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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have this test kit and need to know some questions cuz once again i'm having algae probs.

the phospate color chart, used to match the color of the water sample to determine the amount of phospate in the sample, has a range of 0.0 to 3.0 - is this number range used to determine ppm or mg/L????????

also, i just tested my water supply, reference kit, and tank (which really wouldn't have matter cuz i just did my big weekly water change), all of the results were somewhere between .8 and 1.0.
Does this give any clue why the BG algae is hitting me?
 

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ppm and mg/L are the same for our purposes (1L = 1000g for water) - so yes to both.

0.8 to 1.0 ppm phosphate should not cause any problems if all the other nutrients are adequate.

Kevin
 

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I use this kit too. It's a little sensitive.

I usually do two tests of the same water each time that I test it. If they're different colors, I'll do three tests to check it out further.

Blue green algae can be caused by poor water movement.
 

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BGA is caused by low NO3 and low water movement....not PO4
IMO if you don't have a LaMotte PO4 kit, you will not have any idea what it is because all of the other home tests are garbage...
 

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so nitrates being too low are my problem, i have seachem nitrogen, which i don't really use, should i use it more?

if you are correct about my nitrates being too low, maybe it's because I do 75 pct water changes, do i need to tone down on water changes??
 

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To get a better idea about your water parameters; try this Smart2 Colorimeter. You'll be tossing all your other test kits. It eliminates human error from color interpretation. LaMotte SMART Colorimeter Here's the reagents: Aluminum, Fresh 50
 

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so nitrates being too low are my problem, i have seachem nitrogen, which i don't really use, should i use it more?

if you are correct about my nitrates being too low, maybe it's because I do 75 pct water changes, do i need to tone down on water changes??
I dose NO3 2 times a week, so if you say "i don't really use it" chances are, you are way too low. 75% changes with no NO3....I think we have your problem. I wouldn't focus so much on your PO4 that is for sure.
 

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To get a better idea about your water parameters; try this Smart2 Colorimeter. You'll be tossing all your other test kits. It eliminates human error from color interpretation. LaMotte SMART Colorimeter Here's the reagents: Aluminum, Fresh 50
I love this thing too, but many will not want to spend 800 bucks on something like this. That is why we use Estimative Index for dosing.. :icon_bigg
 

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I love this thing too, but many will not want to spend 800 bucks on something like this. That is why we use Estimative Index for dosing.. :icon_bigg
That's what we use in some of the chemisty, zoology and biology labs at the college here. It is great.

There's some folks not using the EI yet and/or want to get a handle on their tap water and aquarium water parameters. They might not need to know the "exact" amount but a ball park idea is close enough. That takes us back to the EI concept and idea. The EI is a "ball park" method for dosing that works quite well but you do need to get a handle on your incoming water to start using it well.

But, in your other remark, I disagree somewhat:
...IMO if you don't have a LaMotte PO4 kit, you will not have any idea what it is because all of the other home tests are garbage...
Water Testing Kits: Aquaculture & Fish Farming Products - © LaMotte Company That's the Lamotte PO4 kit that you mentioned. It uses a Comparator with Axial Reader. I know that many people have trouble using it.

I see nothing wrong with using Seachem's test kits for phosphate and nitrite/nitrate. They're better than many out there. The do come with a reference solution to check the accuracy. These tests are quick and easy. There's no need for someone to spend mega bucks or even a lot of money on Lamotte's regular test kits just to get an idea where they are. I have some of Lamotte's kits too but, for general usage these Seachem kits are fine IMO.
 

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I like the Seachem phosphate test too. I don't know how accurate it really is, but upping my dose to a bit over 2ppm sure knocked back some GSA, and I used the test to arrive at a starting point. Another thing one can do is to try to get your tap water tested or get a local water bureau report.
 
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