector valves.

This is the very first connection from the output side of the pump.

Is this normal maybe until the threads gunk up? I notice you cant really wrench the odd mechanism that connects the tubing to output pump. Seems the plastic "nuts" sort of want to warp.

I have already tried replacing the small amount of tubing thinking that the end wasn't cut straight enough, thus possibly not making the best seal, but this new piece of tubing was cut very nice and yet there is still just the tiniest amount of water leaking out.


I'd say it's about 1 drop every 2 hours, maybe even more.

Any thoughts or tips? Is this something to return the pump over?
 

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Maybe a picture would help me understand the issue more, but when I had a leak on my old canister filter I attached some hose clamps to the hose and that helped, not sure if you can remove that plastic but and just put a hose clamp over the hose into of the barb or not.
 

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Is this normal maybe until the threads gunk up? I notice you cant really wrench the odd mechanism that connects the tubing to output pump. Seems the plastic "nuts" sort of want to warp.

I have already tried replacing the small amount of tubing thinking that the end wasn't cut straight enough, thus possibly not making the best seal, but this new piece of tubing was cut very nice and yet there is still just the tiniest amount of water leaking out.
Firstly, how square is the cut does not matter much, as long as it is not wildly off. It is not the end of the tube that creates the seal. It is the inner wall of the tube that creates the seal with the barb.

Secondly, what do you mean by "plastic nuts sort of want to warp"? The plastic nut is supposed to be backed up over the hose and thus press the hose into the barb, sealing the connection. Did you do that? This should not require much torque, so I don't see how anything can warp there.
 

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It should not leak at all.

Screw the plastic nut all the way down, push the tubing as much as you can down onto the barb towards the nut, hold the tube in one hand and screw the nut onto the tube with another hand.

Warming the tubing a bit makes it easier to push it onto the barb. Some people use hot water, I use a hair dryer.

Or post a close up picture of the connection.

GL.

v3
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the hose completely over the barb and then hand tightened the nut almost as tight as I can.

This connection is the very first connection from the top of the filter which is the part that sends water back to the tank. The nut is attached to the top part of the filter (the part that houses the pump.)


I will try to get a close up photo too.
 

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I think I know what connection you mean as I have exactly the same filter.

As aquarist pointed out, a $.50 metal ~3/4" hose clamp will work wonders.

v3
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, here is the images of the connection in question, and an image of the filter. CLose ups are from the first connection coming from the very top of the filter with the water returning to the tank.





 

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I personally do not see much, if anything wrong.
I do see the highest ridge of the barb through the tubbing - I would want the top edge of the plastic ring closer to, if not covering, that ridge.

If that drop annoys you (it would me), I would re-do that connection once more, pushing the tubbing down over the barb and screwing the washer over it more tightly against the barb's ridge.

If that fails, hose clamp to the rescue :(.

Edit: is it possible that the drops are comming from higher up, sliding down the hose? Wrapping a tissue / paper towel around the hose above the connection, secured with a rubber band, is one way to test it.

v3
 

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What I have found is the mold that creates that plastic piece leaves a small bump or line were the hose slides over so I had to take a nail file and smooth it out then the leak went away
 

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I got the hose completely over the barb and then hand tightened the nut almost as tight as I can.
What does "tightened" mean here?

Note that after attaching the hose you are supposed to unscrew the nut to make it back up over the barb. As the nut passes over the barb, you will feel it tightening. But again, you are supposed to rotate the nut in the reverse direction (counterclockwise, unscrew) while doing it.
 

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Ok, here is the images of the connection in question, and an image of the filter.
Hm... It has been a while since I worked with this filter, but if memory serves a properly tightened (in reverse direction) nut has to cover the barb. In your pictures I can see the barb very clearly, i.e. it is not covered by the nut. Of course, this depends on the thickness of the tube walls. Everything might be done correctly in your case, if your walls are thicker
 

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When you screw that nut out you can actually push the hose off if you aren't careful. The big thing is backing it all the way down, put the hose on, and then tighten the nut.
 

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I have had many Eheims over the years. In fact I just installed a 2nd 2215 on my 75 gallon planted this weekend. I have never had one leak.....this is how I do it.

The first thing I do is put a kettle of boiling water on the stove. I heat each piece of tubing for a minute or so or until it is soft and pliable. I then push it as far down on the barb as it will go. Before I tighten the other piece I run it under cold water; doing so really shrinks the tubing around barb. Finally, I screw the other piece up , but not overly tight.

Doing it this was takes longer but has always worked for me with any canister filter.
 
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