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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been trying to get my 75 gallon tank going.. But everything looks like crap!! My downoi seems to be doing OK, my dhg isn't doing anything... my tom Barr s repens are looking like crap..wisteria is growing slowly.. cardinalis is melting..ludwgia sp red is in limbo..bacomba sp japan died, rotala is best thing growing...green dust algae is still winning..this Is killing me..pressurized co2... osmocote tabs thru out tank, ei ferts,7 hrs of light and co2 drop checker showing perfect co2. What could be the problem???



 

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What is your light (brand and kelvin if you know it) and how high is it from substrate? How many root tabs do you have in? there is such thing as "too much", they should be roughly 1 per 3 square inches, replaced about every 6-9 months I believe.
Whats your water temp, and all params including: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, gh, pH?
How long have the dhg and other plants been in? Few weeks... few months?
 

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Thanks aqua..lighting is a catalina 3x54watt t5 ho..2 6500k and a 54 watt plant light..height is 3 inches above 2.5-3 inches of sand..osmote is prob 5-6 inches apart..,most plants like dhg and repens are only a few weeks old.

Water temp is 76-78.. I'll post water parameters tomorrow.. I know I have high pH water..high no3
 

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Same light fixture I have on my planted 75. I run my lights for 9 hours per day. Are you using tap water and have you tested it?

You also mention you use EI Dosing, however your tank doesn't appear to have and abundance of lush growth yet (don't take that the wrong way), therefore it is possible you are adding too many nutrients to the water. EI Dosing fert amounts should be reduced in lightly or newly planted tanks. Might want to reduce the amount of ferts by 1/3-1/2 until your plants root more and start showing more signs of growth. I would also increase lighting to 8-8.5 hours per day to give your plants a longer photo period. You may also want to consider dosing Seachem Excel for the short term until your plants perk up. Excel will help keep any algae under control and also provide an additional carbon source for your plants. Don't forget your weekly 50% water change on day seven of the EI Dosing schedule.

And yes, as the post above states, be patient and give your new plants time to get established. A lush aquarium does not happen overnight. :)

Good luck.
 

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In my experience, dwarf hairgrass is a PITA to get going, especially if planted in clumps like you have. It may die off a little, but it should start sending out runners sometime in the near future.
It's not uncommon to have some sort of melting shortly after getting new plants if your water conditions are different than the tank from which you got them. I have had some stemmed plants melt / recede by a fair bit before they got acclimated to my tank and started growing nicely again. I actually have some ludwigia sp. red in my tank right now that is still trying to adjust (the top couple inches turned yellowish-white for whatever reason, so I trimmed that off).
Just for curiosity's sake, what is your substrate? You mentioned sand, but from your picture it looks like it is mixed with something else.

dru is on to something: give it some time. Tom grows excellent plants and gives even better advice, so try shooting him a PM to see if he does anything special with his repens.
 

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That is very odd. Everything seems right. I'd say patience and may be increase the photo period a little bit. DHG isnt the fastest of growers. But having said that, I have basically the same thing in my 10 gal, except for lighting (I have cheap desklamp fixtures) and 2.5 weeks in, they are 3 inches tall and producing lots of runners. Also what I have experienced is that DHG grows very fast in areas of high water flow. May be you don't have much flow in your tank?
 

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From what I see,, look's to be One HOB filter (emperor 400?) and what look's to be CO2 rising to the surface from diffuser? and being quickly outgassed.
With HOB filter(s) you will need to keep water level right to the brim to prevent more CO2 outgassing due to surface agitation or...inject more CO2 to try and overcome this.
Either another HOB filter on otherside,or canister to help disperse CO2 more evenly throughout the tank rather than concentrated flow in one area.
Could use powerhead or wavemaker or two also,for same purpose.
Would not increase lighting period , nor limit fertz, but would instead give the plant's time while correcting possibly poor distribution of CO2 and or not enough.
Dialing up CO2 SLOWLY,, while watching fishes for any sign's of stress and then backing off a bit when they appear stressed is in my view sound practice.(hard to know exactly how much CO2 is actually present)
Should be there to watch the fish and do it slow,, rather than cranking up CO2 on way out the door for work/play.
My two cent's.
 

