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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first time keeping cherry shrimp. I do have wood and African fan Shrimp in my main tank and have never had an issue. Since buying them last week I've lost over half. The only thing I have noticed is a yellow ring around a couple of shrimp. Ammonia nitrite 0 nitrate 20 kh 8 GH 12 tds 300. The only thing I can think I did wrong was not fully acclimate them properly as I was told I can just float the bag by the shop. Any advice would be great, are my current levels ok for these shrimp and how long after large water changes and stress should I still expect deaths? Thanks all.
 

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The shop likely sold you adults... so that's number 1 issue.

The adults might be imports... so that could be number 2 issue.


Adults don't acclimate as well as juvies do, especially if they are imports and the stress of changing water parameters could cause further issues... not properly acclimating COULD be a 3rd issue...


After that, could be diet? I would chalk it up to age/stress first before diet since you haven't had them long.... There are other possibilities, unfortunately. If the tank they are in was ever treated with meds and there's any chance that there's any residue left over from it? Or maybe something in the tank is causing harm? Such as a heater, decoration or a plant?


The GH and KH are "okay", as people have raised shrimp in both higher as well as lower parameters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you atleast I know my water is ok, they do look fully grown it's a lesson learnt I suppose. I will have to do some more research with acclimatising them to the tank prior. I did have a couple of mollies in the tank with a couple of wood shrimp prior to these so I presume everything in the tank is fine. I'm feeding a couple pellets each day that the shop sold me food wise.
 

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If you don't have very many shrimp in the tank (50-ish or less) and the tank IS cycled, then you could feed once or twice a week, if that. Heck, even once a month may be fine! If at all! (depending on your tank)

They also do best on an algae/vegetable based diet... many "algae pellets" or wafers are actually algae infused, not algae based... so something else to consider.
 

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75g, 33L, 2g and play tanks
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So i didn't know that about the adults being harder to acclimate. But I do know shrimp are easier to kill when acclimating because they respond more acutely to water changes. I recently got some RCS as well. I floated the bag as well. Usually I will float the bag for 15-20 minutes then every 15 or so add a little tank water(the heartier the creature the more tank water I put in each time) until it is over 50% tank water then dump half that mixed water and do it one ore two more times. The whole process usually takes me 1.5 hours. With the shrimp I did the same just smaller portions of water and did this for about 3 hours or more. (when I say every 15 minutes, it's more like every 10-25 minutes depending on what I am doing at the house.) I didn't loose any. Though half were actually babies and because they were babies they gave me 2x as many for the second half of the stock I bought. Though after learning the babies are heartier they probably should have charged me double. hahaha.... anyway, that's my 2 cents.
 

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It sounds like a case of osmotic shock.

While you can keep Neos in moderately hard water, you have to slowly get them used to it. A couple hours of floating is not enough.

Those rings you see are shrimp failing to shed their shells in response to the new water conditions. I drip acclimate for close to 6 hours before I introduce any shrimp, and they usually molt the day they enter the tank.
 

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Everyone has their own method, and of course drop is the best for acclamation. If that is NOT possible, I drop a fresh Purigen packet into direct water flow about 15 minutes prior to intriducing new tank mates. This removes impurities and gives shrimp in my tank the best chance for survival. I have used this method in 2,5,6, and 20 gallon long tanks very successfully.
 

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Yeah, TDS is probably one of the most important variables to consider. That and the starting parameter of your LFS water. If you bought shrimp from a store with TDS 0-50 pH 6.8 kH 0-2 gH 2-4 and tried to put them in TDS 250 pH 7.5 kH 4 gH 8 without acclimating them, I'd be surprised if any survived.

Acclimation is for all parameters, temperature is just one of them. The point of acclimating our livestock is to attempt to regulate their homeostasis and have them transition comfortably.
 
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