Look at the dosing table Seachem supplies for their products, then dose at least twice what they recommend. That will not cause algae. I don't know what your tank dimensions are, but 4 x T5HO is really a lot of light, probably much more than you should have. Unless you have a $2000 CO2 measuring probe, you can't say you have 24 ppm of CO2 in the water. If that comes from using the KH/pH, ppmCO2 table, it is a meaningless number. You need a drop checker, with 4 dKH distilled water in it, to help you adjust the CO2 right. Right now, you probably have closer to 10 ppm than 30 ppm, and that won't work with high light.
Seachem ferts, amounts, and algae
Hey all
I'm trying to figure out how much of my sechem stuff to dose. I have dry goods on order but it would be dumb not to use what I aleady spent my money on you see.
Anyway, I was dosing minimally, but given my high light and co2 (96 watts of T5HO and 24 ppm co2 it wouldn't be enough. But now with the higher doses I'm getting much more algae, so clearly the plants are not using it.
I dose flourish, nitrogen, potassium, phosphates, and iron.
I just don't know how I can tell how much to dose of which, how often, etc. I'm just guessing blindly.
I know this is not an easy one to answer, but any help on dosing would be great.
I'm trying to figure out how much of my sechem stuff to dose. I have dry goods on order but it would be dumb not to use what I aleady spent my money on you see.
Anyway, I was dosing minimally, but given my high light and co2 (96 watts of T5HO and 24 ppm co2 it wouldn't be enough. But now with the higher doses I'm getting much more algae, so clearly the plants are not using it.
I dose flourish, nitrogen, potassium, phosphates, and iron.
I just don't know how I can tell how much to dose of which, how often, etc. I'm just guessing blindly.
I know this is not an easy one to answer, but any help on dosing would be great.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Hoppy thanks for repying
I am using both methods to try and get it as accurate as I can. I have a drop checker set up with 4dkh which sits at green, a bit on the yellow side, and I use the kh/ph test as well.
Now seachem recommends a certain amount 'once or twice per week or as needed', but should I do it every day as well as two or three times the amount?
As far as lighting goes there isn't too much I can do since I don't think 48 watts would cut it for what I am hoping to achieve. If I hung the lights up, say 2 feet above the tank that would effectively decrease the light right? is 2 feet too much?
I am using both methods to try and get it as accurate as I can. I have a drop checker set up with 4dkh which sits at green, a bit on the yellow side, and I use the kh/ph test as well.
Now seachem recommends a certain amount 'once or twice per week or as needed', but should I do it every day as well as two or three times the amount?
As far as lighting goes there isn't too much I can do since I don't think 48 watts would cut it for what I am hoping to achieve. If I hung the lights up, say 2 feet above the tank that would effectively decrease the light right? is 2 feet too much?
Thanks oldpunk, I think I'll do something similar. They mention flourish and trace on there, only trace, but my understanding is that trace is just a diluted version of flourish?? Also I've been doing daily doses of flourish, too much and causes of my algae issues?
Algae is generally caused by having too much light, and too little CO2, too little tank maintenance, too little fertilizing, all together. Too much fertilizer does not cause algae.
You mention that 48 watts of T5HO will not be enough for what you hope to achieve. What is that? And, what are the tank dimensions? I think you are badly underestimating how bright T5HO lights are.
About dosing the Seachem fertilizers. I know that table is for a low light tank. Typically a high light tank gets at least 3X as much fertilizers, so instead of dosing per he table, once a week, try dosing those amounts 3 times a week. No knowing any more about your tank setup I don't know what problems you will face whatever you do.
You mention that 48 watts of T5HO will not be enough for what you hope to achieve. What is that? And, what are the tank dimensions? I think you are badly underestimating how bright T5HO lights are.
About dosing the Seachem fertilizers. I know that table is for a low light tank. Typically a high light tank gets at least 3X as much fertilizers, so instead of dosing per he table, once a week, try dosing those amounts 3 times a week. No knowing any more about your tank setup I don't know what problems you will face whatever you do.
What is it you are trying to achieve, other than an algae farm?
lol, it's hard to get it all in here.
It's a standard 29 gallon (30"x12"x18")
I am trying to achieve a heavily planted aquarium of higher light plants (I know I have some lower light plants too which will not do so well, I'm not worried about them), and would like certain plants like my alternanthera reineckii which are not doing so hot to fill in and thrive. And of course I would like it to happen with minimal algae.
The thing is, I was dosing recommended amounts at first and had very light algae, and then I tripled the amount and while growth started to improve, algae also began to seriously accumulate - light and co2 being the same.
I agree I think I'm underestimating the light. Do you really think just 48 watts of lighting is enough to get what want? I'll remove a light if that's the case, but when I do the tank just appears so dim to me.
