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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back story i have an eheim pro 3 2075 attached to a rex grigg reactor, the eheim is a little more than 3 years old. Last year i moved and stored the eheim away for a year, then finally got it going again. I remember what a female dog it is to prime, but initially i didnt have a problem starting it then i do a water change yesterday and clean out the filter and it took me about 6 hrs to get going again. What methods does everyone use to get their pumps to prime again when connected to the rex grigg?
 

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Little guesswork here? I'm betting there is a loop of tubing going up and down that traps water in the reactor or some spot along the tubing.
Look it over and try this idea. When there is water in the tubing from the canister up to the tank, it can block more water from running down to fill. I have my reactor on a 2217 and on the line from canister to the tank. (filter output?) To get mine reprimed, I turn the reactor bottom up and watch as the water coming in from the tank pushes the water and air out. Once I get the air /water clear so that ALL the lines and the canister are full, I plug in and it pumps.
I think what you are finding is there is a certain amount of air in the top of the canister where the pump sets and since the impeller won't pump air, only water, it keeps things from working.
Second guess might be that one of the O-rings on the grey plastic is leaking air and too much is going down to the pump. Any chance they dried out while stored? A bit of Vasoline or house brand petroleum jelly rubbed on to lube them might fix things if that seems right. What we call petroleum is no actual petroleum any more so no harm in it getting around the water. Actually in some of the Eheim manuals.
 

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still don't understand why people have trouble priming EHEIM canisters

just siphon water right through it until all the air is out, connect the rest of the output hose, turn back on...
 

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still don't understand why people have trouble priming EHEIM canisters

just siphon water right through it until all the air is out, connect the rest of the output hose, turn back on...
This can be awkward to do when we have a reactor inline and don't remove the tubing from the tank. In my case, it would be a half hour project to remove and replace the tubing due to the canopy and location against a wall. I've left the reactor strapped loosly so it can be tilted to drain the air and water. Just works better in my setup.
It is not a defect in any specific brand of filter when we add things like reactors that change the design. That is when we need to study what is happening and adapt what we do when we make mods to a system like canisters.
On my canisters that I have not modified, I find no problems with priming if I follow the directions. I feel it is just part of the decision when we do things. We also have to accept any trouble we cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
still don't understand why people have trouble priming EHEIM canisters

just siphon water right through it until all the air is out, connect the rest of the output hose, turn back on...
I only have trouble priming it with the rex grigg on, did u mean siphon it from the rex grigg then connect everything else or straight from the filter outlet? I have lily pipes as well and im a little ocd about the squareness of it on theaquarium thats why i like to have everything connected so everything is as close to 90 deg angles
 

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I see this as just a bit of trouble we can throw in but then a little thought on what I see happening may help. I think both my way or Klibs way will do the same thing. Just different ways because of the different ways we each have our tanks and equipment?
The directions say to start the re-prime with both the canister and the outflow tube to the tank empty but the inflow from the tank full. When we are set that way, the water runs down to the canister and siphons more from the tank. It fill the can from bottom to top, forcing any air in front of the water until the water levels out at the level of the tank water. With a good light, you can look through the side of the can and see this working and then see it go up the outgoing tube. This leaves the canister full of water and the pump can then move the water. If we don't get the air out of the pump impeller, it can't pump air.
Where I think things go wrong when we add the reactor is the amount of water in the reactor. The only think working is the pressure of the water coming down the tube and that is less water than already in the reactor. Little water can't push big water? With that water blocking the path, the air can't move out of the canister so some water does run down the tube and kind of fills the canister but leaves the pump and tubing holding lots of air. You can see this if you hold a good light next to the can while it fills.

Two solutions? One is to siphon or drain the water out and air out of the reactor and canister as Klibs mentions or you can tip the reactor up so that the air can pass the water in the reactor. Any method to get all the air out and get it totally filled with water will do the same. Some say they can get by with filling the canister before putting the lid back on but I've never been able to keep water in the head enough to cover the impeller so that doesn't work for me.

My reason for tilting the reactor is that I have a canopy and would have a lot of trouble to get the tubing off the back of the tank and laid down so I could drain it into a bucket or such. Never tried sucking on the tubes to clear it but I would think not for me.

I've built several reactors and each has been just a bit different. This one has a flat bottom so that it can set flat on the floor without much tight strapping to hold it. This requires an elbow at the bottom but I was willing to lose a bit of flow to do what I wanted. With the flat bottom, I can strap the top and still leave it easy to tip it to let the water and air out.

This is my reactor and strap. It actually is working on a 2217 that is out of the picture to the right of the 2075 you see. Loose at the bottom and tips easy to drain/fill.

 

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I think both my way or Klibs way will do the same thing. Just different ways because of the different ways we each have our tanks and equipment?.....Some say they can get by with filling the canister before putting the lid back on but I've never been able to keep water in the head enough to cover the impeller so that doesn't work for me.

Klibs way is the way many hobbyists prime their eheims. The key is to eliminate all the air you can, prior to hooking it up and plugging it in.


Also, if you keep your co2 reactor separate from the canister filter with double-tap connectors (before and after the reactor), you can isolate the reactor and it'll not lose its siphon while you do your maintenance on the canister. Should the reactor get filled with air you can simply remove it (by the double taps) and fill it with tank water manually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advise, next time i get in there ill make sure to try those out, im def guilty of leaving water in the reactor and trying to start it up with the pump full of water
 

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I don't have trouble with air getting in the reactor but water being left in it. The water standing in the reactor blocks the air, trapping it in the canister so that it can't let more water siphon down from the tank. If the water were above the air, the air would go up and out through the water but with the reactor lower than the air, the air is trapped as it will not go down to then find a way up. I don't know of any Grigg's style reactors that have the water entering at the bottom, though. A lot of the difference in how we each need to work is due to the difference in the way our tanks and equipment is set. It leaves us each needing to look and decide the what and why of our problem.
 
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