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I bought one from PurelyH2O and am very happy with the product and the seller. Replacement cartridges are very reasonably priced as well. I would recommend getting the permeate pump that is optional as it will increase membrane efficiency and reduce water wastage ...
 

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Otter,
What do you plan on using it for? I may be able to help you out.
 

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Air Water Ice & Buckeye are some of the higher quality ones that reefers use. FilterDirect is also a big one people buy...it's cheaper, but the resin cartridge is also mounted horizontally (not very efficient).
 

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I am not a DI fan but here is a good one. http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1COMPACT
I ended up using his carbon and sediment filters on my system. I would recommend getting a flush valve. Here is the thread on mine for ideas:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/37957-ro-water-system.html
I updated this setup to a 100 gpd with an additional carbon filter and a different flush valve/restrictor from airwaterice, info is at the end of this thread:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/41281-remodeling-my-fish-room.html
Keep in mind that shutting off a RO system increases its TDS output when restarted, sometimes getting a lower gpd output works out better depend on your water usage.......DC
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My biggest concern is the wasted water, I live in a very small growing town, and they keep jacking up the water rates to build a new water tower and treatment plant. I've read that it takes 10 gallons to make one gallon of RO water. Plus, in our podunk town they charge us sewer for all water usage... even if it doesn't go down the drain... so that much wasted water would be that much more expensive. Is it possible to relcaim the waste water to water the grass at least? Or can it run through the RO system again?
How many stages should I be looking at?
Do I need the DI functionality?
Thanks for the input so far!
 

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My biggest concern is the wasted water, I live in a very small growing town, and they keep jacking up the water rates to build a new water tower and treatment plant. I've read that it takes 10 gallons to make one gallon of RO water. Plus, in our podunk town they charge us sewer for all water usage... even if it doesn't go down the drain... so that much wasted water would be that much more expensive. Is it possible to relcaim the waste water to water the grass at least? Or can it run through the RO system again?
How many stages should I be looking at?
Do I need the DI functionality?
Thanks for the input so far!
DI functionality is probably not needed in a planted tank. My RO unit came with a DI that I used until it was used up. TDS out of RO should be less than 20 or so. That's a great improvement of tap from around here in the 200's. Some of that stuff is needed by our plants anyway ... some traces etc. So a small amount won't hurt. DI is mostly for reefers that want to reconstitute water very specifically and need to start out with only pure water. I don't care if my RO puts out 5 or 25 TDS water, because I don't think my plants (or fish) will care.

I bought a five stage unit but will be cutting that back down to four. Prefilter micron sediment cartridge, prefilter carbon block, RO, postfilter carbon block. If you have chloramine in your water, you should have one GAC (granular activated carbon) cartridge before the RO membrane. You should find this out if you plan on using water straight out of the unit into the tank without something like Prime. I don't have chloramine in my tap. PurelyH20 and Buckeye Field Supply can help you configure a unit for chloramine removal.

In regards to the wasted water, the permeate pump will help, as I mentioned above, and is a simple improvement. A booster pump will also help improve membrane efficiency if your line pressure is less than 70-80psi. Apparently a lower psi will result in more wasted water per volume of permeate (produced clean water). You can also do whatever you want with the waste water. It comes out of the unit with some force and usually via a 1/4" polyethylene hard plastic line. You can run it into a barrel outside and then use it for your garden. I think there is a means of plumbing it into your main home water line also, for use in your house for whatever, but I don't want that water for drinking water, etc. as it would be even harder than pure tap.

Anyways ... good night ...
 

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I'm ready to invest in a good RODI system. I need some recommendations though, like which brand/model, installation tips, etc.
Here's one from ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-10...099068554QQcategoryZ20684QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Dan O
Some things you'll likely appreciate in a new system:
clear housings
Filmtec membrane
pressure gauge
lcd thermometer
full size, vertical, refillable DI resin cartridge
no carbon after the DI
aluminum bracket
an American vendor
high quality prefilters
high quality DI resin
good instructions

Russ @ BFS
 

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Re waste water - your system should produce about 4 parts waste water to 1 part purified water. It is the RO stage that requires this waste water (really better thought of as flush water).

And yes - you sure can put it to use. Run it to your washing machine, flower garden, vegetable garden, swimming pool, etc.