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Can you post close up photos of the plants that aren't doing well? Need to see the damage if any to advise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
wow! Thanks everyone! Ive been slowly adding plants over the past few weeks, but the s. repens were new adds..maybe they are just adapting to my tank. I do have the HOB filter but also have a canister filter. The co2 seems to be doing ok I think, It has a power head in tank to help distribute it, though it is still looking like a pop bottle in there. The tank has alot of water movement, I was actually worried it was too much. I am just using tap water, and it has high PH, tank test high for no3, so I have actually cut my ei dosing down in that area..Besides the green dust algae on my anubias, and hard scape, I don't really have any other algae problem. But these plants just aren't growing fast..I'm new to this, maybe I just expected too much too soon :) Patience probably is the best thing, I'm just worried that im killing all these plants! Downoi is doing ok, rotala is happy, have a few java ferns that still look ok. Ludwigia sp. red looks to growing nicely. Im mainly concerned w these repens..I really want them to do well, and the DHG also, but I cant even keep it planted long enough to grow lol..everytime its starts to grow, I gotta jab it down in the sand after I come home and its floating...stupid tiger barbs...I wish id decided to do this pre-fish...Ive tried taking better shots of my poor repens, but they look fine on camera..it doesn't pick up the horribleness of them. I also was dosing excel daily...but honestly never saw any difference in the tank w or wo it..I havent dosed it in about a week. And I always do my water changes! Also my substrate it pool sand, mixed w a some Eco complete they had on sale at the lfs..I was trying to just give it a little different look..Looked great when it was all new :)
 

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Nice tank. Everyone has opinions... So here's mine.

After you make the tank how u like it, don't pay attention to it. Jus keep up wth ferts and feeding... The less you look at it the happier your plants feel to root down.... It's like having a friend come over to yor house for the first time and meeting your parents... Lol they'll adapt over time. Till then they will get nervous now and den (like how plants melt) but they always come back! Haha

Learned this from a friend. So I'm sharing it with a fellow forum member.

Just don't over do it. Make it how u like it maintain it but don't stress it.
 

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Let's slow down now. First, both DHG and S Repens take ages to become used to in your tank water parameters. I say about 3 weeks. :) You planted your DHG a bit too big. Try to have no more than 10 blades of grass per clump.

Read this thread carefully to properly determine if you have more than 30ppm of CO2 and don't rely on the drop checker. http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/12022-CO2-pH-KH-table


You say you are dosing EI? Can you run some numbers through the fert calculator here? http://rota.la/

Ideally, you want about 10 to 20 ppm of KNO3. 2 to 5ppm of phosphate. With the potassium, both dosing of KNO3 and Potassium phosphate should take care of that. For the trace, you don't need to dose a lot. I say use your iron concentration as a guide. You should dose no more than .5ppm of iron. Keep your GH around 2 to 3 degree.

GDA and GSA are the result of too much light and low in phosphate level. Slow growing plants are more suspectable to them.

Carpeting plants tend to better with sufficient water current passing through them.

Once you get the EI dosing down and getting a good handle with the CO2 level (this may take a week or two to dial in), the rest is just patience
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks everybody...A little update.. I removed the hair grass...Ill try that again in a different tank. The repens look to be coming around. One thing that is driving me crazy is the green algae..This stuff is growing as fast as I want the plants too! So green on the wood, that it looks neon...Ive turned off one of the lights in the tank, turned the co2 up a little, and backed the ei dose down a little..I wish this tank looked as good as it does after water change. I can literally see new growth the day after a water change.. On the plus side, my java ferns have little growths sprouting out all over them!
 

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All of this wold be much better understood if pictures went/w the words. In the first picture I see some, but little algae and in the second I see jus a slight bit of it on the wood but a good bit on the rocks. How old are those pictures ?
Can we possibly get close ups of this algae both on the wood and rock ?
But even without a close up I will say there is way too much light for that much plant mass. On those Catalina's, can't you run them/w one bulb removed ?
Excel doesn't work on all kinds of algae. Java Fern and Anubias are so slow growing that they can't help but get algae on the older leaves in a high light tank unless shaded by other plants. Wisteria must have Potassium and you can reduce the NO3
by reducing the KNO3 but you need to keep the K in there so what you took out
of the KNO3 add that same amount of K2SO4 in place of it.
Actually you are on the line/w PAR between med/high light. Great for a tank that looks full of plants like those Dutch style tanks. But till your tank fills out with more plant growth I would either take out one bulb or raise the fixture till there is 24" between the bulbs and sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, the algae got a little outta control in a big hurry...I actually did turn off one of the lights in the fixture, and didnt ei dose all last week. The algae did not like this and finally starting dying off..My mosses turned a nice green, and there was noticeable growth in the tank. I started dosing again today, but cut the dosage in half until I can get more plants. Ive been removing some plants like the big Anubias, because I feel they are going to take up too much space. Ive def got to get some more stems growing in the tank, but have not had time to get them. I need about 50 more crowns of Downoi to finish off the foreground. Heres a few pics from tonight, dont mind the glass..I didnt clean it last night..


My Wisteria is growing along the bottom? whats w that?



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update. The tank has really started to take off...im still only lightly dosing the tank, and still doing co2. Also only running the plant light on my fixture.
 

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Off topic... but, do those tiger barbs get along with the other fishes in your tank? They look so nice but I have heard they can get very aggressive.
 
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