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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have vallisneria a banana plant water sprite and dwarf hair grass running powerful light and co2 as well as liquid ferts. My water sprite looks pitiful the hair grass is slowly coming along. Is it time for root tabs?
Parameters are as follows
Gh 6-8
Kh2-4
Ph6.6
78F
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0-20
Tds 300
And sorry the fish like to be in photos



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What kind of lighting do you have? How many hours a day?

How are you injected CO2? How are you measuring your CO2?

What kind of fertilizer are you using? How much are you dosing?

How long have the plants been in the tank?
 

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Those seem like new plantings?

If so that may just be the plants going thru their adjustment period.

Here's a few other things that jumped out at me...

Is that Aquasoil or similar? If so how old?

Kh of 2-4 is actually a bit wide. If on the lower end I'd say your co2 is not enough. Assuming your ph measurement is midway through your cycle?

If you could post pH of completely degassed tank water (leave out for a day or 2 or aerate) and then pH after a couple hours of co2 on that would help a lot.

TDS seems a tad high? But if your kh/Gh is on the high end of your scale maybe fine. Any seiryu stone in there?

Really need to know what liquid Ferts you are using and how much on how big of a tank. But that also plays into what substrate you are using?


Ha! @jellopuddinpop beat me to it. :)

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok was at work here ya go
Hygger 12h light full spectrum (auto sunup-sunset-night-off)
Aqueon-
Plant food-supposed to be 20 ml but i had an alge explosion so i cut back a bit, iron&manganese 2ml
Plants put in feb26 2021
Fluval stratum substrate
20 gallon
Only lava rock
Co2 is a diy metal cylinder (acid+base) runs for 10h i have a fluval co2 checker always green
I will get a closer gh and kh when i remineralize i shoot for gh 5 and kh 2 i use seachem but will switch to salty shrimp when im out


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What conflict i had was the explosion of my banana plant and vallisneria but the others were slow i will post pics of when i got them



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Ok was at work here ya go
Hygger 12h light full spectrum (auto sunup-sunset-night-off)
Aqueon-
Plant food-supposed to be 20 ml but i had an alge explosion so i cut back a bit, iron&manganese 2ml
Plants put in feb26 2021
Fluval stratum substrate
20 gallon
Only lava rock
Co2 is a diy metal cylinder (acid+base) runs for 10h i have a fluval co2 checker always green
I will get a closer gh and kh when i remineralize i shoot for gh 5 and kh 2 i use seachem but will switch to salty shrimp when im out


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First take is that Aqueon Plant food is not a comprehensive plant fertilizer, contrary to their marketing. It doesn't have any Nitrates or Phosphates with small amounts of Potassium. They do say it's 0-0-1 on the bottle. And then you are dosing iron and manganese separate? Which is basically what the Aqueon does have so no wonder you had an algae explosion!

Still don't know how old the substrate is? If new then Potassium, maybe some Phosphorus and a good micro mix should be all that you need. In the future I would suggest looking in to something that is a little more comprehensive. Maybe something like Nilocg Thrive? Or even Seachem Comprehensive? Although I think you get a better bang for your buck with the Thrive line.

Who knows it still might be that those plants are transitioning as it hasn't been that long. Sometimes it takes awhile?

On your co2, the whole kh/ph measurements that you have got going on don't add up? Especially with Fluval Stratum in the mix. Your kh shouldn't be higher than 2 and with Fluval Stratum in the mix is probably lower which means that if your ph measurement of 6.6 is good the co2 concentration in the tank is nowhere near as high as you think it is. Whether that's enough depends on many things. Just something that caught my eye and might be worthwhile to explore? Maybe find out what your actual ph drop is as a check against your Fluval co2 checker? It's usually recommended that a 1.0 ph drop gives you adequate co2 but lately I've seen more and more recommend 1.2 atleast. Which is where I am at.

And I'll add a pic of my tank with how long I have my lights running just in case it helps. This tank has been up for roughly 1.5 yrs now. ONF Flat Nano+ on a 10gal tank. 4 hrs at 100%, 3 hrs at 50% or less. It ramps to zero over 30 minutes at both ends so really only 2 hrs at 50%.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Stratum was added a week b4 planting the tank so brand new when testing kh it turned color after the second drop so might be a kh 1-2 range i just went with 2 kind of arbitrary for us in the planted world needing exact numbers (using api) the plant food is made by aqueon and i know shame shame I couldn’t get anything in time for my plants arrival
To clarify my light is a hygger 22w 12hr auto ramps up and down


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I think you have 2 things going on.

First, the plants weren't planted all that long ago. A lot of plants we buy were grown in their emersed form, and will die back after being submerged. While that is happening, you should be seeing submerged growth starting, and that growth will be healthier.

Second, you're not fertilizing your plants completely. That Aqueon fertilizer doesn't contain Nitrogen or Phosphate, and only has a tiny amount of Potassium. If I were you, I would get my hands on a proper fertilizer. If you want to keep it simple, I recommend Thrive C from nilocg.

Thrive C All in One Liquid Fertilizer for Aquarium Plants | NilocG Aquatic Labs

Finally, I wouldn't be using that light in 24/7 mode at the beginning. I would keep the light on full blast, and control it with a wall timer to 8 hour days. You can have a "siesta" in the middle of the day if you want, to give more viewing time.
 

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I have started using the light on full
For fertilizer what about thrive s i do have shrimp in this tank or will thrive c be safe?


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I run Thrive S in my low tech tanks and it works fine there.

I was running Thrive S in my co2 tank (the one pictured) for awhile at 3x the recommended rate for micros. At that rate it provides roughly 14 ppm K, 1ppm Nitrate, 0.18 ppm Phosphate and 1ppm Fe per week. I was supplementing with dry Ferts to bump up NPK and I just switched back to csm+b.

Depending on your plants this may be enough? It's usually recommended to go higher with PO4 though. And I'm not sure if that would be enough K.

I think the fears for shrimp are largely unfounded although in tanks under 10 gal it might be more important. :)

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