Russ @ BFS
 

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Russ gave you a great list here. As you'll see it closely matched the one I sent you via PM. Basically, there are a lot of cheap units floating around out there with 5+ stages of total @&#$. You shouldn't need 300 prefilters, carbons, or taste removers attached to your unit if the vendors gave you quality. There is a reason the serious reefers purchase the big bucks units vs. the e-bay specials.

Good luck in your search. It's not hard to find quality units, but e-bay ain't the place. I used to work in a top-notch marine specialty store in FL. and I can't tell you how many customers came in to the store, looked at the $ of our units and simply went home to shop on e-bay for units similar to the one you pulled up. Well, needless to say, they came back eventually and purchased one from us as well :icon_lol:

Some things you'll likely appreciate in a new system:
clear housings
Filmtec membrane
pressure gauge
lcd thermometer
full size, vertical, refillable DI resin cartridge
no carbon after the DI
aluminum bracket
an American vendor
high quality prefilters
high quality DI resin
good instructions

Russ @ BFS
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Excellent... thanks for the info guys. I'll be looking to get one soon, so I'll be in touch. Thanks!
 

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Why is that? (Thanks for the links)
I was initially looking to get a RO/DI until it was explained to me that I did not need lab grade water to raise any fish, even Altums. Additionally, a DI bed needs recharged which is a recurring cost, depending on how much water you use that could be significant.

If you have really good water pressure you can piggy back 2 membranes to save on waste water. The waste water from the first membrane is routed into the second membrane. I was going to try this by piggy backing 2 50 gpd membranes on my system to boost output (50 gpd was not keeping up with my needs) but decided to just upgrade to 100 gpd.

I started a thread at Simply Discus, I would suggest you spend some time in their water works forum it is full of good info. Here is a link to my thread there http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?t=55487 ......DC
 

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With two membranes plumbed in series (waste water from the first to the "in" port of the second), treat the membranes as a single, long membrane. Use a single flow restrictor sized to give you 4 parts waste to 1 part permeate.

Russ @ BFS
 

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I bought my RO/DI system from Airwaterice as they were running a sale at the time and I just could not pass up the price. It came with the flush valves, pressure gage, clear housings, TDS/Temp probe, DI bypass to fill water jugs for drinking, automatic shut off valve, and a flow restrictor.


At current rate, I get 4.5 to 5 waste for every 1 gallon of good water. Not to bad considering my input water has a TDS of 300! :icon_eek: With a chloramine content of 3.0!

No, I dont drink the local water folks, dont ask!

After the RO, the TDS is down to 26-29 with an ammonia content left of 1.0. This is very nice, as the DI side does not have to "mop up" as much as it would have to if I just had a DI cartridge.

If my water temp drops below 50 psi, I do not attempt to make water as it will waste even more. I plan on converting it some day to the dual RO membranes, and at this point I know I will have to get the pre-pump to boost it up.

With the dual RO membranes, and running the PSI up to 70, in theory I should get 2 gallons wasted for every 1 gallon made.

All things said, I am very happy with my unit. Since I've had it, my fish have been happier too!
 

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I bought my RO/DI system from Airwaterice as they were running a sale at the time and I just could not pass up the price. It came with the flush valves, pressure gage, clear housings, TDS/Temp probe, DI bypass to fill water jugs for drinking, automatic shut off valve, and a flow restrictor.


At current rate, I get 4.5 to 5 waste for every 1 gallon of good water. Not to bad considering my input water has a TDS of 300! :icon_eek: With a chloramine content of 3.0!

No, I dont drink the local water folks, dont ask!

After the RO, the TDS is down to 26-29 with an ammonia content left of 1.0. This is very nice, as the DI side does not have to "mop up" as much as it would have to if I just had a DI cartridge.

If my water temp drops below 50 psi, I do not attempt to make water as it will waste even more. I plan on converting it some day to the dual RO membranes, and at this point I know I will have to get the pre-pump to boost it up.

With the dual RO membranes, and running the PSI up to 70, in theory I should get 2 gallons wasted for every 1 gallon made.

All things said, I am very happy with my unit. Since I've had it, my fish have been happier too!
Don't plan on reducing your waste water by running two membrane in series - it doesn't work that way.

One thing you can do to reduce waste is use an adjustable flow restrictor, or keep two capillary flow restrictors - each trimmed to length to handle summer water temperatures or winter water temps, respectively.

Russ
 
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