I've been keeping fish for 20 years and have lots of knowledge and experience with aquariums, and I have kept very simple low light tanks without anything extra with very simple plants. So I'm not new to the hobby, it just the first time I've attempted the serious planted tank and I have visions of grandeur lol.
All algae growth at this point is just plain green algae - no hair or other nuisance algae at all... so far.
It's a standard 29 gallon (30"x12"x18")
I am trying to achieve a heavily planted aquarium of higher light plants (I know I have some lower light plants too which will not do so well, I'm not worried about them), and would like certain plants like my alternanthera reineckii which are not doing so hot to fill in and thrive. And of course I would like it to happen with minimal algae.
The thing is, I was dosing recommended amounts at first and had very light algae, and then I tripled the amount and while growth started to improve, algae also began to seriously accumulate - light and co2 being the same.
I agree I think I'm underestimating the light. Do you really think just 48 watts of lighting is enough to get what want? I'll remove a light if that's the case, but when I do the tank just appears so dim to me.
I've been keeping fish for 20 years and have lots of knowledge and experience with aquariums, and I have kept very simple low light tanks without anything extra with very simple plants. So I'm not new to the hobby, it just the first time I've attempted the serious planted tank and I have visions of grandeur lol.
All algae growth at this point is just plain green algae - no hair or other nuisance algae at all... so far.
Before you increased the fertilizer dosage, the plants were limited in growth rate by the amount of phosphate and nitrate available. With that slow growth you had enough CO2. But, when you in increased the fertilize dosage, the plants probably became CO2 limited, and that usually leads to algae. Ideally you have enough of all of the nutrients to meet the needs of the plants to grow at the rate the light is driving them to grow at. If you dose per the EI method - the sticky on dosing methods - and keep the ppm of CO2 up to near the maximum the fish can tolerate, they you have a chance to have the maximum growth rate, and little or no algae. But, then the high growth rate of the plants leads to an excessive plant mass, that stops water circulation, and algae moves in. Using high light is a constant battle to stay ahead of the needs of the plants, the pruning needed, and the amount of CO2 that is needed.
Ok, so I just played around and it turned out one of my ballasts will run with just one bulb in it, so I'll continue along with 3 x 24w and see how that goes.
At least that chart gives me a guide to dosing frequency even if I need to figure out dosing. I'm thinking double dosing on that schedule, but excluding excel and trace and taking it from there.
At least that chart gives me a guide to dosing frequency even if I need to figure out dosing. I'm thinking double dosing on that schedule, but excluding excel and trace and taking it from there.
You should run 1.......maybe 2 bulbs.....this is a LOT of light for this sized tank.
CO2 is going to be tougher to eyeball.
Current and flow, good careful watching of the plants, fish, make sure you do this adjustment slow and progressively, never just wing the CO2, dead fish, etc will result.
Good current will help keep the O2 up.......many go too far and do not add enough circulation for the fish, they die due to low O2, then on top of that, someone adds too much CO2 due to impatience, it's a lethal mix.
More light = more CO2 demand also, so less will also mean less CO2 demand by the plants.
Regards,
Tom Barr
CO2 is going to be tougher to eyeball.
Current and flow, good careful watching of the plants, fish, make sure you do this adjustment slow and progressively, never just wing the CO2, dead fish, etc will result.
Good current will help keep the O2 up.......many go too far and do not add enough circulation for the fish, they die due to low O2, then on top of that, someone adds too much CO2 due to impatience, it's a lethal mix.
More light = more CO2 demand also, so less will also mean less CO2 demand by the plants.
Regards,
Tom Barr
It is always good to be reminded by this.You should run 1.......maybe 2 bulbs.....this is a LOT of light for this sized tank.
CO2 is going to be tougher to eyeball.
Current and flow, good careful watching of the plants, fish, make sure you do this adjustment slow and progressively, never just wing the CO2, dead fish, etc will result.
Good current will help keep the O2 up.......many go too far and do not add enough circulation for the fish, they die due to low O2, then on top of that, someone adds too much CO2 due to impatience, it's a lethal mix.
More light = more CO2 demand also, so less will also mean less CO2 demand by the plants.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Thanks, I have an eheim 2213 running crosswise across the tank and it's got very nice flow, with the spray bar a few inches under the surface facing upward to cause a gental ripple across the surface. Regardless of accuracy all tests show I've got good co2 happening, and the fish are doing great!
But you have algae. What you aren't understanding is that the high light you've pushed it to is creating an unrealistically high demand for co2 that you cannot keep up with. At your level of light, far beyond 30ppm would be needed.
I understand, that's why I said I removed a bulb a few posts up. I'm going to run 48 w for 10 hours per day and 72w for 6 hours and let it go for a while. I was looking around the 'your tanks' at t5ho setups and it seems this type of lighting routine is popular.
Some people are successful when they use extremely high light levels, probably due to good luck. If you find that you aren't one of those people, then consider cutting way down on the light.
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