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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've got a regulator that has worked great for years but recently the pressure adjustment knob isn't working properly. turning to reduce pressure does not work and turning to increase, definitely does that. Can I disassemble it and replace any specific parts or should I just trash it and buy a new regulator? If it is rebuildable, what is a good source for parts in the USA? Thank you!

EDIT: Here's a short vid of the problem - https://youtu.be/EfJfAlDiQHY
 

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I've got a regulator that has worked great for years but recently the pressure adjustment knob isn't working properly. turning to reduce pressure does not work and turning to increase, definitely does that. Can I disassemble it and replace any specific parts or should I just trash it and buy a new regulator? If it is rebuildable, what is a good source for parts in the USA? Thank you!
My knowledge in this area is limited at best right now; but that sounds really strange. If the pressure adjustment knob can increase the pressure I would assume it could also decrease. Maybe the gauge is whats broken? What kind of regulator is this?

.....interested in seeing your rex if I understand that username correct too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't remember the regulator brand. I'll check this evening after work. The pressure is definitely increasing as you can hear it flow out at a much higher rate and pop hoses off of barbs. But for some reason I cannot reduce the flow to zero using the main knob. There has to be a valve inside that I can replace, but I'd like to hear if it's easily done or if I need specialty tools and such. If I need specialty tools, I'll just buy a new one.

Here are the more recent pictures. Not much has changed but the motor. High compression 175whp B18B with ITR trans. Love this car, but it hasn't really been driven in several years. thinking about selling it at some point to buy a newer project car.

**--Isabella Frost buildup thread--** - Page 6 - Honda-Tech
 

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I don't remember the regulator brand. I'll check this evening after work. The pressure is definitely increasing as you can hear it flow out at a much higher rate and pop hoses off of barbs. But for some reason I cannot reduce the flow to zero using the main knob. There has to be a valve inside that I can replace, but I'd like to hear if it's easily done or if I need specialty tools and such. If I need specialty tools, I'll just buy a new one.

Here are the more recent pictures. Not much has changed but the motor. High compression 175whp B18B with ITR trans. Love this car, but it hasn't really been driven in several years. thinking about selling it at some point to buy a newer project car.

**--Isabella Frost buildup thread--** - Page 6 - Honda-Tech
Tough to say what you'll need to fix the reg or if its even fixable without knowing a bit more or maybe seeing it.

Car looks good! I haven't been over on HT in years lol! I've got a del sol with a built n/a single cam d16 making about 141 to the wheels. Hasnt been on the road in a few years......kids sort of put a damper on the idea of a two seater! But I refuse to get rid of it!
 

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There are a number of the "name" brand single stage regs that do have kits for repair and it can be done with some pretty simple tools. IF it is a common one like Cornelios, a search online may find the kit. Brew places often stock them if you have any local to you? Things are often cheaper at brew places. Maybe beer drinkers have less money than fishkeepers????
This is one near me:
Regulator Repair Kit (Cornelius)
One reason for me to use single stage is that I can repair them. Dual stage often take special tools/talent.

But then it will pay to check/double check that it is really the reg. Some things that might trip you up are bad meters as mentioned. If the low pressure gets hit with high pressure it can bend the inside mechanics and make them fail to go back to zero. This is pretty common and can happen when the low pressure adjustment is not backed off fully before the CO2 tank valve is opened. The reg can take a few seconds to really get it's stuff together and start regulating. Meanwhile it can let 800+PSI hit the low pressure gauge. DOES NOT like!

Another way regs can fail is when tank water backs up into the reg. The minerals in the water can set up hard water deposits and make a line like you find in a tea kettle. This line can form a ridge where the inside of the reg won't slide past as certain point to do it's job. Depends much on what reg but it is sometimes possible to take the reg apart, gently scrape/sand/smooth off the ridge. Do this with care if trying as any major scratch can make the reg leak past the diaphram. Type of thing I do when the reg is junk or I might fix it? I have little to lose at that point so charge ahead!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's a Western Enterprises single stage regulator. I'll contact them to see if I can get a rebuild kit or anything. It seems to be a medical grade regulator...I got it at a yard sale years ago. It has the model # M1 940 PG stamped on the face around the pressure adjustment knob. I doubt water is backing into it. I use an inline coke bottle bubble counter with check valves on both lines to it and a Fabco needle valve between it and the regulator for fine adjustments.
 

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It's a Western Enterprises single stage regulator. I'll contact them to see if I can get a rebuild kit or anything. It seems to be a medical grade regulator...I got it at a yard sale years ago. It has the model # M1 940 PG stamped on the face around the pressure adjustment knob. I doubt water is backing into it. I use an inline coke bottle bubble counter with check valves on both lines to it and a Fabco needle valve between it and the regulator for fine adjustments.
I'd try to diagnose this better before ordering parts. What happens if you close the tank, and relieve the pressure and/or remove the reg from the tank? Does the gauge zero out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'd try to diagnose this better before ordering parts. What happens if you close the tank, and relieve the pressure and/or remove the reg from the tank? Does the gauge zero out?
the gauge(s) does go to zero when there is no pressure. When I have it connected to and open the tank, no matter which way I turn the adjustment knob on the regulator, the pressure rises.
 

