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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
who walks that line? i transitioned from a high tech tank to a medium light no co2 tank. most of the plants are high light plants, hc, tropica, different rotalas, red ludwigia... seeing lots of lower leaf melts. some bba creeping in. i pulled out and set up the co2 equipment. dosed metricide to kill the bba. there are no shrimp (except for a hitch hiker that i see from time to time) in the tank yet, as its still cycling. this will be a crs tank once cycled. who walks that fine line between co2 and shrimp tank. i know most ppl avoid it but if it can be done whats your secret?
 

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Well I can't speak from experience yet....planning on doing a crs tank though. With that being said i can assure you that I've gotten all my information from this forum which i believe is just about the best source i can site. A good thing to do especially with fauna that are sensitive to ph fluctuation is make sure that you keep the co2 24/7. If you have it come on and off with lights the ph swings can stress out and make the shrimp vulnerable to disease. It could even kill them if drastic enough. Since you going from high to medium tech and not vice versa you can lower the bps. This will compensate for the 24/7 co2 when it comes to refilling co2. It's always handy to have a spare co2 tank ready for when it runs out to once again avoid those fluctuations.


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I have my CO2 running 24/7 in my planted Taiwan tank, with
BKK, WR, BB, CWB and Snows.

I pulled my berried CWB, BKK and BB females out to hatch their babies in my breeder box attached to this tank.

I now have 10+ babies some are 4 weeks old already, and the CO2 doesn't seem to be doing any of them any harm.

I have a 40# cannister that's running 3 tanks off it. Its on very low in the Taiwan tank, and my lights I turn on at 8am and off at 8pm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help. Co2 wasn't my plan for this tank. 24/7 is not really an option either. Im gonna try 8 hours of co2 at a very small amount. I've still got a couple weeks to dial in the tank before my crs move in


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Before you add your livestock you can use co2 to slowly acclimate you plants to lower co2 conditions by gradually decreasing the ppm that you put in. Once you get to the point that you're no longer using co2 you should make sure conditions are stable before adding shrimp.
 

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You're better off going 24/7 with airstone/surface agitation going to help offgas it a bit and keep the pH stable instead of on and off, you're going to create bigger pH swings everyday.
 

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i too am flirting with the co2 and shrimp disaster.

I have 20ish amano in a tank with run high co2 in. It comes on 45 minutes before the light come on and shuts off 30 minutes prior to lights out. My drop checker is a PALE green after a few hours.

No issues thus far.
 

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IME it's fine as long as it is low enough to not stop breeding at all (neos and cards). 24/7 vs timed makes no difference. Water temperature and surface agitation does. (And quality equipment)

Play with the light first to see how minimum you can provide it. It's better to compromise a bit of growth rate rather than a whole colony.

I wouldn't use DIY systems tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My co2 is pretty stable right now. It's running off dual needle valves. 2 tanks side by side. My lights are on 8 hours, 18watt cfl over a 7.5 gallon cube. I put in a ac30 so there's a good amount of flow and surface agitation. My 4dkh solution is contaminated so my drop checker is not reliable. Compared to my old setup, I'm running a lower amount of co2 for sure. Maybe ill try with a couple shrimp and see how they do in there


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My co2 is pretty stable right now. It's running off dual needle valves. 2 tanks side by side. My lights are on 8 hours, 18watt cfl over a 7.5 gallon cube. I put in a ac30 so there's a good amount of flow and surface agitation. My 4dkh solution is contaminated so my drop checker is not reliable. Compared to my old setup, I'm running a lower amount of co2 for sure. Maybe ill try with a couple shrimp and see how they do in there


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Contaminated?
 
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