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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am into aesthetics and Id like to set up the mechanicals in a way that they function properly as well as look clean and organized.

I am currently running a Fluval 407 with a fluval spray bar. I have a fluval skimmer to install still but I'm wondering if there is a better one. I want to replace the hoses with something that looks better. I want to switch from a Diffuser to a Reactor. I have one but it feels cheap and brittle. I want to replace my regulator with something of quality with dual gauges. I'm not sure the difference between single stage or dual stage though. I would love to run an inline heater but not necessary at this point.

What equipment do you suggest? I read that their aren't any quality reactors and I can possibly build my own. Is this true?

I want everything to be set up nice and clean. Any tips on hardware or any tips of the trade to achieve this?

I have a few ideas but Id like to see some inspiration and I am excited to hear what your suggestions are. Thank you!
 

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Hi Tegra,

There is something very appealing to a well thought out setup that has been designed to look as good as the aquarium itself. CO2 ART does not have a reactor but we do have inline diffusers that could attach directly onto the outlet pipe of your external filter once you replace the hoses with something smooth. Our inline diffusers fit tubing of 12/16mm or 16/22mm with the latter being suitable for your filter.

Both of our regulators are 'dual stage' which offers a secondary safety system in which prevents any co2 from rushing into your system at high pressure. When dealing with livestock in your aquarium, it is reassuring to know your regulator has dual-stage safety. Both our regulators give complete control over the co2 supply via needle valves, bubble counters and build in check valves. You can see both our regulators here along with all our accessories, including a selection of coloured CO2 resistant tubing for added aesthetics.

Shipping is available worldwide and both of our regulators come with 24/7 support, 5 years warranty and free shipping on orders over $70.

If you decide to go with us or have any questions, don't hesitate to get in touch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Tegra,

There is something very appealing to a well thought out setup that has been designed to look as good as the aquarium itself. CO2 ART does not have a reactor but we do have inline diffusers that could attach directly onto the outlet pipe of your external filter once you replace the hoses with something smooth. Our inline diffusers fit tubing of 12/16mm or 16/22mm with the latter being suitable for your filter.

Both of our regulators are 'dual stage' which offers a secondary safety system in which prevents any co2 from rushing into your system at high pressure. When dealing with livestock in your aquarium, it is reassuring to know your regulator has dual-stage safety. Both our regulators give complete control over the co2 supply via needle valves, bubble counters and build in check valves. You can see both our regulators here along with all our accessories, including a selection of coloured CO2 resistant tubing for added aesthetics.

Shipping is available worldwide and both of our regulators come with 24/7 support, 5 years warranty and free shipping on orders over $70.

If you decide to go with us or have any questions, don't hesitate to get in touch.
Thank you for all of your information!
 

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16g rimless cherry shrimp, 20g cube dwarf cichlid, 40g breeder nano community.
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To reduce clutter and make things as simple as possible I got an all-in-one tank for my living room. Everything is hidden in the back behind dark glass. In the basement on my bigger tank I switched to an Oase Biomaster canister with the heater inside. I'm using the CO2Art regulators on both tanks. The basement tank has the CO2Art inline defuser as well. The only equipment in the tank are glass pipes and a CO2 checker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To reduce clutter and make things as simple as possible I got an all-in-one tank for my living room. Everything is hidden in the back behind dark glass. In the basement on my bigger tank I switched to an Oase Biomaster canister with the heater inside. I'm using the CO2Art regulators on both tanks. The basement tank has the CO2Art inline defuser as well. The only equipment in the tank are glass pipes and a CO2 checker.
How do you like the inline diffuser? I was hoping to get rid of the mist...
 

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16g rimless cherry shrimp, 20g cube dwarf cichlid, 40g breeder nano community.
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How do you like the inline diffuser? I was hoping to get rid of the mist...
I had issues at first and then swapped out pipes for the glass lily pipes and lowered the CO2 to a more medium energy (as to opposed to high energy) and I'm good with it. I still get good growth on my plants, but they aren't high demanding plants either. A reactor would be better than the diffuser, but the one diffuser I tried leaked and I could never get it not to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had issues at first and then swapped out pipes for the glass lily pipes and lowered the CO2 to a more medium energy (as to opposed to high energy) and I'm good with it. I still get good growth on my plants, but they aren't high demanding plants either. A reactor would be better than the diffuser, but the one diffuser I tried leaked and I could never get it not to.
How do you decipher medium energy or high energy? I currently get a 1point drop in PH in my 75g through my in the tank diffuser. I think Im going to try to use the reactor that I bought and add a bi pass. I did watch a video and they siliconed the threads, probably where yours was leaking. So Ill do the same just to avoid that potential issue.
 