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the gauge(s) does go to zero when there is no pressure. When I have it connected to and open the tank, no matter which way I turn the adjustment knob on the regulator, the pressure rises.
Well then something is certainly not right! I'll let someone with more knowledge than me chime in here because I'm out of ideas!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah, my next step may be to disassemble the thing and see if there is anything obviously wrong. I just didn't want to do that if it required precision tools for reassembly, and it appears that it doesn't.
 

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We can sometimes mess with the old mind when we get into things like this. Not to beat a dead horse, so excuse me if it appears to be what I'm doing? When you are checking the way the reg works, do you have a way for the pressure to escape through the output? Like an open tube or being certain the solenoid is letting gas through?
Line of thought is that you might possibly be seeing the pressure go higher each time you turn it up but if you do not release that pressure, the meter will not go down when you turn the adjustment as the gas is still trapped.
If there is something not letting the gas pass, it might give the weird result you report?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We can sometimes mess with the old mind when we get into things like this. Not to beat a dead horse, so excuse me if it appears to be what I'm doing? When you are checking the way the reg works, do you have a way for the pressure to escape through the output? Like an open tube or being certain the solenoid is letting gas through?
Line of thought is that you might possibly be seeing the pressure go higher each time you turn it up but if you do not release that pressure, the meter will not go down when you turn the adjustment as the gas is still trapped.
If there is something not letting the gas pass, it might give the weird result you report?
I know the effect you're talking about where it takes a while for the pressure to leave the regulator after turning it down, but that's not whats happening. I'm unable to turn the pressure down. When I turn it down, the pressure goes up, like there is a hole in a diaphragm that I'm exposing when I turn the knob or something.
 

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Even if you find the problem then find the parts.. it may still not be cost effective to repair it.
I've got a large 2 stage Victor that need a hp needle and seat and the $30 part makes it, to me, questionable.

There are places that rebuild regulators for a fair price but w/ a single stage.. replacement is
probably a better option..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Even if you find the problem then find the parts.. it may still not be cost effective to repair it.
I've got a large 2 stage Victor that need a hp needle and seat and the $30 part makes it, to me, questionable.

There are places that rebuild regulators for a fair price but w/ a single stage.. replacement is
probably a better option..
I dunno. I'd be ok with $30. All the single stages I've seen while looking for used ones here and other aquatic forums are like $100+

If I go dual stage (which I'd like to do but shy from the cost) I'm looking at $180+...
 

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I dunno. I'd be ok with $30. All the single stages I've seen while looking for used ones here and other aquatic forums are like $100+

If I go dual stage (which I'd like to do but shy from the cost) I'm looking at $180+...
No you aren't you can reuse everything you have (CGA-320 connector, Needle valve, solenoid).

Just take them off your current regulator and put them on a new one.

I just got a new Cornelius 857A (single stage) for $37 shipped and a used Air Products E12 dual stage for $55 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Even if you find the problem then find the parts.. it may still not be cost effective to repair it.
I've got a large 2 stage Victor that need a hp needle and seat and the $30 part makes it, to me, questionable.

There are places that rebuild regulators for a fair price but w/ a single stage.. replacement is
probably a better option..
No you aren't you can reuse everything you have (CGA-320 connector, Needle valve, solenoid).

Just take them off your current regulator and put them on a new one.

I just got a new Cornelius 857A (single stage) for $37 shipped and a used Air Products E12 dual stage for $55 shipped.

Good thinking! I didn't consider that I could buy some without the gauges or anything. That opens up some cheaper alternatives. I'll look for just regulator bodies then. Thanks!
 

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Here's one for ya

This is a dual stage nickel coated brass Airgas regulator from evilbay
for $63.45 with shipping included

#A618 (1) Used Airgas Max Regulated PSIG 250 Max psi 3000 Y12-244F
 

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Did you mean to share a link? If it won't let you, just pm it to me. thanks a lot!
If the link doesn't work, copy and paste this title below. It’s a $44.99 dual stage regulator.


Linde Union Carbide Pressure Gas Regulator UPE 3 25 540 3C

[Ebay Link Removed] Union Carbide Pressure Gas Regulator UPE 3 25 540 3c | eBay[/url]

Regulator Compressed Gas CONCOA 100 Series #10975121L Brass 4000/200 psi

[Ebay Link Removed] Compressed Gas Concoa 100 Series 10975121L Brass 4000 200 PSI | eBay[/url]

Airgas Two-Stage, High-Purity, Brass Pressure Regulator -- Y12-244B -- CGA-580
This one needs a 0-60 PSIG gauge
and a 0-4000 PSIG gauge

[Ebay Link Removed] Two Stage High Purity Brass Pressure Regulator Y12 244B CGA 580 | eBay[/url]

$16.48 new 0-60 psig gauge
Wika Commercial Gauge 2.5" 60-PSI 1/4"-NPT 8990578 (NEW) (12D2)
[Ebay Link Removed] Commercial Gauge 2 5" 60 PSI 1 4" NPT 8990578 New 12D2 | eBay[/url]

$25.00 new 0-4000 psig gauge
[Ebay Link Removed] 8610975 Type 111 11 2 5" Gauge 0 4000PSI New in A Box | eBay[/url]

There's probably cheaper gauges, but these are new. When looking, don't type dual stage or two stage cause sellers probably don't know the difference half the time. Search for "brand + regulator." Some nice brands are: Airgas, prostar, Praxair, victor, harris, tescom, aptech, linde, air products.
 
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