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I'm about to order a custom built RO unit based up a spec I drew up from various Planted/Reef forums. Thought I'd run it by the folk here in case I'm missing anything or getting something wrong:

1 x 1 Micron Sediment Filter
1 x Pentek Chlorplus Carbon Filter
1 x 700ml Deionisation stage 10”
2 x Axeon 150gpd membranes (Formerly RO-Ultratec) membrane (American company).
1 x Membrane Flush Kit
1 x HM Digital DM2 Inline TDS meter
1 x Pressure Gauge with Stem Run Tee on inlet to RO membrane housing
1 x Spare set of filters consisting of (1 x 1 Micron Sediment Filter, 1 x Pentek Chlorplus Carbon Filter, 1 x 1 Litre DI resin).
1 x HM Digital 240ppm TDS calibration fluid.
1 x Self Regulating Booster pump and transformer (to get full production rates and less waste water for volume produced).
3 x Spare Ball Valves for locking in membrane housing when not in use.
1 x Auto shutoff kit
1 x High pressure switch
 

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With 2 150GPD membranes you will need a booster pump as the system will require atleast 65PSI through the membranes to function. I've got a similar setup that is setup for 300GPD.

Craig
 

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I'm about to order a custom built RO unit based up a spec I drew up from various Planted/Reef forums. Thought I'd run it by the folk here in case I'm missing anything or getting something wrong:

1 x 1 Micron Sediment Filter
1 x Pentek Chlorplus Carbon Filter
1 x 700ml Deionisation stage 10”
2 x Axeon 150gpd membranes (Formerly RO-Ultratec) membrane (American company).
1 x Membrane Flush Kit
1 x HM Digital DM2 Inline TDS meter
1 x Pressure Gauge with Stem Run Tee on inlet to RO membrane housing
1 x Spare set of filters consisting of (1 x 1 Micron Sediment Filter, 1 x Pentek Chlorplus Carbon Filter, 1 x 1 Litre DI resin).
1 x HM Digital 240ppm TDS calibration fluid.
1 x Self Regulating Booster pump and transformer (to get full production rates and less waste water for volume produced).
3 x Spare Ball Valves for locking in membrane housing when not in use.
1 x Auto shutoff kit
1 x High pressure switch
Some comments for you:
if you have chloramines, you'll want two carbon block prefilters. If you don't have chloramines, you can get a 0.5 mic (20,000 gallon) block for a better price than the block you're suggesting.

Can't tell if you are thinking of running the membranes in parallel or series - either way a standard Aquatec 8800 pump won't be sufficient.

HM Digital doesn't make a 240 ppm calibration fluid (We're an HM Master Distributor).

You may be less than happy with a 300 gpd system and a standard hydraulic shut off valve. If it we're me I'd go with a shut off solinoid that wires in with your pump. Much more reliable.

Make sure you plumb in your pump after the prefilters, but before the pressure gauge.

Make sure you get a liquid filled pressure gauge - the pump will destroy a dry gauge in short order.

Couldn't tell from the order in which you listed things - but make sure your DI stage is after the RO membrane(s).

Make sure you use a refillable DI stage. I would probably go with a larger DI stage or more than one 10" x 2.5" given the amount of RO water you'll be pushing through - especially if you have chloramines.

Russ
 

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300 GPD capability and more, seems a tad much for a hobbyist. It might be that I'm a minimalist at heart, KISS is my creed.
Perhaps for you, but if I were going to use RO/DI, 300 gpd would not allow me to do 50% changes on all of my tanks in one day.

Craigthor uses a 300gpd system so he can fill directly into his tank, rather than hassle with a holding tank.

That is the way I would do it as well, if I had a big tank that was the only one getting used on it.
 

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Perhaps for you, but if I were going to use RO/DI, 300 gpd would not allow me to do 50% changes on all of my tanks in one day.

Craigthor uses a 300gpd system so he can fill directly into his tank, rather than hassle with a holding tank.

That is the way I would do it as well, if I had a big tank that was the only one getting used on it.
Exactly why I did mine that way. No mess and no holding tank/s which keeps the wife happy. That is always a must.

Craig
 

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I'm looking at a 75 gpd unit with a gravity fed holding tank, the way I understand it slower equals better rejection rates, but my garage is connected to my man/fish cave by 2 walls so I have easy access via a drill bit.

I can certainly understand wanting a faster unit when refills require running & removing hoses etc. from your living space, I was going to go that route and need 62.5 gallons per water change which equals 5 hours of refill on only one tank with a 300 gpd unit, but I have 2 other diy tanks planned one is small at 12 gallons and the other over 250, so I'd be changing water half the week, so it took me a while to come around on the holding tank and I'm glad I waited because with some creative plumbing it will be very fast on the drain & fill with my largest problem being water temp in the holding tank.

But in just a couple posts several folks have found flaws in your build and it's over my head so I don't have any build suggestions except this, I would call bulkreefsupply & thefilterguys plus any other good retailers that have a detailed background in setting up systems. Even if you don't have chloramines you might need that filter to make a smaller one last longer or you might have water that requires dual DI filters and refillable DI would seem to be the way to go, but I would ask several people and then weed it out before buying. Good luck on your new system.
 
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