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I am into aesthetics and Id like to set up the mechanicals in a way that they function properly as well as look clean and organized.

I am currently running a Fluval 407 with a fluval spray bar. I have a fluval skimmer to install still but I'm wondering if there is a better one. I want to replace the hoses with something that looks better. I want to switch from a Diffuser to a Reactor. I have one but it feels cheap and brittle. I want to replace my regulator with something of quality with dual gauges. I'm not sure the difference between single stage or dual stage though. I would love to run an inline heater but not necessary at this point.

What equipment do you suggest? I read that their aren't any quality reactors and I can possibly build my own. Is this true?

I want everything to be set up nice and clean. Any tips on hardware or any tips of the trade to achieve this?

I have a few ideas but Id like to see some inspiration and I am excited to hear what your suggestions are. Thank you!
I set up my 75 gallon tank so the only equipment in the tank are the two stainless steel lily pipes. The intake pipe has a skimmer built in. For a walkthrough of that you can look at the 120P journal in my signature.

My way of doing it was just one method. There are many ways to achieve this goal. Generally this means you will be running things on the return line.

You can definitely make a reactor. It's pretty easy to do, but you can also buy one for probably about double the money. Nicolg is the only company I know of that makes reactors that aren't extremely undersized (probably because they are essentially identical to the ones you can build).
 

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16g rimless cherry shrimp, 20g cube dwarf cichlid, 40g breeder nano community.
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How do you decipher medium energy or high energy?
I'm currently using a drop checker and I keep it a medium green as opposed to the lime green that would indicate high CO2 content. I've also adjusted my lights and ferts accordingly. George Farmer talks about medium and high energy as opposed to low and high tech in a few of his videos.

That said I have a Felix Smart Controller coming tomorrow. I plan on putting it on the all-in-one tank in my living room. I just did a water test at lunch today and my water pH is around 6.7 - 6.8 an hour after the CO2 comes on. In theory I should be able to use the Seneye monitor to better control the CO2 and dial things in more closely over time. We'll see how that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm currently using a drop checker and I keep it a medium green as opposed to the lime green that would indicate high CO2 content. I've also adjusted my lights and ferts accordingly. George Farmer talks about medium and high energy as opposed to low and high tech in a few of his videos.

That said I have a Felix Smart Controller coming tomorrow. I plan on putting it on the all-in-one tank in my living room. I just did a water test at lunch today and my water pH is around 6.7 - 6.8 an hour after the CO2 comes on. In theory I should be able to use the Seneye monitor to better control the CO2 and dial things in more closely over time. We'll see how that works.
What is your base point? I measure a 1 point drop from degassed water and my drop checkers are lime green verging on yellow. With that being said, I'm not sure how to adjust light and dosing accordingly.

I set up my 75 gallon tank so the only equipment in the tank are the two stainless steel lily pipes. The intake pipe has a skimmer built in. For a walkthrough of that you can look at the 120P journal in my signature.

My way of doing it was just one method. There are many ways to achieve this goal. Generally this means you will be running things on the return line.

You can definitely make a reactor. It's pretty easy to do, but you can also buy one for probably about double the money. Nicolg is the only company I know of that makes reactors that aren't extremely undersized (probably because they are essentially identical to the ones you can build).
I just skimmed through your build. Very nice! Are you happy with your reactor? I'm debating on building my own that has a larger volume and larger ports to eliminate the flow restriction that mine will have. Im not sure if its necessary. I have some time to go before I get to that level. There is so much that I don't know or understand but I am excited about it!
 

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What is your base point? I measure a 1 point drop from degassed water and my drop checkers are lime green verging on yellow. With that being said, I'm not sure how to adjust light and dosing accordingly.
Right now blue on the drop checker. One of the reasons I don't want to go full CO2 and hoping I can get good pH readings with the smart controller. I nearly gassed all my fish at the beginning of the AIO setup.

