Setting up my shrimp tank in its entirety on Monday. Tank is a 20g long style. It will contain Aqua Soil Amazonia New, Power Sand Special S, granite rocks, an HC carpet, fissidens fontanus, java moss and a few oak twigs. Equipment will be an Eheim 2215 (carbon pad at first and 2 100mL packs of Purigen, then removing the carbon pad after a month or so...using lily pipes with this), Hydor 200W ETH, paintball CO2 injection via ceramic glass diffuser and a 2x24W 24" T5-HO light. I will be keeping Fire Red Cherry Shrimp for now unless I decide to add a few nanofish. My tap water is pretty much harmless....pH around 7-7.4, dunno the hardness...I should probably test that. It's well water. I will be dosing EI.
Questions I have:
1. The temperature in my house is generally 80 at any given time since my father is extremely cold natured from multiple back operations (mm...metal). My fish are doing fine in my 20g tall with the heater set on 78 for when I run my window AC unit. Are the shrimp and shrimplets if they breed going to be fine in the long run at these slightly higher temps, or should I set their heater lower and let it get colder during the night?
2. The Eheim 2215 with Purigen should be plenty of filtration for a shrimp tank. I'm aware that lily pipes spread out the flow so it's not as strong in most places. Should I even use the lily pipes, or should I use the default spray bar and intake and cut them to the height and width of the tank and spray from end-to-end?
3. Another filtration question. The Eheim 2215 should also be sufficient biological filtration for a tank this size and a small bio load of shrimps, right? I will also have a sponge prefilter on the intake to keep the shrimps from getting sucked up into the filter.
4. I've read that Cherries are pretty tolerant of their environment. Are there any specific parameters that I need to pay special attention to to make sure they're comfortable?
5. Do I need to feed them any sort of special supplements, or will they be fine grazing the HC and their molts?
6. While the tank is cycling, I was planning to keep the shrimp out of the tank in a tupperware container with a patch of fissidens to avoid the shock of the aqua soil leaching ammonia and having the surplus ammonia to fuel the bio filter. Will they be fine for a couple of weeks as long as I change their water daily?
7. Continuing from number 6, if there's only plant life in the tank is it necessary to perform water changes while the tank is cycling, or does it help the bio filter more to do water changes?
Thanks a ton folks. I really want to do this tank big and do it right...and I'd like all the help I can get.
Questions I have:
1. The temperature in my house is generally 80 at any given time since my father is extremely cold natured from multiple back operations (mm...metal). My fish are doing fine in my 20g tall with the heater set on 78 for when I run my window AC unit. Are the shrimp and shrimplets if they breed going to be fine in the long run at these slightly higher temps, or should I set their heater lower and let it get colder during the night?
2. The Eheim 2215 with Purigen should be plenty of filtration for a shrimp tank. I'm aware that lily pipes spread out the flow so it's not as strong in most places. Should I even use the lily pipes, or should I use the default spray bar and intake and cut them to the height and width of the tank and spray from end-to-end?
3. Another filtration question. The Eheim 2215 should also be sufficient biological filtration for a tank this size and a small bio load of shrimps, right? I will also have a sponge prefilter on the intake to keep the shrimps from getting sucked up into the filter.
4. I've read that Cherries are pretty tolerant of their environment. Are there any specific parameters that I need to pay special attention to to make sure they're comfortable?
5. Do I need to feed them any sort of special supplements, or will they be fine grazing the HC and their molts?
6. While the tank is cycling, I was planning to keep the shrimp out of the tank in a tupperware container with a patch of fissidens to avoid the shock of the aqua soil leaching ammonia and having the surplus ammonia to fuel the bio filter. Will they be fine for a couple of weeks as long as I change their water daily?
7. Continuing from number 6, if there's only plant life in the tank is it necessary to perform water changes while the tank is cycling, or does it help the bio filter more to do water changes?
Thanks a ton folks. I really want to do this tank big and do it right...and I'd like all the help I can get.