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Discussion Starter #1
I really need your input on this guys, I have 55gal tank with some plants, crypts, vails, nubias, glosso. As for the fishes I have 2 angels and about 40 tetras, 10 ramshorn snails, and 10 mts. The PH is about 7.0(20lb CO2 tank with DIY Rex Grigg reactor) and I am trying to get it down to 6.8. The other parameter I don't know. But my problem is that I have a bit a algae problem, abit on the plants and mostly on the glass (looks green). Today I purchase a bottle of exel and a

Filstar Nitra-zorb. Its direct fitment into my rena xp2.
according to the box it removes
1: ammonia
2: nitrite
3: nitrate
will this help with the algae problem?
will it remove the nitrite or nitrate needed for healthy plants

Should I use the Filstar Nitra-zorb?
thanks for looking everyone.
 

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That stuff wont do anything for your algae problem. Most have algae problems because of too much light and not enough Co2.

Tell us more about your setup, photo period etc...
 

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I agree light and food will be your main issues the algae is out competing your current plant stock so I'd recommend shortening your photo period to eight hours and adding ferts to supplement your C02 regiment.

Ether company liquid ferts like Pfertz.com or the Seachem line or if your willing to do a bit of work on your own dry ferts will cost allot less. The best I've found is greenleafaquariums.com and aquariumfertilizer.com where you can buy the dry chemicals.

- Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #4
my set up is a 55g with 80lbs of eco-complete, light its a JBJ 48" with 4x55w power compact bulbs. 2 are 10k day light and the other 2 are actinic which I rarely turn on. I keep the lights on for about 9-10 hours a day. If I were to use Seachem line, what are the products that I need and how much to use? because I have lots of Neons and several cardinals.
 

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I have half the amount of light over the same tank and still have some algae... even with pressurized CO2 and lots of ferts... So I'd suggest cutting the light for now...

Never mind... You have 2 actinic they don't count... we have the same lights ;)

I just run the lights for 8 hours though...
 

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The best thing to do right now is increase the CO2 bubble rate. You say you are shooting for a pH of 6.8, but are at 7.0. Unless your KH is very high you are unlikely to have nearly enough CO2 in the water. Do you have a drop checker? That would be good, because it gives you a good way to tell if you are getting close to the optimum amount of CO2 in the water. Once you realize what the bubble rate looks like when you are close to the optimum amount, you can watch the plants for pearling a couple of hours after the lights come on, which indicates good CO2, and watch the fish to see if they start clustering at the water surface, usually in a corner, which indicates you have too much CO2. With the amount of light you have you do need good CO2 to avoid lots of algae problems. (Along with very good, consistent tank maintenance, good pruning, water changes, etc.)
 
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