I'm using a Fluval 3.0 light for 9 hours and I raise/lower intensity by 10% every two weeks according to algae growth until I have it dialed in. Recommendations on ferts is low tech once a week and high tech as much as every day. I seem to do best at twice a week (nilocg thrive+) with a good 50% water change every weekend. Too much and I again I get algae - too little and the plants starve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Right now blue on the drop checker. One of the reasons I don't want to go full CO2 and hoping I can get good pH readings with the smart controller. I nearly gassed all my fish at the beginning of the AIO setup.

I'm using a Fluval 3.0 light for 9 hours and I raise/lower intensity by 10% every two weeks according to algae growth until I have it dialed in. Recommendations on ferts is low tech once a week and high tech as much as every day. I seem to do best at twice a week (nilocg thrive+) with a good 50% water change every weekend. Too much and I again I get algae - too little and the plants starve.
We have the same fertilizer and water change schedule. Unfertilized Wednesday and Sunday, 50% water change on the weekend. I have a little hair allergy growth. Not too concerning but Id rather not have it. My light isn't great. I run it for 7 hours but can't control the intensity. So my CO2 turns on 1 hour before the light does and it shirts off one hour before the light does. My bubbler turns on when the lights go on.

My tank overall is doing ok. I'd like to see more growth out of the plants though. Fish are seemingly healthy.

I suppose I could turn the lights off at 6 hours and try to slow the algae growth, but aren't there other factors for algae too?
 

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I just skimmed through your build. Very nice! Are you happy with your reactor? I'm debating on building my own that has a larger volume and larger ports to eliminate the flow restriction that mine will have. Im not sure if its necessary. I have some time to go before I get to that level. There is so much that I don't know or understand but I am excited about it!
I built my reactor, thought it looks a lot like the nicolg reactors. I think this was my 7th or 8th reactor? The first few were really weird designs when I was experimenting. I eventually learned that dissolving co2 into water is pretty easy and made the reactor the simplified version you see in my build.

I am now very happy with the reactor. Absolutely silent and completely efficient. I don't push it hard though, only 1 bubble a second on my 75 gallon tank. This gives me great growth with plants without putting the fish in danger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I built my reactor, thought it looks a lot like the nicolg reactors. I think this was my 7th or 8th reactor? The first few were really weird designs when I was experimenting. I eventually learned that dissolving co2 into water is pretty easy and made the reactor the simplified version you see in my build.

I am now very happy with the reactor. Absolutely silent and completely efficient. I don't push it hard though, only 1 bubble a second on my 75 gallon tank. This gives me great growth with plants without putting the fish in danger.
One bubble per second was hardly any CO2 saturation in my 75g. Given it was through a diffuser. My drop checkers didn't change color at all at 1 bubble per second.
 

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One bubble per second was hardly any CO2 saturation in my 75g. Given it was through a diffuser. My drop checkers didn't change color at all at 1 bubble per second.
Well 1) A diffuser is the worst way to get co2 into an aquarium, a reactor on the other hand is much more efficient, and 2) I am not trying to saturate the water to say 30ppm or near the limit of fish survival. Just trying to get enough co2 into the water to help the plants grow and to grow the more difficult plants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well 1) A diffuser is the worst way to get co2 into an aquarium, a reactor on the other hand is much more efficient, and 2) I am not trying to saturate the water to say 30ppm or near the limit of fish survival. Just trying to get enough co2 into the water to help the plants grow and to grow the more difficult plants.
I hear you. What is your pH drop at Saturation? Im just trying to figure out where my issues lie. Also,.how big is your bubble counter?

Hi Tegra,

There is something very appealing to a well thought out setup that has been designed to look as good as the aquarium itself. CO2 ART does not have a reactor but we do have inline diffusers that could attach directly onto the outlet pipe of your external filter once you replace the hoses with something smooth. Our inline diffusers fit tubing of 12/16mm or 16/22mm with the latter being suitable for your filter.

Both of our regulators are 'dual stage' which offers a secondary safety system in which prevents any co2 from rushing into your system at high pressure. When dealing with livestock in your aquarium, it is reassuring to know your regulator has dual-stage safety. Both our regulators give complete control over the co2 supply via needle valves, bubble counters and build in check valves. You can see both our regulators here along with all our accessories, including a selection of coloured CO2 resistant tubing for added aesthetics.

Shipping is available worldwide and both of our regulators come with 24/7 support, 5 years warranty and free shipping on orders over $70.

If you decide to go with us or have any questions, don't hesitate to get in touch.
I private messaged you.
 
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